Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, just notice spool imports sells spline driven billet oil pump gears to suit rb oil pumps.

http://www.spoolimports.com/billet-oil-pump-gears/nissan-rb/rb-spline-driven-billet-oil-pump-gears

Had a bit of a search but could find any account of anyone have installed or used them yet. Just looking to see what everyones opinion is on this option? In theory should be much more robust that the std 2 flat type drive I would think, however would there be any alignment issues or other issues that anyone has experienced or can think of?

Looking at possibly going down this route for a current rb30/25 build but would apreciate any advice anyone can offer.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446380-spline-driven-oil-pump-gears/
Share on other sites

I don't know why this wasn't done much sooner.

Company called supertec in UK/Europe also make them to suit different pumps.

Nitto is also coming out with a drive spline soon (they have been been doing R&D for a couple of years).

Did find that when searching but was a bit concerning that nitto has been doing r&d for so long and not yet released it yet. Makes me wonder if there is an underlying issue I have not considered?

Only thing I can think of is that it would require more accuracy for alignment/height of crank snout to oil pump drive centre. Would be less forgiving if it had to line up all splines?

If anyone has fitted a set with no issues would go a long way in making me feel more confident in going this option

I think I recall NITTO posting on here to the effect that the installed height of the crankshaft in the block is the issue. If you machine the main tunnels the crank can/will move up and down a tiny bit relative to the block. The oil pump doesn't. The flat drive arrangement allows some slack that lets this happen without problem. But the splines don't have that freedom.

Or something to that effect. Do a search - I'm sure there's something on here from NITTO about it.

Yeah seen that and thats what raises the question of issues with trying to install these spool gears. Would that be the only issue? So if im planning on using std main bolts and hence no line boring or altering of crank hieght (in theory anyway) should be all good?

In theory, communisim works.......

I dunno, I got alot of gear from Spool, and don't have any problems with the stuff. The rods look/are great and the rest of the stuff has been good. But I'd be more inclined to listen to pay attention to what the guys at Nitto are doing. With any luck spool have been doing the same research in the background, but I wouldnt want to be the guinea pig without any knowledge.

If it were me, I would call or email Spool and see if they have done some R&D into the potential issues with boring the crank tunnel etc. It's a good idea, Kinda wish I could have done this on mine, but then again I had to get the crank tunnel machined on mine so maybe not such a bad thing they werent around lol

As with any product R&D is the key to over come any initial design issues and potential problems. These gears we have supplied be it N1, OEM, etc have been tested in high powered street and track to ensure that they work as intended further more Tomei and Jun version have been used in 1000-1200bhp power RB26/30 engines where they are also hammering the limiter and revving up to 11k rpm.

The key to having a reliable setup is prior machining work to ensure that the collar is pressed on with the clearances provided and the correct temp requirements are met.

With our design there is ample clearance in the spline engagement to allow for any out of centre crank alignment with in the manufacturers recommended tolerance. Always best to get the main ends line bored if for what ever reason crank is not a lining up straight.

More pictures facebook.com/supertecracing

Edited by Supertec
  • Like 1

The issue with clearance is not exclusive to only Nissan OEM or N1, but the issue is some what masked with Tomei and Jun as they are thicker gears, but again using flat drive they are not immune from breaking the inner gear. One of our customers broke a Tomei inner gear. We have since supplied him a Tomei spine conversion kit.

  • 3 months later...

The issue with clearance is not exclusive to only Nissan OEM or N1, but the issue is some what masked with Tomei and Jun as they are thicker gears, but again using flat drive they are not immune from breaking the inner gear. One of our customers broke a Tomei inner gear. We have since supplied him a Tomei spine conversion kit.

What are these spline conversion kits worth?

  • 3 months later...
  • 11 months later...
  • 3 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No need to replace the cover if it is still intact (not worn through). It would be worth checking the balancer for matching marks on the rear, but I'd assume the balancer was loose at some stage. The cam timing marks look fine, once you put the new belt on you can only be right or a full tooth out
    • Disconnecting rods! must have been an unpleasant surprise...
    • So been ocd with timing mark but checked from few angle and seems both cam are on and crank is matching as well to the slot on sump and crank pully   i noticed crankshaft cover has been robbed as per attached pic. Any ideas why? Could my balancer or harmonic be on its way out? should I replace the cover? https://ibb.co/ZR1JFYRR
    • So now doing the change and first time dealing with rb so little nervous giving engine power and potential for screwing it up When you align all marks and then remove crank bolt, timing move little I assume you can put the bolt back in once you have removed the pully to get timing to where you want?   here is pic of my both intake and exchust cam aligned, depending on angle you look they seem to be either aligned or a half tooth or so out. Any thoughts? Should you angle your face and look at each mark that way as if looking straight rather than from above as it can be misleading   <a href="https://ibb.co/ZpnhcvbF"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/HfWrGR9b/IMG-4447.jpg" alt="IMG-4447" border="0"></a> <a href="https://ibb.co/4wm2wn4q"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/JWBqWwr1/IMG-4445.jpg" alt="IMG-4445" border="0"></a>   https://ibb.co/ZpnhcvbF https://ibb.co/4wm2wn4q
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy Haven't really thought of that yet, but you are right. If the hose was damaged it should be absolutely pissing by now. I'll put some heat sleeve around it for good measure since I'm already removing the line anyway.  Maybe I'll put on some of the stock hardlines if I ever fully remove the turbos again. Maybe when T51R modding the compressor housings? Might be a fun mod on GT28s for that "fake single turbo" effect.
×
×
  • Create New...