Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If threads were bottomed out then replace the studs as they will be stuffed and run 2 washers, trust me I've learnt the hard way due to duncan and foster being so dim witted they made the same mistake multiple times

5 attempts to build a 26/30 which never made it off the driveway and my car now has a stock r33 26 in it

currently paying someone with a brain to do it properly so that I can sell it off in pieces

  • 1 month later...

After some SAU searching, looks like I have the same issue on a completely stock RB25 with 23psi going through the motor.

Was at Wakefield yesterday and after the 4th session noticed my overflow was spewing out water however the water temps never went past 95 degrees. Straight away knew the head was lifting, dropped the boost a little down to 18psi and it seem to be ok. Car probably saw about 9 sessions with each being driven hard - still manage to drive the car home in one piece.

So now a question, can I just simply just try re-torque the head down without removing anything and just hope that it won't lift the head? I'm trying not to spend any money on the motor at all as I'm pretty happy with the power/response etc. (money to be spent on suspension instead).

hahaha.. that involves a cost, however in saying that has anyone successfully removed the head studs and replaced them without taking the cams out? I know the factory cams has a indent/recess so you're able to slide a socket/extension down.

If I was to remove the head and redo the head, I might as well just buy an used RB25DET NEO motor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
    • yeah, there's a country that recently started importing Skylines, I blame them.
    • I don't have a printer, but could at least attempt to make a printable model.
×
×
  • Create New...