Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1. No, I don't think the 255 would be a good idea for E85 at that power level.

2. The newer ones are safe.  The 255 isn't really big enough anyway, so the question is moot.

3. Yup.  Reasonable choice.  Downsides of a truly oversized pump are excessive heating of the fuel.  The 460 isn't really all that oversized.  If you were unlucky enough to experience any problems from hot fuel, you could plumb in a fuel cooler in the return, or invest in a voltage controller.

4. Don't buy from ebay.  Buy from someone off here who you trust.  Such as Scotty.

  • Like 1
Just now, GTSBoy said:

1. No, I don't think the 255 would be a good idea for E85 at that power level.

2. The newer ones are safe.  The 255 isn't really big enough anyway, so the question is moot.

3. Yup.  Reasonable choice.  Downsides of a truly oversized pump are excessive heating of the fuel.  The 460 isn't really all that oversized.  If you were unlucky enough to experience any problems from hot fuel, you could plumb in a fuel cooler in the return, or invest in a voltage controller.

4. Don't buy from ebay.  Buy from someone off here who you trust.  Such as Scotty.

X2 agree with all points made by GTSBOY..

Those 460's are power hungry, so make sure you run appropriate wiring to them, they will eat 20amp... if its in tank remove the electrical fittings and fit post type terminals to cope with the higher power demand.

  • Like 1
10 minutes ago, Unkn0wn said:

X2 agree with all points made by GTSBOY..

Those 460's are power hungry, so make sure you run appropriate wiring to them, they will eat 20amp... if its in tank remove the electrical fittings and fit post type terminals to cope with the higher power demand.

Awesome thanks guys, great input!

A new pump it is then. Are there any other options besides the Walbro 460LPH you might recommend? I had a quick look but couldn't work out if Bosch makes an in-tank one.

I run a dw340 in mine, is fine for 310rwkw and has been going for around 18 months without issue. Good if your worried about current draw or fuel heating. Bad side is they are pricey for what they are and you could probably get a walbro 460 cheaper. I managed to get my dw cheap which is why it was an easy decision for me.

The walbro 255 will handle e85 although not recommended but isn't big enough for the task. Scotty has been running a pair on his vq25 stagea for years now.

Does this mean you're now keeping your car?

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

4. Don't buy from ebay.  Buy from someone off here who you trust.  Such as Scotty.

Or from Kudos Motorsports (Skyline Specialist) or from EFI Solutions aka TAARKS (Nissan Silvia specialist but has shit tons of OEM Skyline parts too).

Both Australian, both are awesome to deal with.

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, admS15 said:

I run a dw340 in mine, is fine for 310rwkw and has been going for around 18 months without issue. Good if your worried about current draw or fuel heating. Bad side is they are pricey for what they are and you could probably get a walbro 460 cheaper. I managed to get my dw cheap which is why it was an easy decision for me.

The walbro 255 will handle e85 although not recommended but isn't big enough for the task. Scotty has been running a pair on his vq25 stagea for years now.

Does this mean you're now keeping your car?

Thanks mate! Yeah looking at the prices the DW is probably ~$100 more than the Walbro 460. I'll probably rewire again with large gauge cable so current should be ok, however the fuel heating is of potential concern - does that happen when a high capacity pump is running at just a fraction of its capacity (ie. recirculating back into fuel tank)?

Re keeping the car, there are no takers at the moment so I'm thinking 'just one more mod' - famous last words haha. Plus maybe it'll sell better at 300+rwkw? :6_smile:

58 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Or from Kudos Motorsports (Skyline Specialist) or from EFI Solutions aka TAARKS (Nissan Silvia specialist but has shit tons of OEM Skyline parts too).

Both Australian, both are awesome to deal with.

Cheers Johnny, I've ordered heaps from Kudos over the years and definitely agree.

Looks like they are listing the original F9000267: http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/fuel-pump-tank-walbro-f9000267-450ltrhr-compatible-nissan-200sx-skyline-gts25-25gt-p-1218.html

Whereas EFI have the successor F90000274: https://www.efisolutions.com.au/walbro-450-l-hr-fuel-pump-kit-s14-s15-r33

I'm guessing the F90000274 is the pick since it's newer technology?

3 hours ago, Unkn0wn said:

...

Those 460's are power hungry, so make sure you run appropriate wiring to them, they will eat 20amp... if its in tank remove the electrical fittings and fit post type terminals to cope with the higher power demand.

Thanks! Yeah the wiring in the Walbro pics looks positively skinny - are you suggesting cutting it at/close to the pump and running larger gauge inside the fuel tank also?

