Jump to content
SAU Community

Power Loss On Downshifts, Bouncing Idle And Slight Hesitation At Specific Rev Point -R34Gtt


Recommended Posts

Adjusted my cas to 20degs base timing with TPS connected- see how it drives tomorrow.

I can't believe you haven't specified in that sentence s what timing the power fc was displaying! (Actually I can believe it)

  • Like 1

Me too. But thats where the cas was before, and also when I did the belt early this year thats where I set it at 15 but had Nistune. Remember this is 20degs now with TPS connected as suggested by some of you this morning (since power fc). TPS disconnected reads 25ish.

Funny thing when I disconnected TPS then reconnected with engine running it went to 15 instead of 20. Then turn engine off, tighten nuts, then engine on and it went back to 20. Very sensitive to even slight taps of rotation.

Edited by rondofj

Isn't this why some tuners turn the CAS all the way advanced or retarded and then compensate for it in the ECU? So people can't just spin it willy-nilly and adjust the timing?

Seriously? Do you not get it yet?

What the power fc says it is putting out at idle is what the cas should be set at. You need to check that.

No way slightly tapping the cas or doing up the bolts moves it by 5 degrees. Unless you are totally ham fisted. It's the power fc putting out different timing. Not the cas moving. Unless ofcourse you are completely undoing all the cas bolts while adjusting them which is just bad practice .

This thread us unreal. Just the recap you aren't bothered with the one initial problem in the the thread only because you caused another more serious issue.....

Edited by Ben C34

Isn't this why some tuners turn the CAS all the way advanced or retarded and then compensate for it in the ECU? So people can't just spin it willy-nilly and adjust the timing?

Who knows. But the amount of guys doing random shit with the hand controllers is surely concerning to them. Now I know why tuners lock their tunes.

FFS Ronald a month later and 18 pages of nonsense! Give up and get the car to some kent who knows what he's doing! ;)

I know/understand you're a tight kent & can also understand that you are trying to learn/troubleshoot on your ride but the money you have lost in bad fuel economy probably could have paid to have had your car sorted by now!

Edited by Mick_o

Who knows. But the amount of guys doing random shit with the hand controllers is surely concerning to them. Now I know why tuners lock their tunes.

thats what i'd call lazy tuning.... 'edit' took the wrong quote....meant to respond to this one. Isn't this why some tuners turn the CAS all the way advanced or retarded and then compensate for it in the ECU? So people can't just spin it willy-nilly and adjust the timing?

Edited by Badgaz

Seriously? Do you not get it yet?

What the power fc says it is putting out at idle is what the cas should be set at. You need to check that.

No way slightly tapping the cas or doing up the bolts moves it by 5 degrees. Unless you are totally ham fisted. It's the power fc putting out different timing. Not the cas moving. Unless ofcourse you are completely undoing all the cas bolts while adjusting them which is just bad practice .

This thread us unreal. Just the recap you aren't bothered with the one initial problem in the the thread only because you caused another more serious issue.....

You seriously sound like your on your monthly periods sometimes..while other times you can be helpful,...I have seen your posts on other threads..and seen others give you a bit of a rub-down...

Lol....and life goes on. Let me play with my car and you play with yours right? If you can help then you can be sure its appreciated, if you start having your periods then I might just ignore ;-

You seriously sound like your on your monthly periods sometimes..while other times you can be helpful,...I have seen your posts on other threads..and seen others give you a bit of a rub-down...

Lol....and life goes on. Let me play with my car and you play with yours right? If you can help then you can be sure its appreciated, if you start having your periods then I might just ignore ;-

I think he is trying to be helpful by stopping you from blowing up your engine.

  • Like 1

FFS Ronald a month later and 18 pages of nonsense! Give up and get the car to some kent who knows what he's doing! ;)

I know/understand you're a tight kent & can also understand that you are trying to learn/troubleshoot on your ride but the money you have lost in bad fuel economy probably could have paid to have had your car sorted by now!

