Jump to content
SAU Community

Power Loss On Downshifts, Bouncing Idle And Slight Hesitation At Specific Rev Point -R34Gtt


Recommended Posts

Adjusted my cas to 20degs base timing with TPS connected- see how it drives tomorrow.

I can't believe you haven't specified in that sentence s what timing the power fc was displaying! (Actually I can believe it)

  • Like 1

Me too. But thats where the cas was before, and also when I did the belt early this year thats where I set it at 15 but had Nistune. Remember this is 20degs now with TPS connected as suggested by some of you this morning (since power fc). TPS disconnected reads 25ish.

Funny thing when I disconnected TPS then reconnected with engine running it went to 15 instead of 20. Then turn engine off, tighten nuts, then engine on and it went back to 20. Very sensitive to even slight taps of rotation.

Edited by rondofj

Isn't this why some tuners turn the CAS all the way advanced or retarded and then compensate for it in the ECU? So people can't just spin it willy-nilly and adjust the timing?

Seriously? Do you not get it yet?

What the power fc says it is putting out at idle is what the cas should be set at. You need to check that.

No way slightly tapping the cas or doing up the bolts moves it by 5 degrees. Unless you are totally ham fisted. It's the power fc putting out different timing. Not the cas moving. Unless ofcourse you are completely undoing all the cas bolts while adjusting them which is just bad practice .

This thread us unreal. Just the recap you aren't bothered with the one initial problem in the the thread only because you caused another more serious issue.....

Edited by Ben C34

Isn't this why some tuners turn the CAS all the way advanced or retarded and then compensate for it in the ECU? So people can't just spin it willy-nilly and adjust the timing?

Who knows. But the amount of guys doing random shit with the hand controllers is surely concerning to them. Now I know why tuners lock their tunes.

FFS Ronald a month later and 18 pages of nonsense! Give up and get the car to some kent who knows what he's doing! ;)

I know/understand you're a tight kent & can also understand that you are trying to learn/troubleshoot on your ride but the money you have lost in bad fuel economy probably could have paid to have had your car sorted by now!

Edited by Mick_o

Who knows. But the amount of guys doing random shit with the hand controllers is surely concerning to them. Now I know why tuners lock their tunes.

thats what i'd call lazy tuning.... 'edit' took the wrong quote....meant to respond to this one. Isn't this why some tuners turn the CAS all the way advanced or retarded and then compensate for it in the ECU? So people can't just spin it willy-nilly and adjust the timing?

Edited by Badgaz

Seriously? Do you not get it yet?

What the power fc says it is putting out at idle is what the cas should be set at. You need to check that.

No way slightly tapping the cas or doing up the bolts moves it by 5 degrees. Unless you are totally ham fisted. It's the power fc putting out different timing. Not the cas moving. Unless ofcourse you are completely undoing all the cas bolts while adjusting them which is just bad practice .

This thread us unreal. Just the recap you aren't bothered with the one initial problem in the the thread only because you caused another more serious issue.....

You seriously sound like your on your monthly periods sometimes..while other times you can be helpful,...I have seen your posts on other threads..and seen others give you a bit of a rub-down...

Lol....and life goes on. Let me play with my car and you play with yours right? If you can help then you can be sure its appreciated, if you start having your periods then I might just ignore ;-

You seriously sound like your on your monthly periods sometimes..while other times you can be helpful,...I have seen your posts on other threads..and seen others give you a bit of a rub-down...

Lol....and life goes on. Let me play with my car and you play with yours right? If you can help then you can be sure its appreciated, if you start having your periods then I might just ignore ;-

I think he is trying to be helpful by stopping you from blowing up your engine.

  • Like 1

FFS Ronald a month later and 18 pages of nonsense! Give up and get the car to some kent who knows what he's doing! ;)

I know/understand you're a tight kent & can also understand that you are trying to learn/troubleshoot on your ride but the money you have lost in bad fuel economy probably could have paid to have had your car sorted by now!

Mick I dont really care about the bad economy as long as I'm learning stuff and am able to fix it myself sometime, that is highly satisfactory to me. Even if it goes backwards n costs more in the long run. Part of the fun is learning, DIYs, fixing, enjoying, for me that is. Does that still make me a tight kent??

You seriously sound like your on your monthly periods sometimes..while other times you can be helpful,...I have seen your posts on other threads..and seen others give you a bit of a rub-down...

Lol....and life goes on. Let me play with my car and you play with yours right? If you can help then you can be sure its appreciated, if you start having your periods then I might just ignore ;-

Calm down champ. Read back over what I have written, if you have the time.

This thread is really interesting and gets funnier as it goes on. Any moment now you are likely to pop your engine..

You say you want to learn about your car and buy tools etc, but won't buy a wideband and datalog it which is mandatory if you want to actually achieve anything rather than just taking wild guesses.

Remember the part where I said if your afm is dodgy your car is tuned for it? Do you get what I mean by that? If you did actually try someone else's afm you could very well kill your engine if not monitoring afr's.

Anyway man, keep this thread alive. Its interesting to See how long untill you either fix the actual issue or kill the engine.

Well I hope persistence pays off for ya son before you pull the pin and throw the grenade on that 25 :)

Mick I dont really care about the bad economy as long as I'm learning stuff and am able to fix it myself sometime, that is highly satisfactory to me. Even if it goes backwards n costs more in the long run. Part of the fun is learning, DIYs, fixing, enjoying, for me that is. Does that still make me a tight kent??

Who knows. But the amount of guys doing random shit with the hand controllers is surely concerning to them. Now I know why tuners lock their tunes.

This is exactly why I do not have a hand controller for my PFC

  • Like 1

Im glad I do have the controller- learnt a lot of stuff- if it blows then it blows, its not a Porsche, another 3-5k will have an RB25/30 sitting under the hood with a whole lot of lifetime knowledge n experience : win

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
    • It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
    • I've seen tunes from big name workshops with cars making in excess of 700kW and one thing that stood out to me, is that noone is bothering with torque management. Everyone is throwing in as much timing as the motor can take for a pull. Sure that yields pretty numbers on a dyno, but it's not keeping these motors together for more than a few squirts down the straight without blowing coolant or head gaskets. If tuners, paid a bit more attention and took timing out in the mid range, managed boost a bit better, you'll probably see less motors grenading. Not to name names, or anything like that, but I've seen a tune, from a pretty wild GT-R from a big name tuner and I was but perplexed on the amount of timing jammed into it. You would have expected a quite a bit less timing at peak torque versus near the limiter, but there was literally 3 degrees of difference. Sure you want to make as much as possible throughout the RPM range, but why? At the expense of blowing motors? Anyhow I think we've gone off topic enough once again lol.
    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
    • Dort sounds above 3k rpm are dorty 🤣 I might krinkle black the alloy 🤔
×
×
  • Create New...