Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, new to forum to please be easy if i screw up (could be posting in the wrong section for all i know)

Have picked up a R31 skyline (RB20DET, non-intercooled), she very nice to drive in the day.

Night or cold day is a different story.

When the turbo starts to spool it seems to jitter and/or lose power all together.

The car is always warmed up 5-10 minutes before hand, stalls while warming up.

I'm thinking spark plugs, i have a theory that in the day it's hot enough to get a good combustion, at night there is just too much air.

Could anyone shed some light?

Cheers.

Blake.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446895-rb20det-not-boosting-at-night/
Share on other sites

I'm no expert on R31 but check everything related to ignition. Spark plug, coilpacks, coilpack loom, PTU ground...

Stalling during warm-up make me thinks it's PTU related.

Aren't the R31 PTU known to fail ?

AFM sounds like a serious candidate here.

Is it running stock boost? Does it have abig exhaust? etc etc etc etc.

No, stock boost, no intercooler.stock exhaust too, will be giving the AFM a clean today.

I'm no expert on R31 but check everything related to ignition. Spark plug, coilpacks, coilpack loom, PTU ground...

Stalling during warm-up make me thinks it's PTU related.

Aren't the R31 PTU known to fail ?

Not sure what PTU is, could you shed some light? and i thinks its a 32 rb20det swap.

cheers for the responding boys,

Blake.

R31 turbo not intercooled. Is this an Aus del with a 20DET swap or an import model. The only turbo 31's not intercooled were the import 20ET single cams or the unicorn like turbo GTS pace car. Afm sounds like the first thing I would check with a known working one. Which RB20 do you have if it is a DET. Redtop NICS are known be riddled with electrical issues, redtop ECCS or r32 silvertop RB20? If you can borrow a matched and working afm and ecu it would be a place to start and cost nothing to borrow for 20 mins.

R31 turbo not intercooled. Is this an Aus del with a 20DET swap or an import model. The only turbo 31's not intercooled were the import 20ET single cams or the unicorn like turbo GTS pace car. Afm sounds like the first thing I would check with a known working one. Which RB20 do you have if it is a DET. Redtop NICS are known be riddled with electrical issues, redtop ECCS or r32 silvertop RB20? If you can borrow a matched and working afm and ecu it would be a place to start and cost nothing to borrow for 20 mins.

hey guys was the spark plugs, whacked some new ones in and she runs pike a dream, last owner didn't intercooler it for stealth, definitely rb20det, cheers for the replys guys, also not sure what rb20 I have, anyway to check?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...