Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Up for sale is my pride and joy. 1992 R32 Gtst with RB26 single turbo conversion. I have spent endless amounts of time and money on this car and will be very sad to see go but it is time to sell so I can start a new project. I have slowly built this car up for the last 4 years and have spent the money to do everything right the first time. The cars tuned by Sean at EFI performance currently making 625hp at the wheels @ 27psi (soft tune on gate pressure) there is still more power to come out of this car. Modifications are as per below

ENGINE: ~ (only done 1500kms)

  • R33 block (prepped, acid bathed, honed 40thou)
  • Linished crank
  • Eagle Rods
  • CP Pistons (with oversized rings to suit)
  • ARP rod bolts
  • ACL race series bearings
  • Fully blueprinted & balanced rotating assembly
  • ATI balancer
  • Tomei oil pump (with extended pickup)
  • Modified sump (removal of front diff)
  • Tomei sump baffles
  • N1 water pump
  • R34 Head - recently refreshed including Port and polished
  • New Valves
  • Supertech double row titanium valve springs and retainers
  • HKS 264/272 cams
  • Tomei adjustable cam gears
  • HKS Timing belt
  • ARP Head studs
  • Precision 6765DBBSP with 1.0AR rear housing (Billet, Anti surge porting, Dual Ball bearing core)
  • Custom T4 Split pulse steampipe manifold
  • Precision 46mm wastegate (fabricated into rear housing for better boost control)
  • Braided oil feed
  • Braided -12 oil drain
  • 4” S/S Intake
  • 4” S/S Dump pipe
  • 5” S/S Catalytic convertor (100cpi)
  • 4”S/S Complete exhaust (exiting thru - 4” straight or Varex muffler)
  • 3” S/S Hot & Cold cooler piping
  • 600x300x100mm thick intercooler
  • Twin Electric thermo fans 1x 14” & 1x 12” (trigger setup with ecu)
  • Fuel Setup for E85 (tuned for running pump United atm)
  • Bosch 2200cc injectors
  • ½ Size injector extenders (to suit fuel rail)
  • Alloy 14mm fuel rail (feed each end, return center of rail)
  • Fuel lab fuel regulator (with pressure gauge)
  • 2 x -6 feed lines (Black Speedflow fuel hose)
  • 1 x -6 return line (Black Speedflow fuel hose)
  • Custom 7L surge tank
  • Walbro intank lift pump
  • 2 x Bosch 044 fuel pumps
  • 2 x inline fuel filters (removable cartrages)
  • Modified R33 GTR gear box (transfer case modified for RWD only)
  • HKS twin plate clutch (with upgraded pressure plate)
  • Custom 1 piece strengthened tailshaft
  • Wolf v550 ECU
  • 3 bar map sensor
  • 2J2 wide band and engine controller (with shift light, engine temp, oil pressure, AFR warning lights)
  • Apexi AVCR
  • Greddy 3way boost solenoid
  • Techedge wideband gauge (digital and sweep display)
  • Autometer cobolt boost gauge (vac & 45psi boost sweep)
  • Water temp / oil pressure gauges
  • 52mm Alloy radiator
  • Oil filter relocation kit (with -10 braided lines)
  • 19 row oil cooler
  • Battery to boot (with isolator switch)
  • Custom reservoirs and tanks (return to sump catch can setup, 2 in 1 Radiator overflow washer bottle setup)
  • Wiring eliminated from engine bay
  • Work Meister SP1 18x9 +26 / 18x 10 +26
  • DBA slotted front rotors
  • Tein Front castor rods
  • Adjustable camber arms front and rear
  • Hicas lock bar
  • Greddy type R coilovers (8kg front / 6kg rear)
  • Fiberglass GTR front bar
  • URAS S1 Side skirts
  • R32 Gtst rear pods
  • Carbon N1 boot lip
  • Blitz fiberglass bonnet (bonnet pins and bonnet latch both operational)
  • Minor pumped rear guards
  • White EL dial cluster (blue led backlighting)
  • Nardi deep dish steering wheel
  • Dvd player
  • Fusion splits front and rear

ETC. ETC. ETC. ETC. ETC.

I have most probably have forgot some things aswell. Has mods plates for everything on the car. Has 6 months fresh rego on it. No tyre kickers or test pilots only serious buyers, no time wasters.

Chasing - $18000 ONO

PM me or contact on 0401499065

post-73949-0-78184800-1407892465_thumb.jpgpost-73949-0-72813400-1407892313_thumb.jpgpost-73949-0-83391600-1407892332_thumb.jpgpost-73949-0-79333800-1407892441_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446754-r32-rb26-skyline-fully-built-600-hp/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...