Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello

I am installing a HKS EVC VI into my R32 GTS-T car.

Everything is just about hooked up.

The boost controller has the option of having the throttle control and rpm settings work with the boost control settings.

This envoles splicing into the computer harness.

Is it worth having the throttle control and rpm settings to be able to work with the boost controller setting?

Do you want it set that way?

The fact you are asking to me means you don't need it

Doesn't the throttle control boost anyway?

It allows you to set the boost setting based on what the throttle position is.

Does this give better performance vs just setting the boost level?

You also don't have a measurable TPS that you could use on an R32. The ECU's TPS on an R32 is only closed and open switch - not variable resistance to show opening %. There is a second TPS on auto R32s for the TCU. On manuals it is not wired to anything.

You could monitor the revs easily enough. There is a tacho output from the ECU which is easy enough to tap into. Setting up rev dependent boost levels is a bit of a pain in the arse though. The only useful reason you'd do it is if you were also monitoring vehicle speed and using it to give gear dependent boost (ie lower boost in 1st).

You also don't have a measurable TPS that you could use on an R32. The ECU's TPS on an R32 is only closed and open switch - not variable resistance to show opening %. There is a second TPS on auto R32s for the TCU. On manuals it is not wired to anything.

You could monitor the revs easily enough. There is a tacho output from the ECU which is easy enough to tap into. Setting up rev dependent boost levels is a bit of a pain in the arse though. The only useful reason you'd do it is if you were also monitoring vehicle speed and using it to give gear dependent boost (ie lower boost in 1st).

ok

TPS is Throttle Position Switch?

So not worth connecting those wires than?

TPS is either Throttle Position Switch (in an R32) or Throttle Position Sensor (in cars that have a variable resistance output, like R33 onwards, and many other cars).

If you have the unused auto TPS(ensor) on your car, you could hook it up, but you'd probably need to get 5V to it because I don't think they're powered up on the manuals at all, and it all starts to sound like a pain in the arse and I just wouldn't bother.

TPS is either Throttle Position Switch (in an R32) or Throttle Position Sensor (in cars that have a variable resistance output, like R33 onwards, and many other cars).

If you have the unused auto TPS(ensor) on your car, you could hook it up, but you'd probably need to get 5V to it because I don't think they're powered up on the manuals at all, and it all starts to sound like a pain in the arse and I just wouldn't bother.

Ok

Thanks

Can anyone offer some boost settings suggestions please? I know max I can boost the stock turbo is 14psi, so how should I set it up? If I leave the boost controller in basic mode I can set low and high boost.

The car is a daily driver and I drive through traffic lots coming and going to work. I use the highways on the weekends. But I want to be quick on the street and on the highway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A work around is to install the R35 card style AFM/MAF on the cold side of the intercooler piping and the BOV on the hot side piping. Works well, also you can combat the revs dropping by adding a bit more ignition timing on the idle ignition timing table to slow the rate of RPM drop.
    • Understood. If you dont have a ridiculous limit,  Tune, T's and P's are in check, and arent bashing it all the time and doing the due deligence for maintenance(inc oil analysis) then its pretty safe. 100% agree, let your right food control it to some extent.
    • So these external kits with the machined block for remote solenoid mount will only work on a NEO head and RB30 or RB26 bottom end   For an R33 head on a 26 bottom end the remote vct kit is to resolve RB26 manifold adaptor plates etc  IF you try to use the remote VCT on an RB30 or RB26 bottom end with an R33 head then  you can starve the cam journal??? I have one of these kits from bits I had years ago before plans changed  I don't understand how that tracks with this video   https://youtu.be/RuPiI22Mplk?feature=shared   This looks like I can run the v termite vct kit to feed the VCT on an R33 head on an RB26 bottom end?!?!?   Lol.... don't v have these problems on RB20s
    • Yeah i know that MAF is no no for this type of BoV. The engine has no BoV and "hose/pipes" ..it was all deleted (or probably it was not even on the engine when it was bought  ) It does that "sutututu" noise which i kinda do not want(atmospheric is better IMO...but standalone ECU)  What are the cons of running without blow off on stock RB25DET NEO. It running 5-7 PSI max (it has boost controller)   EDIT: and can Nistune be "tuned" to know there is no BoV to i dont know "know" and be better for a car? I read so many info about no BoV. One guy saying it is bad and hurting the turbo/engine/car and other that it does not...  
    • Yeah. OK. I'll say the same thing I say to everyone. You do not have to use 100% throttle all the time.
×
×
  • Create New...