Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think its a cr*p turbo base on a quick google. It seems it is too small to make the power you are looking for. If it is not your daily you could take the turbo off and send it to Hypergear and see if he can do anything with it, If not he will not waste your money but tell you so.

One other possible cause of det and/or false detection of det and/or wiggly power curves. OK, actually two reasons.

1) It's an old motor. It might be moving enough oil around under boost to cause octane reduction and hence detonation. I know you said it doesn't use much and doesn't blow smoke, but realistically you can't see the oil smoke for the black fuel smoke under boost anyway (there's enough black at 11.5-12:1 to mask enough blue to cause det). Do a compression test and perhaps a leakdown test. They're not actually great tests for seeing if the oil control rings are not working properly (because they test the compression rings!!) but they can be indicative of wear.

2) Valve float. Again, old engine + more boost can make the valves float and this can be both noisy (and therefore give false knock readings) and will cause wiggly power curves.

But the biggest concern we had was the power began to oscillate quite violently once we reach full power, this could be seen and felt, we noticed as we turned the boost down the oscillation smoothed out.

That sounds like on boost surge, not something you want happening ever. I suspect the turbo wouldn't last 3 laps.

Make sure you tell Tao you plan to track it when you ring Hypergear. ;)

So the boost line on the dyno graph spikes 2 psi then sits flat yeah ?

I'd go with the valve float theory for your wavey power graph

What plug gap are you running, 0.7mm ?

Im currently running 0.7 or .8 i think just the standard gap not the 1.1's, i just the cheap copper ones. i cant remember the number at the moment, how does one prove its valve float? and whats involved in correcting it?

Im wondering if its worth buying a low km used engine or just working with what ive got. but i guess there is no real way of knowing the next motor would be any better

Changing your good engine to get around buying a decent turbo seems somehow backwards...

I have no issues buying another turbo, but am a little concerned if it doesnt fix the issues i then need perhaps a head rebuild, or somthing more significant. 225k+ on a motor that im guessing has had a hard life, im thinking everything may be worn out and rather then a costly complete rebuild a low mileage motor might do the trick,

There are usually tell tale signs of engine damage, knocking, ticking, usually noises that come from high mileage or poorly serviced engines. If it all sounds good and you have fresh oil in it, why not lean on it until it blows, then buy a new engine if you need one.

There are usually tell tale signs of engine damage, knocking, ticking, usually noises that come from high mileage or poorly serviced engines. If it all sounds good and you have fresh oil in it, why not lean on it until it blows, then buy a new engine if you need one.

This is good advice. If 2nd hand motors are cheap enough then you won't cry when it explodes so push it!

Buy a good turbo first :P

the motor sounds really good and does run along nice which is why i bought it, ill ring hypergear today and see what we can do about another turbo, i can always transplant it after all if the motor dies

One other possible cause of det and/or false detection of det and/or wiggly power curves. OK, actually two reasons.

1) It's an old motor. It might be moving enough oil around under boost to cause octane reduction and hence detonation. I know you said it doesn't use much and doesn't blow smoke, but realistically you can't see the oil smoke for the black fuel smoke under boost anyway (there's enough black at 11.5-12:1 to mask enough blue to cause det).

Could he disconnect the PCV hose, plug up the intake side so it doesn't suck air, and just let the cam cover side vent to atmosphere for a dyno run to see what happens as a quick and nasty alternative to those tests?

Well had a good day today, removed the existing turbo which was good timing as all the hoses connecting it were about to fail, water line split and drained the radiator for me which was fun, one down side for having your own hoist is you can stand under stuff as it leaks , I spent a fair bit of time talking to Stao today from hypergear, he is very confident my issues are from a shit turbo where the exhaust housing is to small for the compressor, he recommended high flowing my turbo or getting another. After telling him what i wanted he advised me to go for an ATR43ss1PU with a .86 turbine and an 18psi actuator and i wont be using any boost control.

im exited by the prospect of getting the turbo but im really nervous about running 18psi in a car that has had constant issues running 14 and 16psi. im worried with an 18psi actuator i wont be able to wind the boost down to reduce detonation. Stao is confident that i can manage this by reducing the timing to allow for the extra boost, I dont doubt what he is say is doable but i have not though of or heard of this before, Is this a common way to tune,

Easy peice of advice. Use a better tuner. If your tuner was any good you would know the answers your looking for..

And yeh those turbs are a nasty $350 buk ebay job arnt they?

Easy peice of advice. Use a better tuner. If your tuner was any good you would know the answers your looking for..

And yeh those turbs are a nasty $350 buk ebay job arnt they?

My tuner is fine, he said right from the start that he really had his doubts about the turbo, but seeing as im on a limited budget we were just trying to make what i had reliable. the problem is every time the car starts to perform we had these issues. New turbo should arrive in the next week or so and we can see what happens

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
    • It's a place for non car talk. There's whoretown which is general shit talking. But also other threads coving all sorts of stuff(a lot still semi car related)
×
×
  • Create New...