Thanks mate! Yeah looking at the prices the DW is probably ~$100 more than the Walbro 460. I'll probably rewire again with large gauge cable so current should be ok, however the fuel heating is of potential concern - does that happen when a high capacity pump is running at just a fraction of its capacity (ie. recirculating back into fuel tank)?
Re keeping the car, there are no takers at the moment so I'm thinking 'just one more mod' - famous last words haha. Plus maybe it'll sell better at 300+rwkw? :6_smile:
Yep, one more mod. E85, 300rwkw will help sell, increase value of the car, i am guilty of telling those things to my wife too[emoji6].

The truth is, a stockish car at a low price is the easiest to sell.

Good to hear you're keeping and going to enjoy it a while longer[emoji106]

So are you thinking flexfuel? I would strongly recommend it for the added flexibility and never having to worry about not being able to get fuel.

Sent from my A1601 using SAU Community mobile app

48 minutes ago, V28VX37 said:

 are you suggesting cutting it at/close to the pump and running larger gauge inside the fuel tank also?

The suggestion is to put new passthrough terminals onto the tank lid so as not to try to pass 1 bazzilion amps through the original ones.  And then, yes, fat wires both sides.

Yep, one more mod. E85, 300rwkw will help sell, increase value of the car, i am guilty of telling those things to my wife too[emoji6].

The truth is, a stockish car at a low price is the easiest to sell.

Good to hear you're keeping and going to enjoy it a while longer[emoji106]

So are you thinking flexfuel? I would strongly recommend it for the added flexibility and never having to worry about not being able to get fuel.

Sent from my A1601 using SAU Community mobile app

Lol, yes. The stories we tell ourselves.

Re flex that'd be awesome but a lot pricier with pretty much double the tuning time. I won't need the range so should be right with e85 only (famous last words).

Lol, yes. The stories we tell ourselves.

Re flex that'd be awesome but a lot pricier with pretty much double the tuning time. I won't need the range so should be right with e85 only (famous last words).
Aren't you already running nistune? Just get the latest feature pack with flex option, add sensor and then tune for e85. Your maps for 98 are already there. Your additional cost will be the feature pack and sensor, sensor should be under 200, not sure on feature pack. Dosepipe could probably quote you for those. Just thinking out loud.

Dedicated E85 wouldn't be too bad anyways. If you go that way, make sure you save your 98 maps, so you can switch back if needed/required.
Yep, one more mod. E85, 300rwkw will help sell, increase value of the car, i am guilty of telling those things to my wife too[emoji6].

The truth is, a stockish car at a low price is the easiest to sell.

Good to hear you're keeping and going to enjoy it a while longer[emoji106]

So are you thinking flexfuel? I would strongly recommend it for the added flexibility and never having to worry about not being able to get fuel.

Sent from my A1601 using SAU Community mobile app

Lol, yes. The stories we tell ourselves.

Re flex that'd be awesome but a lot pricier with pretty much double the tuning time. I won't need the range so should be right with e85 only (famous last words).

You can import your current map back on. That means you only need to sort out the E85 compensation tables. Pretty much need to tune (or lazily blanket values) for the cranking, timing and fuel tables. 

Lazy tuning, add 4 degrees into the entire timing compensation table, of course a dyno would be best for these things lol

  • Like 1
  • 5 years later...

Bumping a thread.....

Im setting up my fuel set up for my track car.

Will go Fuel cell, external fuel pump, surge tank, twin fuel pumps

Its for a LS1 at around 375kws.

I want the fuel pumps to be able to accept am8 fittings as thats what i run.

any ideas?

Thanks

Why not use something like this?
http://www.radiumauto.com/FCST-Fuel-Cell-Surge-Tank-P1497.aspx
small high volume low pressure lift pump and 2x 400/425/460lph TI or bosch 39/40mm pumps be plenty

OR
2x this would work with an adaptor fitting
https://www.prospeedracing.com.au/AEM-400LPH-Metric-Inline-High-Flow-Fuel-Pump-50-1009

Edited by robbo_rb180
  • Like 1

Pump to the surge has to be able to replace what the engine can use. The main pressure pump has to do a fair bit more than that and maintain high pressure. The lift pump only has to do the smaller amount and without much pressure. Makes it a much smaller power draw, even if the delivery is, say 75% or so of the main.

Of course, if the surge tank is large relative to how much the engine can pull our of it, and you do not have long periods on power, then you can go even smaller with the lift pump.

But in general, it will only be a little smaller than the main pump.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...