Power Loss On Downshifts, Bouncing Idle And Slight Hesitation At Specific Rev Point -R34Gtt

[Ben C34]

Cheers for the explanation XKLABA.

Ron, I can't see how when using the plug lead method you don't get an accurate reading. That's exactly how the timing guns are designed to work.

[XGTRX]

Hmmmm

[XKLABA]

  On 09/09/2014 at 10:06 AM, rondofj said:

Woot, on that flat smoky whitish face of the coil...

Yeah, that bit, directly behind that whitish stuff is the part of the coil that makes the spark and the pick up in the light will pick up the coil firing

[XKLABA]

  On 09/09/2014 at 10:07 AM, Ben C34 said:

Cheers for the explanation XKLABA.

Ron, I can't see how when using the plug lead method you don't get an accurate reading. That's exactly how the timing guns are designed to work.

This is right I just got lazy and didn't want to do that every time i set the timing after removing the Cas, adjusting the cam gear the replacing Cas set timing taking car for drive then repeat

I think he meant the wire loop in the harness ?

[rondofj]

OK just did what xklaba does - inductive pickup straight off no1 coil front face - 20-21 degrees on PFC commander AND harmonic balancer, so all good- this is the easiest n best method! Timings higher cos cars colder at 61 degrees water temp

[rondofj]

The first time some weeks ago I didnt check the commander when setting cas to display 20 on harmonic balancer, I just assumed it would be 15 as thats what the idle always is on a hot engine, silly me didn't realize that on a slightly colder engine the commander would most likely have been displaying 20. And because 15 is the stock base timing that cemented the thought it WOULD be 15 displayed

Edited September 9, 2014 by rondofj

[roy8532]

  On 09/09/2014 at 10:07 AM, Ben C34 said:

Cheers for the explanation XKLABA.

Ron, I can't see how when using the plug lead method you don't get an accurate reading. That's exactly how the timing guns are designed to work.

Dont worry, you won't understand it anyways.

[Ben C34]

  On 09/09/2014 at 9:10 PM, roy8532 said:

Dont worry, you won't understand it anyways.

Haha. Thanks for your concern.

[GTSBoy]

Who is that cretin?

[Ben C34]

  On 09/09/2014 at 10:17 PM, GTSBoy said:

Who is that cretin?

Cmon Bro, don't clog Rons thread. It's doing a fine job on its own.

If you want to have a chat do it via the PM I sent you, don't be a hero on here.

Ben

[rondofj]

Timings done n dusted. Fuel economy with new O2 sensor = 21l/100kms, same driving pattern as usual nothing new.

Wideband with gauge on agenda, will that do on its own? Not wanting to get a datalogit etc, dont even have a laptop lolz but can borrow one. Option 2 is take to Unigroup n get an AFR log on dyno. Which is the better option?

[Badgaz]

Dyno diagnostic is much better

[Ben C34]

Ron. Please address the bov return into the intake pipe before going back onto the dyno!

[XGTRX]

^^^^ nah not important he he he

[rondofj]

Any other opinions on getting an afr log at the dyno vs getting own wideband with gauge?

And that intake pipe mods not happening, I've said that a few times already. For now that is

[scotty nm35]

27 pages of crap and you still refuse to fix the actual fault?

[Piggaz]

^^^

This. This is painful to read. Take it to a farken tuner!!!

[rondofj]

Haha. Tuner will be seeing it soon. And what do u mean by actual fault Scotty? Fault of the temp power loss during shifts? Yep the bov entry could be the fault of that..but who cares..not worth fixing somethin that accounts for barely 2% of my driving.

On a different note, see pics of my tacho/speedo combo in 5th, diff looks stock as far as I know and stock box of course. Something we spoke about once- pics to put it to rest.

[XGTRX]

But that's what the whole topic was about! But now you know how to fix it, you don't want to fix it because now it's not a problem. Hmmmm at least you're consistent. You're funny.

[rondofj]

Is that what the whole topic was about? Really.. Have you even read all the other problems n nigglings that have been fixed now? Now whos funny? Lol