Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK Guys,ive read so much on here about attessa issues but my car has got me stuffed so would appreciate any opinions.Cars an R32 gtr running about 550kws.Bought it 3 years ago with the abs already removed.Car was running 400kws then,flogged the crap out of it,had no 4wd problems at all.Then all i did was build a new forged engine chasing more power and now the 4wd light comes on every now and then,and you can feel it switch to 2wd(wheelspin).Just cruising it never does it,but when i do a full on launch,just before pulling 2nd gear it sometimes comes on.Probably about 1 in 5 launches,WEIRD?Quite often before i pull over the light goes out so the LED codes in the boot are gone.Now today they stayed on and i got codes 8 an 9,abs actuator motor,motor relay or circuit and abs actuator relay or circuit.Every time it happens,if i turn the ignition off then back on it comes good again.Not sure what the previous owner did to the wiring when the abs was removed but it worked fine for 2years with the old engine.Im an electrician but this has got me stuffed,what do you guys reckon?Cheers Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446207-4wd-light-issues/
Share on other sites

Check your earths are clean and make sure the starter motor has its wires on properly. Main earths to check are battery, main engine, alternator and coil igniter, These are the ones that cause the most problems after a rebuild.keep us updated.

They are but the earth issues are the first and easiest ones to fix up before you look at anything else. Just pull the bolts, degrease, sand the contact and body until you see metal and bolt it back up. And check your starter motor wires. There is also an earth point on the head near the front of the plenum that if you are anal you can run an 8G wire to the body where the block earth attaches to.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't do it if your gearbox box has already having syncro issues. The short hifter will put a greater load on them. If you must I remember Nismo did a shorter shifter, with the top part being physically shorter and the part that went into the gearbox was the same as stock. In saying that I've had a C's short shifter (I think) in mine for many years, which was given to me as the previous owner was not sympathetic to the gearbox. Thus forwarned I was careful and had to modify my normal changing style. You have to be super accurate with your clutch and shifts
    • Well, after a week of daily driving and having to crawl out between the wheel and the side intrusion bars. I got myself a quick release setup. I went with an NRG short hub and Quick Release with some cute heart cutouts on the pull tabs. Nice and matchy matchy with the rest of the interior accents I have going on.  The only downside is the total stack height even with the short adapter is longer than the old HKB boss kit. Luckily I had some adjustment left on the column so move the wheel away.
    • stock shifter with new bushes, springs and cup will improve it. Gktech do all the bits. The opinion as the years have gone on is the redline is not great in old gearboxes.
    • Hi all   what short shifter do you use on your skykine r34?   my synchronous does have a problem and i was getting huge delay and grinding sound between 2nd and 3rd, did put shockproof red heavy stuff and it is great now/ no issues   would in your view short shifter screw this up?   people seems to suggest/ use cube short shifter and there is standard and premium. Seen review of premium as much better and less play. Thoughts?
    • Yeah, there's a bit of a density and friability difference between pebbles and any of those other things. Silicone will definitely float in oil and so will be mobile enough to move around. Although, again, if it is upstream of the filter it really shouldn't go any further. I would only ever worry about silicone when it is in places downstream of the filter. Upstream of the pickup is a whole 'nother matter. We've all seen what that does. I have seen the most abominable crap settled out in industrial gearboxes, trunnion lube systems and the like, without any sign that any of it has touched anything in the machine. Just chilling in the bottom, waiting for the inevitable operator error that causes the whole machine to need to be dismantled for repairs.
×
×
  • Create New...