Jump to content
SAU Community

Bolted On New Turbo And Car Drives Like Non Turbo

r34lyf

By r34lyf,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Oh boy. Another one of these threads.

My take on the situation aligns with Ben's.

The turbo is not spinning. It is a cheap shit turbo that you shouldn't have bought, but that's a problem you will have to sort out later.

Your vacuum lines sound like they are all messed up. There shouldn't be any interconnection between lines associated with the carbon canister and the boost sensor and the wastegate control. And certainly not power steering. Either you have described them wrong or there seems to be something wrong about the way they are set up. Either is not good, but the latter can lead to problems. Get it straightened out before proceeding.

If perchance the turbo IS spinning, then I place money on the wastegate being jammed open.

  • Like 1
Plattsy Grand Master

Plattsy

Posted
Posted

ahh okay.

as for the turbo outlet and the wastegate T's into a boost pressure solenoid and another hose comes from the solenoids top that goes nowhere atm i think its a bleed hose? maby it was hooked into the original frontmount pipe?

get a picture of that.

youve got it setup wrong if im reading that right.

the nipple on your cooler piping should go to the wastegate actuator.

completely disconnect the boost solenoid if its the factory one. (if its same as 33)

edit:im going of the info you have provided, not my hatred for chinese shit. is the turbo isnt spinning at all its dead.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

be back with photos

Not really worth the trouble. Even with the boost controller hooked up wrong it will still make boost. It can't swing the wastegate open magically somehow.

Might as well show the photos so when you bolt your next turbo on you have correct boost control

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Back! everything seems fine now the wastegate was jammed open im so happy

That's good. What about the oil restrictors and the bush bearing turbo? That's a bad combo.

And are you sure your boost control lines are plumbed correctly, or don't care cos car goes now ;)

r34lyf Apprentice

r34lyf

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok im transferring pictures for the boost lines, yea that oil restrictor worries me now but it did seem to flow oil when i had the oil out pipe off when i first cranked the turbo without starting car

r34lyf Apprentice

r34lyf

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

ok so i think the pipe that goes to nowhere is supposed to go into the turbo air intake between turbo and airflow meter, can i hurt the car not having it on? btw thats the boost pressure control solenoid pictured above this post

Edited by r34lyf
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted (edited)

The carbon canister hose should go to the plenum via an ECU controlled solenoid (located at top rear of engine) that is only opened when the ECU says it can be opened. If it goes direct it's not right, but it's not going to cause any problems with the turbo etc. Something I would fix if it were mine though. Although.....that purge solenoid will only work with the factory ECU (or a Nistune thereof). Won't work with aftermarket ECUs unless carefully set up.

The wastegate plumbing is basically fine. The unconnected hose that is supposed to be connected back to the turbo intake is simply the vent. It works whether it's connected or not. It's just an emissions violation if it's hanging out in the breeze.

Edited by GTSBoy
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Does that mean you have boost?

If you do - drive it very carefully. It's a somewhat larger turbo than the stocker, and the stock ECU will cause you problems if you boost it up. You will run into R&R which is where the higher load parts of the factory maps are deliberately "tuned" by the factory to give yo shit performance. And the ECU has a boost sensor connected to the crossover pipe near the BOV that will cause a very hard boost cut if you overdo it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      New fix for low tyre pressure from bmw

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • sunsetR33
      Anyone know this frontpipe?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • dbm7
      New fix for low tyre pressure from bmw

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • joshuaho96
      Anyone know this frontpipe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • GTSBoy
      New fix for low tyre pressure from bmw

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...