Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello

I have a r32 gts-t with pod, fmic return flow, full 3 inch turbo back exhaust with a split turbo down pipe, sports cat, after market blow off valve, coil packs moved to the outside of the engine next to the wind shield wiper motor with some kind of aftermarket ignition wires connecting them and the spark plugs( this was done by the previous owner), Nismo 2 Way LSD and now a electronic boost controller.

Besides getting a bigger turbo, metal head gasket, bigger injectors and higher flowing fuel pump, adjustable cam gears, after market cams, and a tune, what else can I do to increase the performance of this car? Engine wise or otherwise?

I want to keep up with Toyota MK IIs, Toyota Crowns, WRX STI, EVOs, Cameros, Chargers, Challangers and 370 Zs.

8" wide wheels, sticky tyres, teflon brake lines, BMC stopper, better pads, new brake fluid, full set of new suspension bushes, adjustable caster rods, HICAS delete.

All these things should get done before adding power.

8" wide wheels, sticky tyres, teflon brake lines, BMC stopper, better pads, new brake fluid, full set of new suspension bushes, adjustable caster rods, HICAS delete.

All these things should get done before adding power.

Ok thanks

I have the hiscas delete, I am looking into Federals for the sticky tyres, I am looking into the steel brake lines, had to change the front upper arms to Nismo, my car failed inspection because a stock arm was bad. Nissan Japan wide was out of stock upper arms and they said that the Nismo bushing would not fit stock arms. So I ordered the Nismo upper arms. I am going to put Nismo suspension on. I have the rear upper arms also. So buying all of the arms slowly.

My shocks are HKS Hypermax IIIs. Are adjustable caster rods the same as tie rod ends(pillow ball ends)? If so I dont want to put aftermarket on again. My first r32 gts-t I put aftermarket adjustable ones on and it was great for cornering but the ride sucked. Its was too hard.

I am looking into the BMC stopper also.

I put the metal subframe bushing spacers on the whole rear subframe to help until I get the new bushings from Nismo.

8" tires would be 225's? I have 214 17 45 on the front and 225( or 235) 17 45 on the back. I think I have AA rated tires on front and back. They are good brands. But I am going for the Federals.

Thanks

Edited by yoshiii335

Caster rods are the rods that run forward from the (front) lower control arms to the front ends of the chassis rails. They control the fore-aft motion of the front suspension (ie there should be none!). When they are not adjustable (stock) they do not allow you to adjust caster - they just set it at whatever the factory decided was good +/- the huge amount of slop provided by the OEM hydrolastic bushes. Adjustable caster rods (which would have rose joints on the front end, yes) are much much better. They allow you to add a little extra caster (always desirable) and they replace the sloppy bush with a nice hard metal joint. Because of where they are they don't actually take a lot of the ride load, so they don't contribute to vibration and harshness. I use them. I would not put rose jointed suspension arms anywhere else on a road car though.

8" wide wheels means 8" wide wheels. Not tyres. The tyres you then put on thos wheels are somewhat up to you, especially depending on whether you choose 16", 17" or 18" wheels. 16x8 is same size as R32 GTR and works well with the standard GTR tyre size of 225/50-16. 17x8 is same as R32 GTR Vspec and works well with 235/45-17. These are both alomst exactly the same rolling diameter as the original GTSt size (205/55-16).

When you say "Federal" - which tyre are you talking about? The RSR or something else?

Caster rods are the rods that run forward from the (front) lower control arms to the front ends of the chassis rails. They control the fore-aft motion of the front suspension (ie there should be none!). When they are not adjustable (stock) they do not allow you to adjust caster - they just set it at whatever the factory decided was good +/- the huge amount of slop provided by the OEM hydrolastic bushes. Adjustable caster rods (which would have rose joints on the front end, yes) are much much better. They allow you to add a little extra caster (always desirable) and they replace the sloppy bush with a nice hard metal joint. Because of where they are they don't actually take a lot of the ride load, so they don't contribute to vibration and harshness. I use them. I would not put rose jointed suspension arms anywhere else on a road car though.

8" wide wheels means 8" wide wheels. Not tyres. The tyres you then put on thos wheels are somewhat up to you, especially depending on whether you choose 16", 17" or 18" wheels. 16x8 is same size as R32 GTR and works well with the standard GTR tyre size of 225/50-16. 17x8 is same as R32 GTR Vspec and works well with 235/45-17. These are both alomst exactly the same rolling diameter as the original GTSt size (205/55-16).

