Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I want to ask :

OEM is low impedance, side-feed ( if im not mistaken right ?)

All these bosch appears ot be high impedance, top-feed. how is that suppose to be bolt-on ?

BTW, i'm running a haltech ecu if that make things easier for me to make the switch.

I want to ask :

OEM is low impedance, side-feed ( if im not mistaken right ?)

All these bosch appears ot be high impedance, top-feed. how is that suppose to be bolt-on ?

BTW, i'm running a haltech ecu if that make things easier for me to make the switch.

You are mistaken. OEM RB26 and R34 Neo are topfeed.

R33 S1 and S2 are sidefeed.

  • Like 1

i stand corrected :)

But you are right about the impedance. I don't have an RB26 but here is the answer:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/429842-id1000-injectors-with-rb26-resistor-ballast/

Yep, just remove the resistor, twist all the wires together and solder/tape for modern 14mm injectors.

I have to do the same thing to my evo7 this week to fit the new Stainless Delphi 1400's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's nothing that some paddle pop sticks and extra cable ties can't fix.
    • Hey guys, so Golebys has good prices on Bosch injectors, and also sell an adaptor to go from 1/2 length injector to standard with the Nissan 10.5mm top seal.  Does anyone know if that adaptor is to suit the 14mm or 11mm injector tops?  And re. The bottom seal, to suit my standard RB20 intake, would I be right in saying I can just slip the 14mm square section O ring over the bottom of the new injector and done? Thanks in advance guy, Cheers, Rowdy
    • F my life. I was changing the oil on my R32 GTR today as usual and ran into a bit of a snag. I drained the oil out and was getting ready to finish the job by tightening the drain plug, however The stupid magnetic oil drain plug snapped in half, right at the magnet part. After about an hour of trying to remove it, I used a drill bit, which unfortunately pushed the magnet all the way into the pan, and just leaving the hollow threaded part of the bolt remaining. I was able to remove the hollow portion of the bolt from the oil pan with some pliers but the magnet is still in there.  So, the question is, should I drop the oil pan to get the magnet piece out, or is it okay to leave it in there? I really dont want to drop the pan, i'm about to go nuts.  PSA: Do NOT buy a BLOX magnetic drain plug. This is the one i had.    https://bloxracing.com/products/magnetic-oil-drain-plug-m12x1-25mm?variant=37131252859052&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw47i_BhBTEiwAaJfPpgti1D2JwO7TDuMpXuqeQPCuIQSAfwxpWQH5rF9MD7sm5SCZDWLR_RoC_YoQAvD_BwE    
    • I actually have an aftermarket hanger, the detschwerks x1 hanger, but my dw420 has never really sat in it correctly, good to know I can just modify it a bit to suit. Yeah cheers man will definitely have a play with it and hope it solves my dramas.
    • Seriously though, it's the Shaft Autoservice high mount rear spoiler: https://az-style.shop/items/5ffaad5a72eb464137a6edb1
×
×
  • Create New...