Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am also running a NPC clutch but just the heavy duty organic and it's holding 250rwkw fine and the pedal feel is light and good for the street. There service is also awesome.

Edited by DoseVader

spoke with Doug @ NPC, he recommended the 10" organic like everyone else has, i assume its the same carbotic plate and will hold 300rwkw comfortably.

Thanks guys!

Organic and carbotic are different.

spoke with Doug @ NPC, he recommended the 10" organic like everyone else has, i assume its the same carbotic plate and will hold 300rwkw comfortably.

Thanks guys!

Same clutch in the stagea (organic not carbotic) very nice to use.

I am also running a NPC clutch but just the heavy duty organic and it's holding 250rwkw fine and the pedal feel is light and good for the street. There service is also awesome.

Same here, been running NPC 10"-HD organic with a manual conversion for about a year at 275rwkw, holding up well, including 40 laps of Sandown on a track day.

+1 for good service, too.

I installed a 10inch carbotic clutch with a lighter flywheel many months ago and took it out for its first drive last weekend! Wow pretty much drives like a stock clutch alot better than the shitty xtreame shuttery POS. Could not be happier with the product so far.

Can't wait to get a full tune to she how it all goes together!

  • 4 weeks later...

called npc up today and they quoted 2500 for their twin plate +$500 for the pull-push converter. based on what they had said over the phone they didn't think the single could handle 350kwatw

thinking of the Nismo twinplate but need one this week...

  • Like 1

Nah it just holds the intermediate plate and cover (pressure plate) and stops them from spinning relative to the engine. Probably better to google image it because i'm not explaining it well.

If NPC say what they sold you is good for 400-450, then i'd be confident it is.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Do you plan on using 98 or e85?
    • This should be pretty easy. 200rwkW is just about the max power out of an RB25 stock turbo. So, 12ish psi on a 2.5L. That boost limited mainly by the prospect of seeing the turbine in the cat after the smoke show. A steel wheeled equivalent would likely happily do ~220rwkW at something like 17 psi, where it would probably be bumping into the usual limits of such a sized turbo. These things have like a .48 rear. You will not need the 0.86 rear. The 0.64 will be fine. In fact, if you were looking at various mid-200rwkW options for RBs, most of them would be in a 0.64 rear. So, I think you will definitely want to be no bigger than that for a same sized but probably even more efficient (at making power) modern engine.
    • Change the subframe bushes, transforms the car.
    • For something a little more serious, Davinci Resolve is about the best there is for free video editors. No expiration dates or watermarks, completely free.
    • Well, it's taken me until the last week of 2024 to actually do something on the Skyline but I consider it a good head start to 2025's efforts! I managed to justify (to myself anyway...) my purchase of the lift table. It made taking the rear subframe out a lot easier than it would have been without anyway! Everything is out and stripped down ready for a clean then powdercoating.  She's pretty grubby under there but pretty good condition for a 38 year old Japanese tin bucket. 12 years of zero street time have obviously helped that... I need to decide which of the factory suspension arms I will keep and replace so I only get what I'm keeping powdercoated.  Baby steps but it's a start!  
×
×
  • Create New...