Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Haven't had alot of time lately and the car hasn't been started in about 3 months, it's just been sitting in the garage with the terminals off the battery. It's always started first bang but went to start it the other day and it cranks and fires like it normally would but when you let go of the key it doesn't continue to run, if you continue to hold the starter on it continues to fire-crank-fire-crank etc. but doesn't run once you let go of the key.

The pumps are running, I've put fresh fuel in, I've swapped the CAS over to another one I have and still did the same. Everything switch/readout wise seems to be ok on the powerfc, I presume I have spark/fuel otherwise I wouldn't be getting the fire??

Any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446823-gtr-starting-issue/
Share on other sites

Just got enthusiastic and went and had another play, took the coilpack plugs off, cranked it for about 5 seconds and pulled a plug out and it was bone dry and the top of the piston looked dry as well. There's fuel pressure at the rail, what sort of voltage should I be seeing at the injector when cranking? and what would cause them to stop working?

have you had a look at your fuel filter? its a long shot but it may be blocked. also did you have your foot on the accelerator when cranking to give it a little more juice on crank? how do the spark plug tips look?

Fuel filter is ok as there is fuel coming out of the return. Had another play today and there's no voltage at the injector plugs when cranking :( didn't get a chance to go further but will check the voltage at the ecu, the service manual says check at the ecu against 'ground' and then check again against 'common ground' taking a guess it might be a grounding problem with the injectors.....joy....

Yeh, checked that and checked the continuity of the wires and ground and all seemed to be fine. Pulled all the plugs off the injectors and put 12v straight to them from the battery to make sure they were all clicking. Put the plugs back on and cranked it again for the hell of it and it started first bang....explain that shit.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starting with issues 1 - 5, we have already run into a problem...!  Issue #4 contained 2x front brake calipers, instead of 1 caliper and 1x steering knuckle. Will have to call DeAgostini on Monday to sort it out. Anyway here's some photos.  Issue #1 is the front bumper, headlights and number plate. Issue #2 is the front wheel (with "We produced with spartan air." text on the centre cap!) and tyre, the front lip spoiler and cylinder head cover with ignition coils under the centre cover... which will never be seen again. Issue #3 is the bonnet and cylinder head. Issue #4 is the front strut, brake disc (with laser etched metal discs) and brake caliper. I stopped here because of the issue with the missing steering knuckle.  Next update will be #5 - #10 in a few weeks.
    • DeAgostini is one of a few companies that release quite large (the largest commonly available size actually) 1/8 scale models in a series of weekly issues over 100 - 110 instalments.  They release different models for different markets and DeAgostini Japan have release the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo last month. I've made two of these 1/8 scale sized cars (one an R35 GT-R from 2012 - 2014, the other I'm just about halfway through, a BNR34 Skyline GT-R from the 2Fast 2Furious movie) so when this R32 was announced there was no way I could ignore it as it's my favourite out of all Nissans.  Each issue costs around $20 so it costs about $2.2K when completed. I suppose it is very expensive for what it is, but the quality and details are really very good, and there are many "gimmicks" like fully functioning exterior and interior lights operated with a remote control, working steering, all doors/bonnet/boot/fuel lid open and close, the side mirrors fold in and it even has a speaker for the engine revving sounds when you turn the lights on.  Each issue comes with a magazine that tells the story of the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo from the first design stages of the BNR32 to Group A homologation and the various racing version that were run in the Japanese Group A and JGTC, and Australian Group A.  So I plan to update the build in this thread 5 issues at a time.  https://deagostini.jp/r32/?srsltid=AfmBOooKjxDc4EUK2rmXqMBPgyHfFJ24s4oEPJBNpnF-lFlsRoW0PE6P
    • As per title.. has anyone used so far? Keen to hear results, comparisons. In the market for a new mani for my new turbo. Any issues cracking?
    • Re read everything that has been written about this in this thread.. Let us know if you're still confused.
    • This would be a new pump with new gears. I'm just unclear on whether it's a good idea to run more oil pump flow if you don't actually need said flow. Oil level is set a minute or so after shutting off a warm engine so wouldn't the high RPM oil level in the sump end up lower all things equal? Plan is OEM clearances, main concern in my mind is whether the OEM pump can keep up with the flow requirements of any additional oil coolers.
×
×
  • Create New...