Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It isn't many bolts, but you would need a crane. The engine is too heavy to just lift out. :P

Personally I would unbolt the gearbox first, just to make it easier. If you are doing it on stands you will need to pull both engine and box together. ;)

How hard?

Not hard. But depending on what you consider hard?

Have you ever worked on a car before? I assume no because you are asking a simple question. So in this case for you an engine swap will be hard.

Best to pull out box & gearbox in one go - loads easier, and if you're tight remove the A/C compressor and cable tie it aside but leaving all the hoses attached (so you don't need to regas the system), do the same for the power steering pump as well.

Unclip all the sensor plugs, etc..

motor out done.

leave the heater hoses until the engine is on the crane, easier to get to.

Just make sure you take time and don't tell yourself you can just remember where every bolt goes because that will be a headache and a half when the new motor is going in

its taken scotty a month to do mine

;)

It can be done, but... just... gah. Enough little differences in my GT shell that scotty has shown me over the GTT one to make me jump on the 'don't do it' bandwagon.

It is legal to do so, at least in VIC, as I have done it.

You will need to at least have R33 GTST/R32 GTR brakes up front.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Read the ECU for fault codes or have someone else do it. A faulty coolant temperature sender is usually listed in ECUs. If the sensor itself is not busted it can also be a bad ground connection. Or in a really unlucky case, damaged wiring.
    • Can't be a Futjitsubo as those are made with a flex piece and Reimax is smaller in pipe diameter. If anything it is closest to a Mines pipe, but evidently it is not an actual Mines pipe.   Classic word humor
    • Alright I will try to not forget.   As GTSboy replied to you already, problem is mainly the mismatch between the actual exhaust part and the denomination in the papers. That basically just looks like tampering to a cop, if they were to check your car and notice. If it had been done right they would have clarified it to be a custom pipe and just given it a certain part number that you have to engrave or weld onto the pipe. I will definitely inquire on what to do. Changing the pipe wouldn't be my favorite solution as it costs a bunch of money and the cat was fitted with the front pipe and exhaust under the car, and if the front pipe flange does not sit in the OEM location the cat will need to be refit for any other pipe to work. It also usually doesn't need a brand name or something like that, but more something like a part number. Usually for exhaust parts, on silencers and cat units specifically, there is a badge that reads the certificate number that belongs to these exhaust parts under EU regulation. You get these numbers after you put a part or group of parts through the tedious testing according to EU vehicle legislation and they pass. You can find these "part numbers" on various parts throughout a EU vehicle. On windows, headlights, engine parts, seat belts and so on. All these parts have gone through standardized testing and acquired a so called ECE or EG Certificate that makes them legal to use by themselves in all countries that adhere to these standards. You can also not alter these parts in any way, if you do they become illegal. An example for stampings on an exterior lighting part, the people who need to know can find the documentation for this unit in a database. I do not know what all the standards and so on mean.
    • If that was the case I suppose you could call it "Mein's" brand....  ... I'll see myself out... 😅
×
×
  • Create New...