Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I figured Stageas to be heavier on fuel, around the same or slightly more than a turbo Subbie, but at 430km from 64L at mostly motorway/cruising speeds I suspect there is something a miss.....

I'm after some friendly advice to help try to improve things. I've started with new sparkplugs (PLFR5A-11), and have noticed the tailpipe is very sooty (500ish km since it was cleaned)

Thanks in advance,

JP

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446450-tips-for-improving-fuel-economy/
Share on other sites

This is for the PNM35 right?

The plugs he has used are the correct plugs for the VQ35, probably could have gone for LFR5A-11's rather than the platinum to save coin but doesn't matter.

I recently did around 400km to half a tank in my PNM35 and that was majority highway driving and I'm going to go up north again soon.

PNM35 = no boost. ;)

FWIW I get over 600km before the fuel light in mine if I'm doing open road driving, and that's with zero regard for fuel economy in a country riddled with mountains.

Edited by Hertz Donut

More tyre pressure? What do you guys run anyhow? My placard says 30 front 34 rear, but i run 34 front 36 rear. Tyre wear seems normal.

Dont run anything heavier than a ?W-40 weight oil.

Replace o2 sensor if its stuffed, or if you don't know and want to try it. With consult on an RB its easy to tell, no idea about the more modern (P)NM stuff.

Yeah, some "it's easy on my C34" answers here :D

I don't know what your freeways are like, but I drove mine sydney to melb and back twice in a week. AC on, two people and bags, cursing at about 120 indicated (110) and returned about 10.5/100kms.

The best thing you can do is make sure everything is serviced with correct fluids and filters. Secondly, check tyre pressure, and raise it to 35-37ish. You can take then plenum off and clean it out, they attract a fair bit of blow by oil, and it's good to give it a clean out.

Get it on the freeway with a laptop, and check the O2 sensors are auto correcting the mixture when it's on closed loop.

What fuel you guys have over there? What are you using?

This is for the PNM35 right?

The plugs he has used are the correct plugs for the VQ35, probably could have gone for LFR5A-11's rather than the platinum to save coin but doesn't matter.

I recently did around 400km to half a tank in my PNM35 and that was majority highway driving and I'm going to go up north again soon.

I got the plugs for $8 each from a 350z owner who sold his car before installing

PNM35 = no boost. ;)

FWIW I get over 600km before the fuel light in mine if I'm doing open road driving, and that's with zero regard for fuel economy in a country riddled with mountains.

Geez, you must look after you car well

More tyre pressure? What do you guys run anyhow? My placard says 30 front 34 rear, but i run 34 front 36 rear. Tyre wear seems normal.

Dont run anything heavier than a ?W-40 weight oil.

Replace o2 sensor if its stuffed, or if you don't know and want to try it. With consult on an RB its easy to tell, no idea about the more modern (P)NM stuff.

I'm on Dunlop EnaSaves running about 40psi (49psi is max as stated on the tire)

Yeah, some "it's easy on my C34" answers here :D

I don't know what your freeways are like, but I drove mine sydney to melb and back twice in a week. AC on, two people and bags, cursing at about 120 indicated (110) and returned about 10.5/100kms.

The best thing you can do is make sure everything is serviced with correct fluids and filters. Secondly, check tyre pressure, and raise it to 35-37ish. You can take then plenum off and clean it out, they attract a fair bit of blow by oil, and it's good to give it a clean out.

Get it on the freeway with a laptop, and check the O2 sensors are auto correcting the mixture when it's on closed loop.

What fuel you guys have over there? What are you using?

I'm running BP98. I've cleaned the TB - it was really gunked up. I should really look at changing the diff oils, and add a transcooler, VB, and trans flush.

Could you point me in the dirrection of cables and software needed to connect a laptop?

Any Kiwis know where to source the 02 sensors for a good price?

Thanks,

JP

Geez, you must look after you car well

...

I'm on Dunlop EnaSaves running about 40psi (49psi is max as stated on the tire)

I have a strict policy of changing the oil in our beater Commodore every 80,000km or 8 years, whichever comes last. I'm doing the Stagea every 5,000km/3 months, I don't think it'll handle the same regimen. Other than that I've done nothing with it but it was a mint example when I got it (i.e. before the kids started smearing food and mud into everything and my mother-in-law started parking by Braille).

I'm running Enasaves too, 30-32psi all round and they seem to wear evenly. They're a 55 profile so shouldn't need higher pressures like a 35-40 profile.

It might be different with your car but I get about 100km less out of a tank when using BP than when I use Shell 98

The best way to reduce the amount of fuel you use is put the best in the garage and by a smart kar. The joys of haveing such a nice car (stagea not the smart) also has some draw backs.

If your TB was gummed up, then the rest of the intake will have suffered the same fate. Removal and cleaning of the intake plenum should provide a cleaner intake environment.

I use uprev to do my logging and diagnosis, but they stopped selling just the diagnosis package. Series 2 cars are obdII compliant, so I think you have a fair few options, including some of the android apps and stuff. Somebody might chime in here with what they are using.

Defiantly don't play with the plug gap. This isn't a RB. It's not relevant.

It might be different with your car but I get about 100km less out of a tank when using BP than when I use Shell 98

The best way to reduce the amount of fuel you use is put the best in the garage and by a smart kar. The joys of haveing such a nice car (stagea not the smart) also has some draw backs.

Unfortunately only BP sells 98 in NZ (at least in Christchurch), otherwise its 95 or 91.

I'm not looking for smart-car figures but i'd like to get a little less than 15L/100km (6.8km/L), especially when other stageas are.

If your TB was gummed up, then the rest of the intake will have suffered the same fate. Removal and cleaning of the intake plenum should provide a cleaner intake environment.

Any ideas on how to stop this from happening again once cleaned?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which manifold mate? Meanwhile......Mark is wondering how bonnet vents would look on the NC 🤣
    • Actually,  just remembered there should be info in the threads (somewhere) about swapping to a manual steering rack and deleting power steering all together. 
    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
×
×
  • Create New...