Choices For Turbos Which Is Best?

[yoshiii335]

^Hello

^{I am choosing which turbo I am going to buy for my R32 GTS-T. I have researched the HyperFlow turbos, hi flowed turbos by a company called Raw Brokage in the states and looked at aftermarket turbos.}

^{My friend has a HKS GTRS with the whole kit that he will sell me for 600 dollars that used to be on his R32 GTS-T. It was used some but not lots because he got a bigger turbo and his car is now a massive GTR killer.}

^{Will this be good for buying the Hyper Gear turbo? The cheaper the better for me. I live in Japan so these options are cheaper for me.}

[GTSBoy]

The GTRS will work on the RB20. It is actually better suited to a 25 as a street turbo. It will be a little laggy on an RB20 but will make good power.

You WILL need to do something about your ECU. You won't be able to get good results trying to run it against the stocker ECU - it just won't be much fun.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Borg Warner EFR turbo, get a twin scroll internal gated one with a twin scroll manifold.. would be tits especially on a 2.0L

cost wise, I don't know if it's such a good idea LOL

[yoshiii335]

  On 11/08/2014 at 2:25 AM, GTSBoy said:

The GTRS will work on the RB20. It is actually better suited to a 25 as a street turbo. It will be a little laggy on an RB20 but will make good power.

You WILL need to do something about your ECU. You won't be able to get good results trying to run it against the stocker ECU - it just won't be much fun.

What is a little laggy? Noticable?

I am also going to have adjustable cam gears and Tomei Poncams, and the Nismo GT sports clutch kit which comes with a flywheel.

Will this help take away some of the lag?

I will go with a Nistune(if a affordable place in Japan can be found) or Mines or Power FC if have too, dont really want too.

Edited August 11, 2014 by yoshiii335

[GTSBoy]

The GTRS is pretty responsive on an RB25. The RB20 is down 20% flow on the RB25 so you might expect to need 500rpm more to make the GTRS wake up. That'll mean boost threshold above 3000rpm. I don't know, I'm no expert on that turbo. You really should have a look at the RB20 turbo thread and the RB25 turbo thread (both stickied up the top) to find some results for the GTRS. You'll see.

Cam gears will help you lower the boost threshold if you set them up to do so. Doing so will be at the expense of top end. The GTRS will possibly offer a really good top end on an RB20, so you might not want to sacrifice that.

Bigger cams will NOT improve your boost threshold. Bigger cams (in terms of duration) will always push the tuning of the engine's breathing upwards in the rev range unless dialled in specifically (with less overlap) to work at lower revs. But then you hurt the top end, as said above.

Clutch and flywheel will have no effect on anything.

Any tuner SHOULD be able to tune Nistune on an RB20. It really isn't hard. Hell, I tuned my Nistuned RB20 myself in an evening on the dyno and I'd never used Nistune before OR tuned a car before. (OK, so I had some help, but I was still in charge of what was happening). If a tuner can tune a PowerFC then they should have NO trouble with a Nistune.

You could buy an RB20 ECU in Australia (by remote) get the seller to send it to Matt at Nistune. He does the install and sends it to you. Should work out to be OK price wise. You also buy a Consult cable and a Nistune software license from him and put it on your laptop. Get the tuner to tune with your laptop. You may later find that if the tuner wants to do other cars that you can convince him to rent the software from you (say $50 per tune) or buy the license outright from you if you don't want to keep it yourself.

[Blackkers]

RB20's also don't have VCT which puts them roughly 800-1000RPM behind the RB25 in terms of building positive pressure.

GTRS is a good turbo for a RB20, go for it! run it at around 20psi or more if you can for the best mid range performance.
I think you will get full boost before 4000rpm with adjustable cam gears. Poncams probably won't be necessary.

GTRS is known for awesome response on a 25; can't be far off for an RB20, hell they use them in twin form on the RB26

[yoshiii335]

So that means full boost after 3000 rpm?

  On 11/08/2014 at 8:09 AM, GTSBoy said:

The GTRS is pretty responsive on an RB25. The RB20 is down 20% flow on the RB25 so you might expect to need 500rpm more to make the GTRS wake up. That'll mean boost threshold above 3000rpm. I don't know, I'm no expert on that turbo. You really should have a look at the RB20 turbo thread and the RB25 turbo thread (both stickied up the top) to find some results for the GTRS. You'll see.

Cam gears will help you lower the boost threshold if you set them up to do so. Doing so will be at the expense of top end. The GTRS will possibly offer a really good top end on an RB20, so you might not want to sacrifice that.

Bigger cams will NOT improve your boost threshold. Bigger cams (in terms of duration) will always push the tuning of the engine's breathing upwards in the rev range unless dialled in specifically (with less overlap) to work at lower revs. But then you hurt the top end, as said above.

Clutch and flywheel will have no effect on anything.

Any tuner SHOULD be able to tune Nistune on an RB20. It really isn't hard. Hell, I tuned my Nistuned RB20 myself in an evening on the dyno and I'd never used Nistune before OR tuned a car before. (OK, so I had some help, but I was still in charge of what was happening). If a tuner can tune a PowerFC then they should have NO trouble with a Nistune.

You could buy an RB20 ECU in Australia (by remote) get the seller to send it to Matt at Nistune. He does the install and sends it to you. Should work out to be OK price wise. You also buy a Consult cable and a Nistune software license from him and put it on your laptop. Get the tuner to tune with your laptop. You may later find that if the tuner wants to do other cars that you can convince him to rent the software from you (say $50 per tune) or buy the license outright from you if you don't want to keep it yourself.

