Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone can cancel a policy at anytime regardless if you make monthly installments or paid in full and you should be credited For days in the month unused then start a new policy with NRMA

Edited by mr skidz

Anyone can cancel a policy at anytime regardless if you make monthly installments or paid in full and you should be credited For days in the month unused then start a new policy with NRMA

Thats what i thought also.

Either way i was in the green because i was still within the cooling off period with Just Car, my first payment was also not processed yet, so no refund needed.

Okay soooooooo. I misunderstood it as needing another vehicle insured with NRMA. They just wanted to make sure i have access to another vehicle for everyday use, which i do. I am 24 just if anyone is curious.

So final outcome was:

Agreed Value - 50k

Excess - $500

Premium - $840

Im honestly surprised how much cheaper it is. I was about to pay $2900 Premium and $1800 Excess. :/:/:/

Thanks for the help guys :)

Np. Congratulations!

  • Like 1

Ok, so I have a 2001 R34 Vspec-II.

I WAS insured with Lumley Special Vehicle.

Agreed Value: $65,000

Premium: $1,100

Excess: $1,000

Just got a quote with NRMA Vintage and Classic.

Agreed Value: $75,000

Premium: $1,080

Excess: $1,000

OR

Premium: $1,200

Excess: $300

And I still haven't listed my mods for NRMA policy. Maybe I could bring it up to $80,000 agreed value?

Also, I will try to bring up the value with Lumley and see how much premium it'll get

Looks like I will make the switch though.

p.s. I was also surprised that NRMA VVC didn't ask what model my GTR was. So being a non-spec, vpsec, vpsec-II, nur, etc wouldn't matter to them?

  • Like 2

Ok, so I have a 2001 R34 Vspec-II.

I WAS insured with Lumley Special Vehicle.

Agreed Value: $65,000

Premium: $1,100

Excess: $1,000

Just got a quote with NRMA Vintage and Classic.

Agreed Value: $75,000

Premium: $1,080

Excess: $1,000

OR

Premium: $1,200

Excess: $300

And I still haven't listed my mods for NRMA policy. Maybe I could bring it up to $80,000 agreed value?

Also, I will try to bring up the value with Lumley and see how much premium it'll get

Looks like I will make the switch though.

p.s. I was also surprised that NRMA VVC didn't ask what model my GTR was. So being a non-spec, vpsec, vpsec-II, nur, etc wouldn't matter to them?

I think it depends on who you get on the phone and how much they know about these cars.

I wasn't asked about vspec/II/nur, but i did mention it and she made the according selection from the list. Not even sure if anything other than standard/vspec exists for them as she went through the list for me and did not mention vspecII or nur.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, so I have decided to make the switch from LSV to NRMA VVC

Instead of the first quote of $75,000 agreed value and $1,080 Premium,

after listing all my mods, I have brought it up to $80,000 agreed value.

$1,130 Premium and $1,000 Excess.

Slightly cheaper than LSV but insured for alot more :smile:

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, so I have decided to make the switch from LSV to NRMA VVC

Instead of the first quote of $75,000 agreed value and $1,080 Premium,

after listing all my mods, I have brought it up to $80,000 agreed value.

$1,130 Premium and $1,000 Excess.

Slightly cheaper than LSV but insured for alot more :smile:

is your mods listed on your insurance certificate?

Im also with NRMA VC, but at the time, we agreed on higher insured value (due to mods) but I didn't provide them a list, rep said I could update online but I don't see any such options

is your mods listed on your insurance certificate?

Im also with NRMA VC, but at the time, we agreed on higher insured value (due to mods) but I didn't provide them a list, rep said I could update online but I don't see any such options

I don't think theres an online option for that.

I've sent them the mod list via Email. They will then save the whole list under your profile/policy in their own system. (Call up to let them know/confirm the mod list is saved.)

  • 1 month later...

R33 V-Spec Series 3

NRMA - 45k value @ 1050pa (Unlimited Mods)

Shannons - 30k Value @ $2250pa (Shannons price kept increasing with modification list)

As I have other policies with NRMA there quote came down a bit more

Very surprising... Hard to keep under the km per year to qualify for the vintage policy @ $700

Also from my daily drivers policies NRMA claims are quick & somewhat hassle free (for an insurance company...)

  • Like 1

R33 V-Spec Series 3

NRMA - 45k value @ 1050pa (Unlimited Mods)

Shannons - 30k Value @ $2250pa (Shannons price kept increasing with modification list)

As I have other policies with NRMA there quote came down a bit more

Very surprising... Hard to keep under the km per year to qualify for the vintage policy @ $700

Also from my daily drivers policies NRMA claims are quick & somewhat hassle free (for an insurance company...)

$1050 is pretty good imo.

I think the nrma vintage has now erased the km per year restrictions? It is now something like 10 times usage per month instead.

  • Like 2

$1050 is pretty good imo.

I think the nrma vintage has now erased the km per year restrictions? It is now something like 10 times usage per month instead.

Yes they changed the 9000klm to 10 trips a month a while ago.

A bit silly and harder to keep track of if you ask me.

So you could do 10 return trips Sydney to Melbourne for example, about 17000klm in a month OR a year and it is a lot more than the original 9000klm , got me beat ?

A lot of blokes on here seem to get their jollies off on the track and are not insured while on the track. I would think that most of them are better drivers than the norm on the road, well maybe, lol

How do they know you only did 10 trips??? Seems like an open ended thing to me.

I could do one trip to Adelaide and clock up 5,000km, or you could do 20 trips to the shops and clock up 500km.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...