Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can't wait for the S-chassis army to be out in full force...

Gave the car a wash, then waxed it up with some carnauba.

Fitted underbody splash tray, bolted the fire extinguisher to the rear seat bracket (had to shave down the washer), and also fitted a nut onto one of the turbo/dump studs, seeing as it must of rattled off back when I had the solid mounts. Also fitted a couple interior trimmings by Superior Auto.

RBOp9Gm.jpg

Anyway, have taken the car for its second shakedown through Old Pac...it's pretty much good to go for the trackday now :D. The HC + pads are amazing.... will be VERY late on the brakes.

Q, are Clubmans allowed ?

Insurance has told me that Clubmans are allowed, as long as they have mudguards.

If they don't have mudguards, then we need to run them in their own group/session.

So as long as they have mudguards and pass scrutineering, then they can run.

Insurance has told me that Clubmans are allowed, as long as they have mudguards.

If they don't have mudguards, then we need to run them in their own group/session.

So as long as they have mudguards and pass scrutineering, then they can run.

Good work mate! Really doing the hard yards for this event :yes:

Insurance has told me that Clubmans are allowed, as long as they have mudguards.

If they don't have mudguards, then we need to run them in their own group/session.

So as long as they have mudguards and pass scrutineering, then they can run.

Great to hear

Insurance has told me that Clubmans are allowed, as long as they have mudguards.

If they don't have mudguards, then we need to run them in their own group/session.

So as long as they have mudguards and pass scrutineering, then they can run.

That is the weirdest logical decision that insurance could ever make... :S I can understand if they've got roll cages/other safety features to allow them to run with normal cars. But mud guards allowing them to move from an open wheel group to a normal car group... So odd! Mud Guards don't make them any safer! But then, that is insurance for you! LOL

A quick note for anyone taking their GTR to the track for the first time or if your unaware, over fill the engine oil to the middle of bump in the dipstick ( about 1 ltr ) to help reduce the chance of oil starvation, last thing we want is to see unnecessary engine damage :thumbsup:

A quick note for anyone taking their GTR to the track for the first time or if your unaware, over fill the engine oil to the middle of bump in the dipstick ( about 1 ltr ) to help reduce the chance of oil starvation, last thing we want is to see unnecessary engine damage :thumbsup:

Lol too late!

Hey guys, I'm a trackday noob....bit worried about filling an extra 1L of oil.....wouldn't that effect your oil pressures (just on normal driving)?

Would you overfill at the track then drain at the end of the day?

Any other tips to prevent engine damage?

I have a 10ltr sump and still fill to the bump in the stick and that is how it stays, my 32 has a stock sump and same, fill it to middle of bump and that is how it always is

The dip stick measures down from crank more then up from bottom, there is no way it will effect oil pressure at the level

We are a pretty good bunch of people and usually just put everything in a pile next to where you park your car and leave it there

Hey guys, I'm a trackday noob....bit worried about filling an extra 1L of oil.....wouldn't that effect your oil pressures (just on normal driving)?

Would you overfill at the track then drain at the end of the day?

Any other tips to prevent engine damage?

overfilling will cause no issue whatsoever, if u would call it an issue it might cause a bit of blow by (oil out of the breathers) but if your car is sorta standard that will be happening anyway)

Also is there an area where you can offload loose items and pick them up at the end of the day?

e.g if you were to bring a trolley jack

we all keep our stuff at our car spot that we claim in the morning.. over 7 years nothing has ever gone missing as there are always people about and your never gone for more than 10 mins at a time

Another good idea is bleed all your brakes and clutch to get fresh fluid in to the calipers and clutch slave and enough fluid in the master cylinders

Check how much pad you have left

New filters, particularly the fuel filter

Makes sure wheel nuts are tight and tyres pressures

Even with the extra 1L in the sump the crank doesn't drag through the oil in the pan, not only does it help prevent oil surge It has more thermal mass so you are less likely to overheat the oil.

Even with the extra 1L in the sump the crank doesn't drag through the oil in the pan, not only does it help prevent oil surge It has more thermal mass so you are less likely to overheat the oil.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...