Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can't remember of find the thread I was thinking about just vaguely remember someone talking about part of the engine that peeled when the car had a hard life. Is this the thing they're talking about? What is it?

I mean just cos theres no paint on this thing does it mean its a shagged RB26DETT?

Possibly my dumbest ever question but I had to ask :Oops:

Soz forgot to use my crayons.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44700-good-indicator-of-rb26dett-condition/
Share on other sites

oh i get it...the plenum. hmmm...dunno..hehe

i was also told to check the condition of the stickers with numbers that run along the wires closest to the engine. if theyre really shriveled then its an indication of a hard life. but then again were talkin about a 10+ yr old car here so who knows exactly.

Intake plenum with the stock fuel rail.

It depends... I'd reticient about really clean engines because someone might be hiding something?

Or do you just go with a dirty engine because the mechanicals are great and the seller doesn't want to hide anything?

I seen some 1996 GT-R's with peeling plenums - it's no indication of engine wear.

At then end of the day, I only trust a compression test.

T.

you would think that paint flake could be because of heat = meaning trashed out

but yes its a 10yr old car

i mean that is a good question because im looking at the 26 conversion to mine and i seen a half cut of a 26 and it looked like complete shit.

anyone else have something to add to this??

The stock plenum seems particularly prone to peeling. Personally I would look at the cam covers as well as see if there is any sign of them being removed. Not really a sign of "health" per se, but should give you an indication if someone has frequently been removing them to meddle with timing, etc.

Lucien.

I spoke to this engine rebuilder the other day and he was saying stuff about a compression test will only tell u a few things about the engines health at that particular point in time. He said that cars in Japan rarely go over 80kph and that when we get them here and go 100+ that sludge inside the engine can brake off and screw the engine.

I guess in that way its safer buying local cos at least u know its seen the highway and the "sludge" has reduced without causing engine probs. I call it sludge cos i dont know the correct mech term.

"Sludge" eh? This a technical term that mechanics use these days? Don't spose he had a few local delivered cars to sell you too :P

A compression and leakdown test is about as close as the average joe can get to checking the health of an engine without ripping the whole thing about.

With oils and lubricants replaced and driven reasonably softly for the first few days, an import should not be any less reliable. Slow city driving is not good for any car (compared to highway miles), but you would have much the same issue buying a car in Australia. Oh, and from what I have read, a lot of Japanese have a very liberal interpretation of their speed limits :P

Lucien.

The plenum in the first picture looks like it's been stripped on purpose, quite amateurishly, without being removed.

It can't be a case of paint peeling off, as there is no paint left on it.

However, the whole engine bay is quite dusty which can mean a number of things.

Possibilities are : The car has been sitting in storage for a long time, the owner has never opened the bonnet, the owner opened the bonnet but can't be arsed to clean it, etc... I certainly do not spend any time cleaning my engine bay. The appearence of an engine bay can reflect its mileage or fastidiousness of its owner but not its condition.

If it's a local car, get it checked.

If it's not a local car, get it checked.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MR HAMMER has said his piece. Painted up to avoid Rusty Rusty. Actually lines up well. (i.e it lines up the same as the unmolested GTR guard). Turns out the GTR Strut brace does foul on the bonnet vents ever so slightly. May need a little bendy bendy if intended to keep using with a strut brace. So spacing it out to clear the FAST102 is not an option. Annoyingly, the bonnet vents also foul on the heater lines running over the engine. Given this engine does not EVER require a heater, a delete loop is going to be used. Don't worry, the defogger uses the AC. The heater is basically "Do not use the aircon and turn the fan on". It will still be effective, I promise.... once I get the system regassed... Will have to revisit with unvented bonnet I suppose, and suitable strut brace. There's plans to do this and other things tonight and bleed brakes (there was a weep) and put the bumper back on, and take Good Friday morning - Because troubleshooting on the side of the road limping it home at midnight tonight is ... not very smart.
    • Thank you all for you assistance. I contacted Nistune regarding the support for the RB20DE along with my ECU Code (23710-10U00). They do have a map for it and added the RB20DE as a purchasable option now as well. They also added Malta as a Billing and Delivery options as this was missing. I was honestly amazed at their quick response and action, it took less than 24 hours. I also looked again at direct fit options for injectors, just in case I were to replace them. DeatschWerks seem to use a Bosch EV14 base and makes ones that fit mine at 440cc lowest, but also have 550cc at the same price. I tried looking for other direct fit options and managed to find one (also Bosch EV14 based) which includes a plug and play adapter on ebay. Did a small test with a Noid Light on the troubled injectors and all seems good, so they are pulsing properly electrically. One weird part is that they are missing on the same two cylinders as before I got the injectors cleaned. Mechanic also found this weird as he did not label the injectors and it is unlikely to have the faulty injectors be installed in the same cylinders.  
    • Nice, let me know how you find the 98 tune
    • Put a hand on an injector and see if that's what the buzzing is. You might be triggering the injectors by moving off idle command.
    • Ah, should have been clearer. Currently has a flex sensor installed all good to go.    like u mentioned, I’ve only ever known the car on e85, I might hate 98, but I have to try it out first. Everyone says the -5 turbos get pretty laggy on 98 octane tho…
×
×
  • Create New...