Jump to content
SAU Community

Cant Find Air Regulator Plug...

Gameboy

By Gameboy,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Gameboy Collaborator

Gameboy

Posted
Posted

Ive been doing an rb25 into s13 conversion on and off for a while now. Im putting the harness in but I cant seem to find the air regulator plug. I know of the AAC plug (the purple one) but cant find the other one. Is it part of a separate harness?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/447089-cant-find-air-regulator-plug/
Share on other sites
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

I think it will be PWM controlled by the ECU. The other plug that you dont have (which is brown in the photo I have, on the valve itself) goes to a solenoid so will need PWM to allow varying amounts of air through

Gameboy Collaborator

Gameboy

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Now there's a solenoid? :P lol damn

I cant take pics as the car is at my brothers work shop but googling around, the plug im missing is blue. The plug that goes into the AAC is purple (have that plugged in) and there is a brown plug I have nfi where it goes. Im guessing that's for the solenoid?

Stupid car....

My sister has a Series 2 R33 and is bone stock. I think im going to have a look at it and see what im missing. I think I have that solenoid in my parts bin somewhere...

Edited by Gameboy
jiffo Mentor

jiffo

Posted
Posted

The air reg is simply a 12V bi-metallic strip valve, nothing flash.

No ecu input, just power on when the IGN is on.

Doesn't even need 12V, engine bay heat will eventually shut the valve.

A pain to access on a 25, impossible on a 26.

I hate them.

Not to be confused with the purple plug idle bump up for the aircon.

Or the brown plug for the AAC.

Of course this is presuming the OP is talking about an R33 Rb25 and not a Neo.

Gameboy Collaborator

Gameboy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The air reg is simply a 12V bi-metallic strip valve, nothing flash.

No ecu input, just power on when the IGN is on.

Doesn't even need 12V, engine bay heat will eventually shut the valve.

A pain to access on a 25, impossible on a 26.

I hate them.

Not to be confused with the purple plug idle bump up for the aircon.

Or the brown plug for the AAC.

Of course this is presuming the OP is talking about an R33 Rb25 and not a Neo.

Thanks for the post. Its a great help and yeah, its an r33 25.

Thanks guys, love this forum. :thumbsup:

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Just as an added extra people used to power these cold start air valves off the fuel pump circuit say with a relay . The idea being that if the ignition was on for any length of time without the engine running the valve wouldn't be heating and closing up .

As mentioned most engines had these valves mounted somewhere where they got coolant heat early in the warm up phase so that if the power feed failed they'd still heat up and close .

How does the Neo system work .

A .

jiffo Mentor

jiffo

Posted
Posted

Although the air reg is IGN "ON" for power, it's actually all part of the fuel pump relay power feed which is controlled by the ecu.

So once the ecu times out the fuel pump, power to the air reg is also cut.

Attached is Rb26 system, 20 and 25 are similarly controlled.

post-73571-0-41421200-1408662898_thumb.jpg

jiffo Mentor

jiffo

Posted
Posted

Yes Cal, the brown plug (AAC) is ecu controlled, varying duty cycle signal.

Your purple plug is the idle bump up for air con, just an on/off solenoid not hard wire linked to the engine ecu.

Of course your aircon control unit (amplifier) does tell the engine ecu to control the compressor's magnetic clutch.

Found a photo of the Rb26 air reg, buried under the plenum.

They all look the same, 20, 25, 26, 30......horrible things.

post-73571-0-54062800-1408676043_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sean'O
      3D printing fun

      By Sean'O · Posted

      Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) clogged cat

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Milkmun
      NC MX5

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • Milkmun
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Milkmun · Posted

      255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • Kinkstaah
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...