Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking at a couple of 2002-2003 nm35 A-RX stageas this weekend and just after some basic info.
I know there are topics and posts on here with all the info but its taking me way too long to cut through all the crap and find what i need to know.

I just want to know what the basic differences are between the different models of the nm35. (2004 and earlier, on a budget) and the major problems that are encountered.
Im a mechanic so im not too worried about the minor issues like oil leaks and such, just the issues which will cost me money rather than time.

Any help would be great, anyone complaining and telling me to filter through the other posts need not reply.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446817-buying-nm35-stagea/
Share on other sites

Not a lot of replies Ben. Looks like everyone took your last comment to heart, lol.

If you buy a clean looking car (ignore km's as probably aren't accurate) you won't have too much trouble. Original turbo will eventually break, some sensors may randomly give you trouble (most common AFM & cam angle) but that's about it.

If were me buying again, I'd keep my eye on the SAU classifieds and also http://www.m35stagea.info/forum/index.php . You're more likely to get a good price on a well maintained car. Good luck with your hunt

Oh, I nearly forgot, the cam chain sprockets are failing all the time (see recent thread on here). Good news is almost all owners on m35stagea.info have already changed theirs....

:no:

Four models.

From base pack to most luxo

RS

RX

ARX (raises susp, and adds wheel arch trims)

AXIS (colour coded wheel arch trims and diff grill)

Now all models 2001-2003 will be AWD, turbo, and 5at. We can't import the pleb NA models. Or the RWD early models.

Different grades have different options. Just being a higher grade, actually doesn't guarantee it will have more options than any other car. Research the options, and figure out ones you want.

Honestly, just being a mechanic isn't really enough for these cars. They have defeated many mechanics due to the quirks of the car. That being said, there is a massive amount of info on here about them, and what I would consider the most knowledgable people in the WORLD on these cars.

Best comb the for sale sections like Leon said, as you often can pick up nice examples, with a few of what we consider "must do" mods, already done.

Good luck, and welcome to the community!

Cheers gents. ended up picking up a pretty tidy AR-X. Ugly colour though.
Only bad point is the turbo is noisey. I didnt think much of it since ive rebuilt many turbos before and the kits are usually only around $100.
UNTIL i did abit of searching and found they are in a bitch of a spot and its really hard to find rebuilt kits for. Fingers crossed its just a busted exhaust gasket or a boost leak leading me astray.

A rebuild kit you say, I don't think you will find that locally, but they are available in Japan as I have seen S/H turbo's come in with new ceramic turbines. I think a Hypergear highflow would be your best bet.

The gaskets are pretty reliable, and rarely make noise. Most likely the rear wheel has fallen off into the cat. Pressure test the intake before you try dropping the dump pipe, it's a biatch.

  • Like 1

Aslong as there's is no damage to non serviceable parts of a turbo, then rebuilding a turbo is a fairly simple job.

As far as the exhaust gasket goes, a gasket is a gasket no matter what car it's on and gasket fail. I've seen very small parts of exhaust gaskets blow out and cause whining noises many times before on many different cars.

I started this topic to find an answer to my question and assumed It would end there.

Now how to a delete this topic? because it's of no use to anyone now that I've got my car.

Welcome to the forum. You can't delete your topic and can't force people to only give responses you want to hear.

A gasket is a gasket.

Anyway you must be excited with your whiny dud color stagea. Any pics of the dud color?

  • Like 2

Lol nah not yet. It's that ugly gold colour.

Should have some pics once I lower it.

It's looking like wrong oil has caused the turbo noise. Changed the oil and the old stuff felt like 20-60 or something similar. Put some 5-30 in it and the noise has gotten a fair bit quieter. Pretty sure the damage has already been done and will still need a reco though.

Now that I know I can't delete topics, I might think twice before starting another.

I'm happy with the stock rebuild for now, not going for power. Will probably give in down the track and go for more power.

I think you need to do some research on Nissan turbo's, before your turbine wheel ends up in the dump pipe. ;)

I think you need to do some research on Nissan turbo's, before your turbine wheel ends up in the dump pipe. ;)

He's a mechanic Scotty; he doesn't need to do research.

I can't for the life of me understand why you'd voluntarily take the turbo out of one of these more than once, if you didn't have to.

But I'm not a mechanic either...

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • careful when running the car after a boil over. Ive heard you can lose enough coolant that it won't show the right temps because of too much air in the system (or something like that). Make sure the levels are good before trying again.  Maybe a mobile mechanic can come have a look with their scan tool ?
    • OK, just for some extra clarity - there is more than one option at Frenchy's. 1. You can buy the whole kit - with or without the actual compressor. The whole kit includes mounts, hoses, condensor, etc. That's either ~$2200 or ~$2800. No surgery required with this option. 2. You can buy just the bracket (~$600), or the bracket with the compressor (~$1200). Either of this or the above option "without the compressor" is if you already have an Echo comp or you are able to source one locally. Whatever the case, in this option, you will need surgery done on your hoses to adapt to the new compressor. When I said "the Frenchy's kit", I meant the whole kit in option 1. It is obviously somewhat more $$ than a $1500 OEM compressor. But if I had to spend $1500 on an OEM compressor, I would certainly consider spending double that to renew and significantly update everything forward of the firewall. Another option is to rebuild your original compressor. My R34 comp is currently dead and I will be most likely doing that to it if the spare one in the shed is also leaky.
    • I’m thinking that’s the route I’ll  go, thanks for the input!
    • Hey all, my 2004 Nissan Skyline 350GT overheated the other day with coolant boiling and leaking out of the coolant reservoir when I was parking. So today, I started it up again just to see if it was a thermostat/head gasket issue. After about 20 mins of running, temps were normal again, no coolant was leaking out and the upper reservoir hose was warm but my engine suddenly cut off. I checked the oil dipstick and cap when it was running and there was no white foamy residue and the exhaust did not have white smoke. I tried starting up the car again but it would only crank, similar to when I had a camshaft sensor issue just that now there’s no check engine light on the dash. Any ideas? Unfortunately I don’t have an OBD2 that can read the Nissan's programme.
    • Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
×
×
  • Create New...