Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI All,

As title states I bought a r33 gtsts manual conversion and it came with this ecu, Not that I plan to use it was just a bonus thrown in but I am interested if anyone can identify it the blue heat sink looks to be either not original or someone has played with it or just Nissan are shoddy with there work.

Has very neat hole cut in it but from my knowledge if a nistune board has been fitted it is the aux board that the interface clips into not where it has been cut to expose the lower board pin like this one has.

Anyway if anyone can shed some light from the part numbers ect I am more curious as the guy I bought the conversion of is adamant the car went (he has no reason to lie as I bought gearbox not engine or ecu) and it looks nothing like my r33 one when I opened that up.

Cheers lads and ladets

post-133356-0-04098200-1407801063_thumb.jpg

post-133356-0-10690300-1407801068_thumb.jpg

post-133356-0-91914400-1407801074_thumb.jpg

post-133356-0-01110900-1407801080_thumb.jpg

post-133356-0-53381700-1407801085_thumb.jpg

post-133356-0-85727600-1407801090_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446717-help-with-ecu-id/
Share on other sites

Thanks for that GTSboy it has me miffed as a lot of it looks identical to mine when I opened it up but the alloy side bit has a hole in it with a + and - and hole that looks like you turn a dial but in the ecu on the card there is nothing to turn.

Well anyone else able to help me with what I have ?

If there's a screwdriver hole with +/- on it then it is possibly a case (at least the bottom of the case, not the lid) from an earlier ECU. That was the idle speed adjustment on R32ish era stuff. I don't know if it was still there on R33 ECUs because I haven't really played with them (why would I? They're only good for paperweights!).

cheers

na it doesn't have it on my 33 ecu I am mainly curious as to why there is the cut out like you can hook up to it as its in the wrong spot for anything I am familiar with.

I also did a google images of Z32 240sx and r32 stuff and it doesn't match any images I could find the car it came of was fairly stock as in still had low mount manifold ect so I cant see why it would have any weird ecu in it

Well the plot thickens I figured if anyone knew what it was itd be the guys at Nistune Matt confirmed the sticker same as GTSboy and that the case witht he + - same but the inside he had NFI and stated he had never seen anything like it before it actually runs the car all be it rough as I have a few mods that a stock ecu would run rough on to.

SOOOOO now that even the experts don't know what it is I actually care and want to know (yes curious) before I throw it out lol

Got a 6 pack riding on an answer will drop of to anyone local to me 3804 and I mean local not a hour each way

Yea HR32 you were in first with right answer, I figured it out the night I posted this up as I removed back of the cover and it was just written there it is a link g1 gts ecu ive checked numbers and she is fully programmable.

I am however looking for a link serial link so i can play with this on me dyno so if any of you have one sing out i only want to borrow it so i can copy it and return.

Sorry everyone but no chance id throw this little gem away and the best part was i got it thrown in with a manual conversion i purchased and the guy said and i quote "here you can have the ecu its got a hole in it f**k knows what that's about" i knew there was something about it one doesn't just cut a hole in there ecu

On a different note Matt aka HR32GTS where are you located as i may have to drop a sixer of as a promise is a promise.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The water pump is know to leak as well. So if the coolant is low checking that first as well as hoses. 
    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
×
×
  • Create New...