Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think its a cr*p turbo base on a quick google. It seems it is too small to make the power you are looking for. If it is not your daily you could take the turbo off and send it to Hypergear and see if he can do anything with it, If not he will not waste your money but tell you so.

One other possible cause of det and/or false detection of det and/or wiggly power curves. OK, actually two reasons.

1) It's an old motor. It might be moving enough oil around under boost to cause octane reduction and hence detonation. I know you said it doesn't use much and doesn't blow smoke, but realistically you can't see the oil smoke for the black fuel smoke under boost anyway (there's enough black at 11.5-12:1 to mask enough blue to cause det). Do a compression test and perhaps a leakdown test. They're not actually great tests for seeing if the oil control rings are not working properly (because they test the compression rings!!) but they can be indicative of wear.

2) Valve float. Again, old engine + more boost can make the valves float and this can be both noisy (and therefore give false knock readings) and will cause wiggly power curves.

But the biggest concern we had was the power began to oscillate quite violently once we reach full power, this could be seen and felt, we noticed as we turned the boost down the oscillation smoothed out.

That sounds like on boost surge, not something you want happening ever. I suspect the turbo wouldn't last 3 laps.

Make sure you tell Tao you plan to track it when you ring Hypergear. ;)

So the boost line on the dyno graph spikes 2 psi then sits flat yeah ?

I'd go with the valve float theory for your wavey power graph

What plug gap are you running, 0.7mm ?

Im currently running 0.7 or .8 i think just the standard gap not the 1.1's, i just the cheap copper ones. i cant remember the number at the moment, how does one prove its valve float? and whats involved in correcting it?

Im wondering if its worth buying a low km used engine or just working with what ive got. but i guess there is no real way of knowing the next motor would be any better

Changing your good engine to get around buying a decent turbo seems somehow backwards...

I have no issues buying another turbo, but am a little concerned if it doesnt fix the issues i then need perhaps a head rebuild, or somthing more significant. 225k+ on a motor that im guessing has had a hard life, im thinking everything may be worn out and rather then a costly complete rebuild a low mileage motor might do the trick,

There are usually tell tale signs of engine damage, knocking, ticking, usually noises that come from high mileage or poorly serviced engines. If it all sounds good and you have fresh oil in it, why not lean on it until it blows, then buy a new engine if you need one.

There are usually tell tale signs of engine damage, knocking, ticking, usually noises that come from high mileage or poorly serviced engines. If it all sounds good and you have fresh oil in it, why not lean on it until it blows, then buy a new engine if you need one.

This is good advice. If 2nd hand motors are cheap enough then you won't cry when it explodes so push it!

Buy a good turbo first :P

the motor sounds really good and does run along nice which is why i bought it, ill ring hypergear today and see what we can do about another turbo, i can always transplant it after all if the motor dies

One other possible cause of det and/or false detection of det and/or wiggly power curves. OK, actually two reasons.

1) It's an old motor. It might be moving enough oil around under boost to cause octane reduction and hence detonation. I know you said it doesn't use much and doesn't blow smoke, but realistically you can't see the oil smoke for the black fuel smoke under boost anyway (there's enough black at 11.5-12:1 to mask enough blue to cause det).

Could he disconnect the PCV hose, plug up the intake side so it doesn't suck air, and just let the cam cover side vent to atmosphere for a dyno run to see what happens as a quick and nasty alternative to those tests?

Well had a good day today, removed the existing turbo which was good timing as all the hoses connecting it were about to fail, water line split and drained the radiator for me which was fun, one down side for having your own hoist is you can stand under stuff as it leaks , I spent a fair bit of time talking to Stao today from hypergear, he is very confident my issues are from a shit turbo where the exhaust housing is to small for the compressor, he recommended high flowing my turbo or getting another. After telling him what i wanted he advised me to go for an ATR43ss1PU with a .86 turbine and an 18psi actuator and i wont be using any boost control.

im exited by the prospect of getting the turbo but im really nervous about running 18psi in a car that has had constant issues running 14 and 16psi. im worried with an 18psi actuator i wont be able to wind the boost down to reduce detonation. Stao is confident that i can manage this by reducing the timing to allow for the extra boost, I dont doubt what he is say is doable but i have not though of or heard of this before, Is this a common way to tune,

Easy peice of advice. Use a better tuner. If your tuner was any good you would know the answers your looking for..

And yeh those turbs are a nasty $350 buk ebay job arnt they?

Easy peice of advice. Use a better tuner. If your tuner was any good you would know the answers your looking for..

And yeh those turbs are a nasty $350 buk ebay job arnt they?

My tuner is fine, he said right from the start that he really had his doubts about the turbo, but seeing as im on a limited budget we were just trying to make what i had reliable. the problem is every time the car starts to perform we had these issues. New turbo should arrive in the next week or so and we can see what happens

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes...but look at the numbers. There is a tiny tiny fraction of the number of Joules available, compared to what is used/needed. Just because things are "possible" doesn't make them meaningful.
    • Thanks for taking the time to post that ! If anything changes or happens please do update us. 
    • Somehow Vertimass/Oak Ridge National Labs has figured out a catalyst that can convert ethanol into C9-C10 hydrocarbons in basically a single step without ending up with a bunch of ethylene or similar waste products: https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2023224867A1/en I still don't think anything like this will keep us from needing to transition to EVs regardless along with all kinds of other electrification, but things like this will go a long way towards alleviating the problem of how to electrify things like planes. Renewable diesel is seemingly an easier problem as well, Chevron is already running refineries for the stuff and the primary feedstock is tallow and other waste fats from agriculture.
    • Ok so I have sorted everything with my uniclutch and  i can offer up a bit of feedback and some things that might help others.    I found problems with factory damper line. Weird shit and had trouble with peddle adjustment    I used this https://au.gktech.com/products/r33-gts-t-skyline-braided-clutch-line?_pos=2&_sid=22b01b9b9&_ss=r Also when adjusting peddle leave a bit of play. You can get into a over stroke condition easy.. Make sure you can push the slave forward after adjusting to confirm fluid can return to master then you will need to pump it up heaps…..not sure why but that’s how it is.    last thing the splined adapter is machined perfectly. If your input shaft is old like mine was I would put a bit of valve grinding paste on it and stroke it like a 15 year old. Just to give it a tad more clearance and to better match it to the spline.    reason is on a near flat shift I have had situation where the peddle returns a millisecond after you lift from the clutch. No slip or anything but I reckon this is due to tolerance on the spline being way tighter than stock clutch and binding for a sec. I think this will go away but also my spline was old. Box is old so I guess I should have checked better. It’s a super neat fit.    it feels light as and holds awesome without any noise    
    • My Fuga Hybrid is JDM, 2014 model but very similar to the V37 from the looks of things..same platform just physically larger and very comfortab;e
×
×
  • Create New...