Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm sold on the quaife front diff on a BNR32.. Right now I'm driving a OEM rear diff which is , most likely, 25 yr old! I have a ATS 1.5 way LSD lying around ( I put it for sale but no one bite the bullet yet..). Should I install this diff or sell it and buy a quaife in the rear OR just run the oem one ?

thanks!

I'M afraid the cost of rebuilt will be close to the cost of the Quaife ( seems like tranny shop are are in my area so they charge a lot knowing they have the ''monopole'' no shit.. its like 1000$ to rebuilt with the 300$ kit..)

im not sure where your located cobrAA but I have found myself in nearly the same situation..

I currently have a quaife front diff and a standard rear diff which im sure is not doing as a good a job as it could.

I spoke to Award at seven hills and they will re-shim the standard diff to make it tighter for 400ish dollars from what I can remember them telling me.. you have to pull the diff out yourself though.

In saying that a quaife rear would be the way to go based off how good the fronts are

Yeah so unless, I find a great deal on a quaife rear diff, i will buy the front and put the used ATS 1.5 there . thanks

Few people use the Quaife rear - most use the Nismo or recond stocker (or can you get Kaaz at a good price?)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No intention of driving the car the way it's set up now, just wanting to make sure I haven't made any mistakes along the way so that the tune can go smoothly, I don't want to waste anyone's time with stupid issues. And of course I intend to get it towed to the dyno in a completed state 😅 I have the base fuel pressure with the vacuum disconnected set at about 40psi, which I believe is at least relatively close to stock fuel pressure, maybe I'll have a fiddle with the reg and see what happens. For all I know I could be wasting my time with this and I should just plumb it in and see what the tuner reckons. I just find it a bit strange that it seems to be under so much load just free revving, but maybe that's just a result of the turbo slowing down the exhaust gasses and making a restriction in the flow, with no boost to compensate.
    • The boy just hit up google translate and it worked a treat, he said step one was "please urinate with precision and elegance", he then sent me the correct translation  I get some new loctite for the small fixtures tomorrow and get some "dort" going after that 🤣
    • Right, so is the fuel pressure the same as it was previously? If not, well, it's not going to work well. I can understand the theory I assume you are going for, which is: "Run it N/A, and if I have the original AFM, and same amount of fuel and intake air as previously, the fact there's a turbo in my exhaust should still make it run" Which it... might? Provided you don't actually change how much air or fuel is going into the car.. or getting out. But if you have changed that, all bets are off. What is the purpose to even have the car run this way? To get it to a tuner? And if the goal is to limp it to a tuner, you're still going to what - plumb up a whole intercooler system and new intake in the parking lot out front before your tune......?
    • Haha yea it's a bit of a weird setup at the moment, just wanted to make sure I sorted out any headaches before dyno day. At the moment I've changed the exhaust manifold, turbo and downpipe, 460lph fuel pump and rising rate reg as well as the previously mentioned headstuds and gasket. The nistune was already mapped for the car as it was and drove around for a few months no worries. The plan is to run flex fuel hence the big pump, which I've wired direct to the battery through a relay to avoid voltage issues.
    • Um. Was the ECU the same as the one previously there? I know R33's needed R32 GTST ECU's or other tomfoolery to run Nistune. This is such a wild setup. Most people would plumb in the turbo then not drive the car (i.e tow it to a tuner). What's actually changed since it last ran?
×
×
  • Create New...