Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just to start with, yes I've searched :)

But have only found conflicting info.

As in gt3037? But it comes with the options of 3 different rear housings?

same as most Garrett units, hks, etc.

I'm shopping for a new/bigger turbo,

I have a RB30DET in a patrol wagon,

Currently makes 244hp atw, but with this nasty Chinese t04e (0.63ar rear)I'm running, it has to much back pressure and boost drops off over 6000rpm.

I'm not chasing power, just want good low down response that will flow enough for roughly 300-350hp?

My tuner said it will make more power at the same boost if the exhaust housing had less back pressure,

My setup is stock 30 block, 25de head non vct, hi-mount manifold, tial 44mm Gate, 3" mandrel exhaust all straight through except 3" metal cat.

Neo 25 injectors, stock (front facing- cut/shut) inlet, 2.5" cooler pipes, 600-300-75 fmic.

What I want to know is with what turbo, and especially what size trim and a/r rear are people's engines making boost?

As an example of what info I'm after -

RB30DET, t04e .50com .63rear, pos pressure @1850rpm, full 15psi @2600rpm .

So can people post?

Engine, turbo, rear housing size, rpm which you see boost, rpm you have full boost.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446336-turbo-sizing-vs-responsespool-time/
Share on other sites

^^This is what the RB30 dyno results thread is all about.

There isn't an RB30 dyno thread. There's a 25/26-30 thread, but results there are going to be quite different to a bog stock single cam 30DET head. Sure, he can get some ideas, but it's still a fair question.

To be honest a better response would have been to point him to a VL forum. They have way more experience with RB30s than the folks here.

I've read that thread over a few times, nearly all state a model of turbo, some state the rear ar, but those are always 1.06 or somethin massive =lag monster with a sledgehammer power curve, I'm after info on boost threshold.

Pretty much exactly what kiwiRS4t gave me!

Also recommendations are welcome.

I'm using an r31 block,pistons. Originally 9.0:1 static.

R32 rb25de head, 62cc chambers.

Slightly skimmed when it was freshened up.

1.3mm head gasket.

Cylinder pressure is 150psi exactly.

So maybe 8.5:1 (ish?)

The ATR43-TX3 from hyper gear looks the part I need, rated 400-600hp.

G1 profile -400hp with .63 rear

Would this provide aggressive response and still be ok up to about 5500rpm?

Most of my driving is 1500-4500rpm

With the occasional 6900 overtaking and lights-lights drive maneuver!

It would be silly responsive on a 3l. You'll probably want the .82 rear on it. I reckon a .63 will struggle at 7k on a 3l.

Edited by Cowboy1600

The performance goals are achieveable with either the 3076 0.82 combination, or a Hypergear unit.

Begs the question of why muck around with a RB, when big cubes TB45/48 engines are made to run in the 1500-4500 bracket.

Best torque for an average 30DET should be in the 2500-6000 range, using budget gear as per the build spec notes from OP. Getting strong turbo-assisted torque below 2500 is likely to result in exactly what happened with the TO4E.

I'll throw in an unusual budget suggestion: Kinugawa TDO6H-20G 10cm.

I'll throw in an unusual budget suggestion: Kinugawa TDO6H-20G 10cm.

good idea

Though I'd look more at the TD06SL2-20G with the 9 blade rear wheel so it can still breath out at higher rpm :)

This one http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/291207219708?nav=SEARCH

The smaller exhaust wheel for faster spool

Also OP reading your post in the dyno thread I will guess from what you wrote you retarded the intake 2deg and advanced the exhaust 4 deg, this is wrong for what you want, advance intake 4 and retard exhaust 6, give that a go and report back :yes:

SL2 turbine probably should respond faster, due to less inertia

When building these 30DET you can't set cam timing from an unknown starting point. The cam timing markers don't line up to zero. Highly recommend paying the relatively small cost for an experienced builder to correctly set both cams using degree wheel and dial indicator. Then you've got a proper starting point if you wanted to play further on the dyno. Achieving low rpm gains will still come at a cost of higher rpm losses.

If bottom end grunt and instant response is the target, I wouldn't think the 30DET is the best spec. Small capacity engine in heavy truck can only do so much. These things still need to turn a few rpm to work well.

TB45/48 with a GT37 would be hard to beat, provided you could keep fuel and clutches/gearboxes up to it.

I'm certain that there would be some good info out on forums covering Patrols, Off Road racing etc.

  • Like 1

That's a good point and something I should have added, the specs I give for cam timing should always be from a corrected zero :thumbsup:

While the 4.8 patrol motor will give more from lower rpm, that is really only a benifit to rock crawlers, 4wding and off road racing use a wider rev range then the 4.8 will deliver, we race off road

post-36620-0-18520900-1407107133_thumb.jpg

This has a VQ35HR N/A

I think the RB30det set right with the right turbo will give more then enough power anywhere in the rev range

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That ring thing is interesting how it's holding everything together 
    • Hey guys. I have a 400R on its way to Australia from Japan currently and have a few questions I’m hoping others may be able to help with.   Wondering if anyone here has had any luck getting the Sat nav unit to work in Australia!? Assuming the Stereo is as simple as a band expanded and tv won’t work?  Seeing as they’re based off a Q50 which is Aus delivered is there any way to link that system to the nav? Nav modules and head unit are different part numbers and appear slightly different at the rear with plug ins etc. can I put my xtrail sd card into the rv37 and will that convert the maps or update to Australian? Has anyone got any advice here?     also has anyone fitted the factory remote start and Security system once it’s landed in Australia? I put an enquirey to Nissan Japan in via a third party, and they suggested it needs a Nissan Japan dealers device to setup and couldn’t guarantee if one here could do it or not. They can supply and I can physically fit it but to setup I would need a dealers device. Any information here would be appreciated also. I’ve seen one here with it fitted already prior to leaving Japan at a dealer/inporter, so clearly passes compliance and works when fitted Japan and doesn’t need changing here.      also, does the tyre inflation sensors work here? Does anything change with them when the vehicle arrives? Where are they actually situated? I’ve read they have batteries and they need to changing at times and seems like resetting involves the nav system?    any help here would be appreciated and any other aust specific information to help would be great. Looking forward to see what the current generation skyline is like and eager to see how many of the gadgets can be utilised here.  Thanks in advance 
    • Do need to take it with a pinch of salt. One of the adapter failures, they clearly had setup issues with the flywheel.  One of the slipping ones I spoke to and it was pretty clear the throwout was riding, rather than fix, just swapped to a new clutch.    These clutches are being put in anything from 5k offroad 4x4 beaters, GR yaris, 500hp commodores to 1200hp barra monsters. Bound to be some issues in some of them when they are not a simple bolt in affair due to the changes in height.    There is a lot going on in this picture and unless I did the job myself no way to tell what really happened. 
    • I did this mod in 2019  You just have to modify the top bracket of the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU so it sits more upright and closer to the back seat and run a good quality positive battery lead from the engine bay, the negative lead i just bolted down to the body in the boot.
    • Damn... Not the feedback I want to hear.
×
×
  • Create New...