So that means full boost after 3000 rpm?

Edited August 11, 2014 by yoshiii335

[GTSBoy]

well, yes. But please go read the threads I directed you to. Don't demand to be spoonfed.

[hypergear]

Rb20dets are similar to a S13 SR20det. The ideal turbine will be some thing off a .64 rear. Which our ATR43SS1 and 1.5 are made very specifically for Rb20det that has the OEM bolton pattern.

[yoshiii335]

  On 11/08/2014 at 11:46 AM, hypergear said:

Rb20dets are similar to a S13 SR20det. The ideal turbine will be some thing off a .64 rear. Which our ATR43SS1 and 1.5 are made very specifically for Rb20det that has the OEM bolton pattern.

I looked at the Hypergear Turbos before but the max hp for the one that was referred to me for the rb20 was only 350 hp. I want to go for 400hp. If you have ones that offer good response and can get to 400hp I will look at them again.

[hypergear]

is the 400HP in reference to engine or wheels?

[GTSBoy]

Well....given you can make 300HP at the engine on a standard RB20 turbo at 14 psi.......

[yoshiii335]

  On 11/08/2014 at 8:23 AM, Blackkers said:

RB20's also don't have VCT which puts them roughly 800-1000RPM behind the RB25 in terms of building positive pressure.

GTRS is a good turbo for a RB20, go for it! run it at around 20psi or more if you can for the best mid range performance.

I think you will get full boost before 4000rpm with adjustable cam gears. Poncams probably won't be necessary.

GTRS is known for awesome response on a 25; can't be far off for an RB20, hell they use them in twin form on the RB26

What do I need to do to my engine to be able to turn the boost up to 20 psi?

[yoshiii335]

  On 12/08/2014 at 4:45 AM, GTSBoy said:

Well....given you can make 300HP at the engine on a standard RB20 turbo at 14 psi.......

Really?

I thought it was more like 260 hp? I must have calculated wrong.

That is with pod, full from turbo back exhaust, sports cat, and the boost controller? Oh yeah I am getting a new fuel pump since this car is 24 years old.

Edited August 12, 2014 by yoshiii335

[GTSBoy]

170rwkW is pretty easy typically. Stock turbo, AFM, injectors all start to hit about 100% about there. Divide that by 0.75 to convert to HP....get 226 rwHP. Divide that by 0.75 to account for the typical difference between (Dyno Dynamics) chassis dyno power and engine power, get 302 flywheel HP.

The RB20 AFM is supposed to go a bit higher than that, but I was getting pretty close to 5V on mine at that sort of power level.

[White GTS-T]

I made 170rwkw on the standard turbo at 1 bar with a SAFC. With a Power FC it went up to 180rwkw.

[iruvyouskyrine]

I made 197kw with RB25 turbo, standard injectors and AFM on DVS JEZ who has a DynoTech.

[yoshiii335]

  On 11/08/2014 at 8:09 AM, GTSBoy said:

The GTRS is pretty responsive on an RB25. The RB20 is down 20% flow on the RB25 so you might expect to need 500rpm more to make the GTRS wake up. That'll mean boost threshold above 3000rpm. I don't know, I'm no expert on that turbo. You really should have a look at the RB20 turbo thread and the RB25 turbo thread (both stickied up the top) to find some results for the GTRS. You'll see.

Cam gears will help you lower the boost threshold if you set them up to do so. Doing so will be at the expense of top end. The GTRS will possibly offer a really good top end on an RB20, so you might not want to sacrifice that.

Bigger cams will NOT improve your boost threshold. Bigger cams (in terms of duration) will always push the tuning of the engine's breathing upwards in the rev range unless dialled in specifically (with less overlap) to work at lower revs. But then you hurt the top end, as said above.

Clutch and flywheel will have no effect on anything.

Any tuner SHOULD be able to tune Nistune on an RB20. It really isn't hard. Hell, I tuned my Nistuned RB20 myself in an evening on the dyno and I'd never used Nistune before OR tuned a car before. (OK, so I had some help, but I was still in charge of what was happening). If a tuner can tune a PowerFC then they should have NO trouble with a Nistune.

You could buy an RB20 ECU in Australia (by remote) get the seller to send it to Matt at Nistune. He does the install and sends it to you. Should work out to be OK price wise. You also buy a Consult cable and a Nistune software license from him and put it on your laptop. Get the tuner to tune with your laptop. You may later find that if the tuner wants to do other cars that you can convince him to rent the software from you (say $50 per tune) or buy the license outright from you if you don't want to keep it yourself.

I do want to learn how to tune. I just dont know what I am looking for and what to change when tuning. So basicly the Nistune has the maps and all like any other tune computer, and you just adjust the values for it?

I just dont want to kill the car.

Ill try it myself if it is possible.

[yoshiii335]

  On 12/08/2014 at 4:36 AM, hypergear said:

is the 400HP in reference to engine or wheels?

To the engine

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

  On 12/08/2014 at 5:49 AM, yoshiii335 said:

I do want to learn how to tune. I just dont know what I am looking for and what to change when tuning. So basicly the Nistune has the maps and all like any other tune computer, and you just adjust the values for it?

I just dont want to kill the car.

Ill try it myself if it is possible.

Start reading books before you start anything. If you don't understand basic engine combustion principles then you'll kill the car