Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI All,

As title states I bought a r33 gtsts manual conversion and it came with this ecu, Not that I plan to use it was just a bonus thrown in but I am interested if anyone can identify it the blue heat sink looks to be either not original or someone has played with it or just Nissan are shoddy with there work.

Has very neat hole cut in it but from my knowledge if a nistune board has been fitted it is the aux board that the interface clips into not where it has been cut to expose the lower board pin like this one has.

Anyway if anyone can shed some light from the part numbers ect I am more curious as the guy I bought the conversion of is adamant the car went (he has no reason to lie as I bought gearbox not engine or ecu) and it looks nothing like my r33 one when I opened that up.

Cheers lads and ladets

post-133356-0-04098200-1407801063_thumb.jpg

post-133356-0-10690300-1407801068_thumb.jpg

post-133356-0-91914400-1407801074_thumb.jpg

post-133356-0-01110900-1407801080_thumb.jpg

post-133356-0-53381700-1407801085_thumb.jpg

post-133356-0-85727600-1407801090_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446717-help-with-ecu-id/
Share on other sites

Thanks for that GTSboy it has me miffed as a lot of it looks identical to mine when I opened it up but the alloy side bit has a hole in it with a + and - and hole that looks like you turn a dial but in the ecu on the card there is nothing to turn.

Well anyone else able to help me with what I have ?

If there's a screwdriver hole with +/- on it then it is possibly a case (at least the bottom of the case, not the lid) from an earlier ECU. That was the idle speed adjustment on R32ish era stuff. I don't know if it was still there on R33 ECUs because I haven't really played with them (why would I? They're only good for paperweights!).

cheers

na it doesn't have it on my 33 ecu I am mainly curious as to why there is the cut out like you can hook up to it as its in the wrong spot for anything I am familiar with.

I also did a google images of Z32 240sx and r32 stuff and it doesn't match any images I could find the car it came of was fairly stock as in still had low mount manifold ect so I cant see why it would have any weird ecu in it

Well the plot thickens I figured if anyone knew what it was itd be the guys at Nistune Matt confirmed the sticker same as GTSboy and that the case witht he + - same but the inside he had NFI and stated he had never seen anything like it before it actually runs the car all be it rough as I have a few mods that a stock ecu would run rough on to.

SOOOOO now that even the experts don't know what it is I actually care and want to know (yes curious) before I throw it out lol

Got a 6 pack riding on an answer will drop of to anyone local to me 3804 and I mean local not a hour each way

Yea HR32 you were in first with right answer, I figured it out the night I posted this up as I removed back of the cover and it was just written there it is a link g1 gts ecu ive checked numbers and she is fully programmable.

I am however looking for a link serial link so i can play with this on me dyno so if any of you have one sing out i only want to borrow it so i can copy it and return.

Sorry everyone but no chance id throw this little gem away and the best part was i got it thrown in with a manual conversion i purchased and the guy said and i quote "here you can have the ecu its got a hole in it f**k knows what that's about" i knew there was something about it one doesn't just cut a hole in there ecu

On a different note Matt aka HR32GTS where are you located as i may have to drop a sixer of as a promise is a promise.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...