Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so my skyline is sounding like a wrx, ive already researched on the topic and ive so far replaced the coil packs with brand new yellow jacket ones and new spark plugs, when the car is cold started it sounds normal but after a few minutes of driving the sound appears, it used to appear and leave whilst driving but recently it doesnt leave at all and just continues until the car is turned off and on again, any suggestions??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/447055-rb20-skyline-sounds-like-a-wrx/
Share on other sites

also a while back when replacing the injector seals i found out one of my injectors wasnt working 100% but didnt change it at the time, could this be a cause?

Are you seriously asking that?

Yes. No shit an injector not working correctly will cause a misfire. What do you think it would do?

well it worked absolutely fine for the next couple months so i didnt think much of it, im obviously asking a question because i dont know the answer you f**kwit.

Don't get upset.

You brought it up that an injector wasn't working correctly. Of course that will cause a misfire. Fix it. Or alternatively waste your time wondering what else could cause a misfire.

im not getting upset, you were acting like a dick so i responded, from the research i did everyone said coils/plugs and since i had fixed both i was wondering what else would be the problem so i asked, i did plan on upgrading injectors anyway so its not like im going to leave it, cheapest (new) ones seem to be bosch and i'll probably go 440cc since i dont plan on running big power or anything but i do plan on getting some more power out of it.

Ben, this is a forum for people to ask questions, not everybody me included know everything and find it hard to chase down issues. our engines do have common faults but these can be a miriad of things quite often. you do have a habit of beliteling people for asking.
if it frustrates you to be asked then just close the page.

I have had a similar fuel related issue which turned out to be dropping rail preasure from my pump but it did not result in dropping a cylinder but an injector may cause this. my issue for the wxr ayptom like everyone else was a coilpack problem which you have addressed. the next obvious place would be the injector if you know if dodgey but being a mechanical/electrical/fuel componant can bring with it all sorts of fun. it could come down to grounding. best thing is to do some more testing and narrowing down. the easiest way to be sure its not the issue is swap it out but yes this takes spending and possibly thorwing away some cash.

im not getting upset, you were acting like a dick so i responded, from the research i did everyone said coils/plugs and since i had fixed both i was wondering what else would be the problem so i asked, i did plan on upgrading injectors anyway so its not like im going to leave it, cheapest (new) ones seem to be bosch and i'll probably go 440cc since i dont plan on running big power or anything but i do plan on getting some more power out of it.

Ok here are more things that can cause a misfire, aside from the coils and plugs

Injectors

Injector loom

Coil pack loom

Various plugs (dirty, wet, not plugged in fully)

Ecu connection

Afm

Vacuum leak

Boost leak

Damaged valve

Blown head gasket

Low compression

Damaged piston

Fault cas

Incorrect timing

Fuel pump

Fuel pressure

Wrong injectors

Etc

So as you can see sorting out the injector issue you have noticed is the sensible first step.

What ecu do you have?

Do you realise you will need and tune for the car to run with those injectors?

stock ecu and yes i know that, spoken to tuners and i had already planned on getting injectors, fuel pump and dump pipe (mines standard but the rest of the exhaust is 3") and putting the boost up to 14psi with a nistune

would putting it on the dyno be a faster way of diagnosing the problem? while talking to the tuners they said its $100 for an hour of dyno time so im thinking of just doing that to diagnose the problem to save the headache of narrowing down the problem and possibly wasting money replacing things which dont need to be replaced

I don't think so.

If you are planning on getting the bigger injectors and a tune just do that.

An easy way is to pul the plug on an injector with the car running. If it gets worse that injector is probably ok. If it stays the same that injector isn't working. Same with coils, but they tend to not cause issues at idle untill they are totally rooted.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I might have to say it.
    • Ahh... it's an early RE5R01A box, that means the pinouts I gave are wrong (they were for the RE4R01A 4-speed box)... I'll have to dig around in my docs to see if I've got that schematic (they used the same gearbox plug, with the vacant pin wired to the direct drive clutch solenoid)...prolly hidden away in a supplement somewhere... ...there were 3 variants of the RE5R01A ~ this early schema was what we called the 'dumb' 5 speed ; it's what jatco called a 'medium duty' box, with torque holding up roughly ~200ft/lbs or so, which was good for NA from RB20/25DE and up to around VG30 output spec. With the RB25DET (and VG33/35 mills), the only options they had was the 4-speed 4AX00 box, which had been beefed up to handle the extra torque (primarily for the VG35, but it also suited the RB25DET mill and others)...and the RE4R03 box in large 4WDs a lot of the time... ...the next variant of 5-speed was redesigned, stronger, and 'smart'...first ones had external TCU with internal (on valvebody) Shift Control Unit, pressure switches, and 2 x TSS...and the last ones had internal TCU+SCU setup, with CANbus control etc etc. @DRoc81 On the RHS of the box towards the rear, there should be a stamped silver ID tag -- what's the model number? Oh...and with the early 5-speeds, the torque converter control solenoid assembly should be replaced as well (31940-60X00)...it's a bit Murphy's Law ....if one has failed, bet on the rest not being far behind ...
    • I remembered wrong, but was close though 1Kz setting because those Jaycar SSRs don't go any faster, 1x pump per SSR with flyback diodes & heatsinks. In saying that, the heatsinks are overkill. Just on an alloy plate is more than sufficient. You'll find without a flyback diode, your SSRs will heat up big time and also die prematurely.  I've been running the two same SSRs since the last motor, no issues, car does 2 hour straight drives in summer once in a while and gets punished on the track. Nothing melts, no hot messes, etc.    
    • Hmm. You're probably best off working out what the lobe centreline or even the LSA is for the stock cams, with VCT OFF. That's bound to be out there somewhere. Then, work on the assumption that the Kelford centreline is probably the same, and wouldn't be more than a couple of degrees away, if it is different at all. I'm very surprised that you needed to adjust the exhaust cam by 5° to get it on spec. That screams there's another problem somewhere. Anything from the belt being 1 tooth off (how many degrees is one tooth worth?) to simple user/measurement error on the degree wheel. I say this because Kelford, like most quality cam manufacturers these days, does a pretty good job of actually making the cams to spec, not relying on patching it up afterwards like we had to do back in the 80s.
    • Besides packing it, you can also fill your pump through the oil filter inlet port. After cranking for what felt like an eternity without pressure, i fed a tube in through there and filled it with oil. Cranked for a few seconds after that and had pressure. 
×
×
  • Create New...