When you say "Federal" - which tyre are you talking about? The RSR or something else?

Yes the RSR, the sticky ones.

Oh ok I understand now. How about the Nismo caster arms? If I do put adjusting I can only go with IKEYA formula, because they are the only aftermarket suspension parts company that is legal for road use besides Nismo.

Ok wheel size.

So for the 17x8 the 235/45-17 can fit on the front or is this the back?

Edited by yoshiii335

Ikeya Formula caster rods will be perfect. I wouldn't use the Nismo ones. They're just a version of the OEM one effectively.

17x8 and 235/45-17 will fit all the way around the car. You do not want smaller tyres at the front of an R32 anyway. R32s tend to like to understeer. You need all the tyre you can get at both ends.

Whatever If you dont want to post dont, how do you know what I am listening to or not?

I among others have given you plenty of advice but you continue to ask the same questions..

also try google.jp once in a while

I among others have given you plenty of advice but you continue to ask the same questions..

also try google.jp once in a while

Thank you for any all advice you have given me, but the questions I am asking are ones that I have never asked before. I haved learned lots and now have a clearer understanding of what is good to do.

Thank you for any all advice you have given me, but the questions I am asking are ones that I have never asked before. I haved learned lots and now have a clearer understanding of what is good to do.

I think you will find that the main issue that people are having with your many threads is that, whilst they are questions that YOU have never asked here before, they are in fact questions that have been asked on here MANY times before. As such, the answers already exist in written form that you can read if you'd just search.

I, myself, have been quite forebearing with you instead of arking up at you and telling you to search. The frustration of Blakkers and co is starting to become apparent however. In addition, you keep coming back talking about cams and cam gears and so on in the new threads, despite having been told in previous threads that cams will not help you.

  • Like 1

I think you will find that the main issue that people are having with your many threads is that, whilst they are questions that YOU have never asked here before, they are in fact questions that have been asked on here MANY times before. As such, the answers already exist in written form that you can read if you'd just search.

I, myself, have been quite forebearing with you instead of arking up at you and telling you to search. The frustration of Blakkers and co is starting to become apparent however. In addition, you keep coming back talking about cams and cam gears and so on in the new threads, despite having been told in previous threads that cams will not help you.

Hello

I have researched here and on other forums but the questions I have specifically there are no clear answers. I have spent hours researching on this site and others. If I ask questions, its because I cannot find the answer or I dont understand.

Thank you for helping, I have learned lots.

Copy this

-->> XXXX site:www.skylinesaustralia.com <<--

into google, replacing XXXX with whatever it is you want to search. It is much better than the standard forum search. Examples below.

r32 gtst turbo upgrade site:www.skylinesaustralia.com

blitz intercooler site:www.skylinesaustralia.com

rb20det gearbox strength site:www.skylinesaustralia.com

Hello

I have a r32 gts-t with pod, fmic return flow, full 3 inch turbo back exhaust with a split turbo down pipe, sports cat, after market blow off valve, coil packs moved to the outside of the engine next to the wind shield wiper motor with some kind of aftermarket ignition wires connecting them and the spark plugs( this was done by the previous owner), Nismo 2 Way LSD and now a electronic boost controller.

Besides getting a bigger turbo, metal head gasket, bigger injectors and higher flowing fuel pump, adjustable cam gears, after market cams, and a tune, what else can I do to increase the performance of this car? Engine wise or otherwise?

I want to keep up with Toyota MK IIs, Toyota Crowns, WRX STI, EVOs, Cameros, Chargers, Challangers and 370 Zs.

MORE BOOST!

Hello

I have a r32 gts-t with pod, fmic return flow, full 3 inch turbo back exhaust with a split turbo down pipe, sports cat, after market blow off valve, coil packs moved to the outside of the engine next to the wind shield wiper motor with some kind of aftermarket ignition wires connecting them and the spark plugs( this was done by the previous owner), Nismo 2 Way LSD and now a electronic boost controller.

Besides getting a bigger turbo, metal head gasket, bigger injectors and higher flowing fuel pump, adjustable cam gears, after market cams, and a tune, what else can I do to increase the performance of this car? Engine wise or otherwise?

I want to keep up with Toyota MK IIs, Toyota Crowns, WRX STI, EVOs, Cameros, Chargers, Challangers and 370 Zs.

