Power Loss On Downshifts, Bouncing Idle And Slight Hesitation At Specific Rev Point -R34Gtt

[Badgaz]

Yep what Ben and gtsboy say.... This is what I originally said a few pages back when I was looking through a log.

[rondofj]

I would have agreed with that (Ben) as well, thats how I always set my timing before - pfc commander always shows 15 degrees hot idle - I set it at 20 (on harmonic balancer) now cos thats what it used to drive like before and thats where the bolts on cas / my marker was. Before taking it off.

Could be my timing gun is off or actual cam timing belt has skipped >> screwdriver test thru sparkplug hole with engine at TDC. Faaark do I have to take off fan and rad again (to turn engine manually). So hard to get to fan bolts.

Edited September 9, 2014 by rondofj

[hy_rpm]

No you can get to the crank pulley bolt from underneath the shroud

Maybe you should take the top timing cover off and put the crank on tdc mark and take a photo of where your cam pulleys are at

[Ben C34]

Yep what Ben and gtsboy say.... This is what I originally said a few pages back when I was looking through a log.

It's been said multiple times by multiple people!

Ron, are you using a lead or the wire loop that never works correctly method with your timing gun?

[rondofj]

lead to no1 plug that works correctly of course

[Ben C34]

lead to no1 plug that works correctly of course

So to clarify.

A plug lead in between no 1 coil and plug. As in remove the coil and put a plug lead onto it, then plug that onto the plug?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Doesn't mean it doesn't exist. Just not adjustable perhaps.

However I do remember there's a 2D table water temp (static) vs. Ignition trim.

By default all the values are 0 on FC Edit.

This is why I mentioned half a dozen times you need a data logit kit to make sense of this

[rondofj]

So to clarify.

A plug lead in between no 1 coil and plug. As in remove the coil and put a plug lead onto it, then plug that onto the plug?

yeh exactly, dont see how else it could be done - and the gun goes off that in-between lead

[rondofj]

Heres where it gets interesting,... a diagram !

[hy_rpm]

How so interesting ?

That pic is how it should be done if the pickup at the rear is no good

Which is most of the time

Why don't you just get a proper mechanic to check you cam timing and set the base timing

I'm sure Unigroup wouldn't charge you more than $100 to set it and check it

As it has already took you how long and to set it and still it's not right

$100 is worth the less headache and unreliable grenade engine if it's taken on the track and pinging hard

[rondofj]

I drew up that pic quickly to demonstrate how I always set my timing lol

Edited September 9, 2014 by rondofj

[XKLABA]

I just open the slide on the pickup and hold it against the back of No1 coil

[rondofj]

^^me needs to try this to see what variation I get

[rondofj]

Wow just did this- timing gun straight off no1 coil wire (no in-between leads) and it shows 15 on both harmonic balancer AND PFC commander! Disconnect TPS and it shows 21 on PFC AND harmonic balancer. No

f#%^king around with the CAS or anything. I had set it dead correct back then.

Running straight off coil wire is easier but not stable it shows timing then goes blank, shows timing then blank every 3-4 secs. With in-between lead its rock steady timing displayed.

Thats it no more stuffing around with timing, it was proper after all.

Edited September 9, 2014 by rondofj

[Ben C34]

I just open the slide on the pickup and hold it against the back of No1 coil

I find it odd that you want the best possible o2 sensor mounted as close as possible to the engine, but set the timing using that method that seems pretty half arsed. Have you compared it to using a lead in between?

[Ben C34]

Wow just did this- timing gun straight off no1 coil wire (no in-between leads) and it shows 15 on both harmonic balancer AND PFC commander! Disconnect TPS and it shows 21 on PFC AND harmonic balancer. No

f#%^king around with the CAS or anything. I had set it dead correct back then.

Running straight off coil wire is easier but not stable it shows timing then goes blank, shows timing then blank every 3-4 secs. With in-between lead its rock steady timing displayed.

Thats it no more stuffing around with timing, it was proper after all.ImageUploadedBySAU Community1410255281.384884.jpgImageUploadedBySAU Community1410255302.376683.jpg

What do you mean straight off the wire?

[rondofj]

What XKLABA said. The gun connected straight onto no1 coil wire/lead that comes from loom. Coil still sitting directly on plug, no in-between lead

Edited September 9, 2014 by rondofj

[XKLABA]

I find it odd that you want the best possible o2 sensor mounted as close as possible to the engine, but set the timing using that method that seems pretty half arsed. Have you compared it to using a lead in between?

Lol, yeah bit weird, have tried it and tested that method over 10 year ago when setting the cam gears on the 32, there is no manual timing adjustment on the 34, Ross trigger wheel, I mathematically worked out what the timing mark on the 34 was which was then checked by Scott to be spot on and the rest is done by the Syvecs

I want the O2 where I want it because it will send its signal directly to the Syvecs and not to a gauge on the dash, and the closer I can get it to the engine the sooner the ECU will get an idea of what is happening in the engine, and yes I know how long it will take for the gas to move 1m down the exhaust and don't care, an engine spinning at 7000rpm does a lot in that time

Plus I have two ports filled with O2 sensors not getting used so may as well use them

The sensors I have ordered are NTK LZA09-E1s which are OEM sensors for the hypo Hondas which is what the Syvecs is pre programmed for

[XKLABA]

What XKLABA said. The gun connected straight onto no1 coil wire/lead that comes from loom. Coil still sitting directly on plug, no in-between lead

Um no, hold it against the white bit on the side of the coil oppersite the plug, the pick up will pick up the coil firing

[rondofj]

Woot, on that flat smoky whitish face of the coil...