Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I watched some of your vids, it looks like way more fun!

you probably can answer this for me, how to get rid of the slip light coming on? I can turn traction control off but what is the slip light trying to do when it flashes on?

Haha, my slip light is on permanently ;P

They way it works is when traction control is enabled, when it activates to prevent the car spinning the wheels the SLIP light flashes. When you turn traction control off with the switch the TCS OFF light and the SLIP light will stay on.

Some people go to the effort of pulling the light out from behind the dash to stop it coming on. Others wire up little relays to reverse the way the light works. I just haven't bothered to do either lol.

Haha, my slip light is on permanently ;P

They way it works is when traction control is enabled, when it activates to prevent the car spinning the wheels the SLIP light flashes. When you turn traction control off with the switch the TCS OFF light and the SLIP light will stay on.

Some people go to the effort of pulling the light out from behind the dash to stop it coming on. Others wire up little relays to reverse the way the light works. I just haven't bothered to do either lol.

Haha, my slip light is on permanently ;P

They way it works is when traction control is enabled, when it activates to prevent the car spinning the wheels the SLIP light flashes. When you turn traction control off with the switch the TCS OFF light and the SLIP light will stay on.

Some people go to the effort of pulling the light out from behind the dash to stop it coming on. Others wire up little relays to reverse the way the light works. I just haven't bothered to do either lol.

ahhhh I see, thanks for that, I was gonna start pulling fuses lol

Nice start for your GTT, I enjoy reading the updates/pics.

As for boost controller, if you can get your hands on a greddy profec b or the newer but similar profec type s I would suggest either of those. I had a profec b for years and years very easy to you use with great accuracy.

Thanks guys, I will likely get that style of boost controller.

Update:

front pipe and test pipe put on today, got the rear diff serviced as well clear.png

I thought the car would be a lot louder but its very subtle still, which is great. The turbo spools up way faster then I imagined it would now lol, went through some gas to say the least clear.png

  • 1 month later...

Storage has started, but one last trip on the mountain for a good drive.

EBC and tuning won't happen until spring now....in the meantime Im thinking bigger injectors, MAF, and doing a hybrid turbo setup over winter.

20141113_152612_zps7225a450.jpg

Any shops make the hybrid turbo anymore? I couldn't find much when I searched...

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

Jeez its been a very long time since I updated anything! I have been active with the car, but it didn't seen much driving until these past couple weeks.

Summer has hit us so the car is coming out for a couple months.

Most recently I took off my HKS Hi power Super Silent. I replaced it with a Blitz nur spec exhaust that I was lucky enough to find at auction! The car is so much louder now :)

As for other changes the boost controller and nistune board get installed in a couple weeks at a local tuning shop.

My wheel setup is changing now, bought some Enkei Nt03-m 18X9.5 +27 offset on all four corners. Will put some 235/40/18 on the fronts, and then 265/35/18 on the rears.

Old Setup, ran 20mm and 25mm hub centric spacers to make these fit and look great.

20150528_200233_zpscuknihff.jpg

Quick pics of the new setup, currently 265/35 tires on all the wheels, but they are all toast, getting new rubber next week.

Rear:

20150610_113731_zpsoyb3oqvl.jpg

Front:

20150610_115824_zpsjxjixgip.jpg

Whole car....cant see the rear wheel, looks like a spare tire haha

20150610_115847_zps164ee0s7.jpg

I am not going to upgrade the stock turbo yet, going to push it once the nistune board is in shortly.

Edited by 604JD
  • Like 2

Nistune went well :)

Got 258whp and 239wtq but I think that's pushing the stock turbo a bit to much, I believe our peak boost was 13.8 psi

Yesterday I was in 3rd gear with the pedal smashed and around 4,000-4,500rpm there was a sudden loss of power and boost....then it built power again after that a second later. I experienced this on one of our runs after about 3 hours on the dyno. We went to do some road pulls to test the load on the car and it happened, my tuner looked at some values and changed a couple things....and we also had a vacumn line blow off the manifold. Fixed everything and the car ran strong, but still it did the same thing a couple days later now.

Back to the shop tomorrow, going to dial down the boost on the stock turbo a bit and maybe make sure the fuel pump is keeping up etc. Hoepfully get the car back on the dyno and sorted.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You’ll want to have the block drilled and tapped to suit 1/2in head studs and the head for the same. How much power do you intend to make?
    • Sorry for resurrecting an oldish thread Not much has happened in the past year since the last update. The car did another 1000 miles or so and failed the MOT for the first time in October (failed on tyres which had been advised for a couple of years) In October the car got put up for sale and was removed in November due to no interest, being so close to christmas it was to be expected. The roads were dry in February so I decided to tax it early and get the new tyres fitted.   Fast forward to April, I got someone in to give the car a good clean after sitting for the winter.                                 The car got re-advertised and today (Saturday 3rd May) the car sold. The new owner is planning a GTR conversion at some point and a respray in the same pearl white. It's bitter sweet, it's a shame to have the car sit there for half the year and then only do 1000 miles. The kids are growing too quick and space in the back is getting limited. It's been a great 6.5 years of ownership
    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
×
×
  • Create New...