Mick I dont really care about the bad economy as long as I'm learning stuff and am able to fix it myself sometime, that is highly satisfactory to me. Even if it goes backwards n costs more in the long run. Part of the fun is learning, DIYs, fixing, enjoying, for me that is. Does that still make me a tight kent??

You seriously sound like your on your monthly periods sometimes..while other times you can be helpful,...I have seen your posts on other threads..and seen others give you a bit of a rub-down...

Lol....and life goes on. Let me play with my car and you play with yours right? If you can help then you can be sure its appreciated, if you start having your periods then I might just ignore ;-

Calm down champ. Read back over what I have written, if you have the time.

This thread is really interesting and gets funnier as it goes on. Any moment now you are likely to pop your engine..

You say you want to learn about your car and buy tools etc, but won't buy a wideband and datalog it which is mandatory if you want to actually achieve anything rather than just taking wild guesses.

Remember the part where I said if your afm is dodgy your car is tuned for it? Do you get what I mean by that? If you did actually try someone else's afm you could very well kill your engine if not monitoring afr's.

Anyway man, keep this thread alive. Its interesting to See how long untill you either fix the actual issue or kill the engine.

Well I hope persistence pays off for ya son before you pull the pin and throw the grenade on that 25 :)

Mick I dont really care about the bad economy as long as I'm learning stuff and am able to fix it myself sometime, that is highly satisfactory to me. Even if it goes backwards n costs more in the long run. Part of the fun is learning, DIYs, fixing, enjoying, for me that is. Does that still make me a tight kent??

Who knows. But the amount of guys doing random shit with the hand controllers is surely concerning to them. Now I know why tuners lock their tunes.

This is exactly why I do not have a hand controller for my PFC

  • Like 1

Im glad I do have the controller- learnt a lot of stuff- if it blows then it blows, its not a Porsche, another 3-5k will have an RB25/30 sitting under the hood with a whole lot of lifetime knowledge n experience : win

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
    • Dort sounds above 3k rpm are dorty 🤣 I might krinkle black the alloy 🤔
    • It makes you wonder, all these people starting to make a billet replacement head, I wonder if any have thought about trying to adapt tech from newer engines into them. You're already at the full design stage to make a billet head... Why not really spice it up and had some more modern tech into the mix too...
    • Connect all the plumbing up properly. The actual worst part about having the turbo unable to actually build boost, is you can and likely would over soon the turbo if you drove the car (free rev while stationary isnt likely to manage it).   If you do have an air leak as Duncan suggested, you'll have a bad time as the AFM will be saying different to reality.   As you have had the engine out, I'd go over all electrical connections again. If you have a consult cable, plug it in, and see what the ECU thinks is going on. Did you touch the timing belt? If so, double check your timing on the gears is correct AND put a timing light on it while it's idling and see what ignition setting you have. Is the AFM you've installed the one that was in the car previously? You said you replaced seals, what seals exactly? What have you had apart?   From memory when I had my RB25DET with factory throttle, there was two plugs the TPS plug on the loom could go to. One would leave the car running like shit, the other made it work, I think one plug on the TPS area was for something else (an option). It's too many years since I saw that part of the loom to remember properly though.   Is the car idling smooth (as smooth as an RB can)? Does it smell fuelled up?   I have a feeling either timing in timing belt is off, or a sensor isn't right.
    • Theres still skid pan and motokhana days up in QLD at least that are $100 or less. The ones that are ran as "driver training" less so, they're expensive, but just normal skid pan days like SAU ran are still low cost. And thats one of the places I learned to be a lariken, purely by asking for passenger rides, and how people were doing crazy things. Reese gave me plenty of pointers back in the day for skid pan! And yes Duncan, I will never forget your pointers for track work. Especially after Neil got out saying "I am NEVER getting in the car with him again!" 😛
×
×
  • Create New...