Where are you? Canada?

It would not be hard to keep up with Chargers and Challengers, lol. Most are V6s, most of the V8 ones are R/Ts which are 4000lb cars with 375 crank hp and 5 speed auto trans. Modded STIs or stock?

If you want to keep up with those cars you might be able to do it with your mods now + powerfc and boost controller. However you probably will be needing a turbo upgrade like you said you are going to get. I don't see what you need to ask here, everything is obvious. Brakes, tires, suspension, etc you have everything else. IDK what laws are in Japan but on my car in the US I have 235/45/17 f and 255/40/17 r setup on Kumho Ecsta XS tires which most local autocross people use and they are exellent and inexpensive. Only needed to roll the rear.

Rb25 Neo

GTX42

E85

Overkill.

Thanks

But too expensive for the conversion here in Japan. Plus the yearly taxes involved the registration fee. Better to put a 26 if going to pay the money.

You live in Japan as a citizen or english teacher or are you like some American in the military or something? I wouldn't own this car if I lived in Japan and wasn't in the US military, the amount you have to pay isn't worth what you get in a RB20 car as there are many many many better options. Unless you are american and want to bring it back with you you have picked the wrong car to make massive power and drag race new Camaros and Mustangs.

Edited by Kanaric

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've got the rear ones, they're certainly beefy. I need to take them to my driveshaft guru to check over, he's very fussy about the quality of components so I'll let you know if they are made of cheese by a blind man.   Are you in Australia? A mate just had a set of EN26 shafts made for his K20 Lotus by our fabricator which were quite cheap (compared to Driveshaft Shop) so if you can procure the CV's and draw what you need he'd make them for ~$800 for the pair.
    • Had I known the diff between R32 and R33 suspension I would have R33 suspension. That ship has sailed so I'm doing my best to replicate a drop spindle without spending $4k on a Billet one.
    • OEM suspension starts to bind as soon as the car gets away from stock height. I locked in the caster and camber before cutting off the kingpin. I then let the upright down in a natural (unbound) state before re-attaching it. Now it moves freely in bump and droop relative to the new ride height. My plan is to add GKTech arms before the car is finished so I can dial camber and caster further. It will be fine. This isn't rocket science. Caster looks good, camber is good, upper arm doesn't cause crazy gain and it is now closer to the stock angle and bump steer checks out. Send it.
    • Pay careful attention to the kinematics of that upper arm. The bloody things don't work properly even on a normal stock height R32. Nissan really screwed the pooch on that one. The fixes have included changing the hole locations on the bracket to change the angle of the inner pivot (which was fairly successful but usually makes it impossible to install or remove the arm without unbolting the bracket from the tower, which sucks) and various swivelling upper arm designs. ALL the swivelling upper arm designs that look like a capital I (with serifs) suck. All of them. Some of them are in fact terribly unsafe. Even the best one of them (the old UAS design) shat itself in short order on my car. The only upper arm that works as advertised and is pretty safe is the GKTech one. But it is high maintenance on a street car. I'm guessing that a 600HP car as (stupidly, IMO) low as you are going is not going to be a regular driver. So the maintenance issues on suspension parts are probably not going to be a problem. But you really must make sure that however your fairly drastically modded suspension ends up, that the upper arms swing through an arc that wants to keep the inner and outer bolts parallel. If the outer end travels through an arc that makes that end's bolt want to skew away from parallel with the inner bolt, you will build up enormous binding and compressing forces in the bushes, chew them out and hate life. The suspension compliance can actually be dominated by the bush binding, not the spring rate! It may be the case that even something like the GKTech arm won't work if your suspension kinematics become too weird, courtesy of all the cut and shut going on. Although you at least say there's no binding now, so maybe you're OK. Seeing as you're in the build phase, you could consider using R33/4 type upper arms (either that actual arm, OEM or aftermarket) or any similar wishbone designed to suit your available space, so alleviate the silliness of the R32 design. Then you can locate your inner pivots to provide the correct kinematics (camber gain on compression, etc).
    • The frontend wouldn't go low enough because the coilover was max low and the upper control arm would collapse into itself and potentially bottom out in the strut tower. I made a brace and cut off the kingpin and then moved the upright down 1.25" and welded. i still have to finish but this gives an idea. Now I can have a normal 3.25" of shock travel and things aren't binding. I'm also dropping the lower arm and tie rod 1.25".
×
×
  • Create New...