Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I have 94 32 GTR. My gears feels very crunchy especially when it's cold. Takes around 50ks to be ok.1st gear is very hard to put in. It has a short shifter put in it. Not sure if it's masking the syncros. Doesn't feel smooth at all. Very stiff n rigid. It's crunchy when put into 1st,then changing into 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th. But the crunch is worse at 1st,2nd and 3rd. I need advice. Pls help.

Thanks.

Sent from my iPhone using SAU Community

As Nizmo said maybe start budgeting for a GB rebuild.

Check your gear shifter bush (standard is white plastic washer at the end of your gear stick)

Change your GB oil and I'd suggest going a stock Shift stick.

(under $100 new, a lot less for 2nd hand).

32's are also known for being more difficult to get into gear when the GB is older and cold

Short shifters are naturally harder to get into gear so this just exasperates your issue

Edited by Sinista32

-> mashing the Syncro's on your gearset <-

now take time to warm it up and change slower. take the advice above

save up to put something like an OS gieken gearset into it.

Unless your a racecar driver or got money to throw at something better that is !

It's a 32GTR and the gearbox / syncros are the worst of the bunch and they're OLD

Thx guys! I might go back to a normal shifter and prob change the bushing too. Is there anything else u guys reckon I shd change jus to keep it going? Not exactly the rite financial time to get another box.

The synchros are worn down too far to allow the gear to slow down enough to engage. Hence why its crunching

Just baby it or try double clutching until you can afford a 2nd hand box or rebuild

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Anyone want to make me an offer to take my v36/g37 3.7l manual coupe in full? Off memory it was low 100k km but the battery is flat so can't tell right now. What's wrong. I had engine problem's that led to a nice clunk. It made it home but it wasn't pretty for the last few kms. Happened under revs. Sounds like bottom end.. never got around to fully checking or fixing it so the car has sat still and unregistered for a few years. Minor bump in front end set the pedestrian protection under bonnet airbag off and that was meant to be repaired, but while waiting for the repair (parts to come) I got the engine problem. The rest of the car is in decent condition. All drive line is good. All interior is good. Leather interior. Wheels in good condition and decent tyres although the ps4s are likely a little too old now it's sat still. Colour of the car is pewter off memory, the dark grey colour. In Camden NSW. Would need a tray back pickup.
    • Anyone want to make me an offer to take my v36/g37 3.7l manual coupe in full? Off memory it was low 100k km but the battery is flat so can't tell right now. What's wrong. I had engine problem's that led to a nice clunk. It made it home but it wasn't pretty for the last few kms. Happened under revs. Sounds like bottom end.. never got around to fully checking or fixing it so the car has sat still and unregistered for a few years. Minor bump in front end set the pedestrian protection under bonnet airbag off and that was meant to be repaired, but while waiting for the repair (parts to come) I got the engine problem. The rest of the car is in decent condition. All drive line is good. All interior is good. Leather interior. Wheels in good condition and decent tyres although the ps4s are likely a little too old now it's sat still. Colour of the car is pewter off memory, the dark grey colour. In Camden NSW. Would need a tray back pickup.
    • I started with the above in my head too, and I might be reading / thinking about what they want wrong, which is why I complicated it a bit further. Purpose I'm seeing is for the corner indicator to be on with headlights, and then if the indicator turns on it can still flash. The relay part above I can see working as required, except in the case of headlight is on, and indicator is on. The change over relay you've wired in would get signal from the indicator, and as it flashes would give power to the globe from the indicator, but as it flashes off, power comes from the headlight, which would cause the indicator to be constantly on when headlight is on, even while indicator change over is flashing. That is unless we don't care if it flashes or not if the headlight is on? I guess that's an OP clarification.
    • HI, Ive got an r34 gtt sedan A/T. The instrument cluster went out and I replaced it with another A/T everything visually looks the same and all the gauges work now with the exception of the speedometer and odometer. The speedo will stay pinned at zero until I'm going about 55kmh and then it'll say Im going about 5kmh. my odometer seems to be tracking at about a 1/10 of what it should. If I go 1km it'll say I've only gone 0.01. Appreciate any and all help. Ive tried searching through the forums reddit and a local fb group. The only info I think I've found is that some cars didnt come equipped with TCS (mind is) and the clusters may be different between those? I've also installed a brand new VSS and no joy obviously. TIA. 
    • what speedo healer did you use?  
×
×
  • Create New...