Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Patrick, congrats on getting your R32 GTR.

Good luck with your rebuild.

There is a lot of good info on SAU.

I'm sure you've checked other build threads and the other good one is http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93880-rb26-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/

  • 3 months later...

Update:

Well we found the tell-tale cracks from the coolant jacket to the head stud holes and I decided to not use the existing block. I have an N1 block at the machine shop now and I had to get new pistons for the BC stroker kit.

I also found a chipped valve guide! yep a small part was missing and no doubt made it through the engine at some time so I went with BC bronze guides and while I was at it went with new +.5mm Stainless Steel valves. I also took the time to mildly port and polish the head as well. It came out great!

It sure has racked up the money on this build from where I wanted to be so I'll be selling the -7 turbos shortly to go bigger (for sure).

I'll keep you guys updated, but work has been insane this year.

Thanks!

Edited by HarrisRacing
  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...

Alright big updates.

Machine shop found the coolant cracks in the block from the head stud holes to the water jacket. LOTS of them. Scratched the idea of boring and using this block and purchased a NEW N1 block...and wow is it gorgeous for the first time in my life to have 100% all new parts to go together!

I ported the head, found LOTS of play in the valve guides including ONE broken one! Here's the new list of parts that I HAVE PURCHASED and RECEIVED:

BC stroker kit w/ sportsman rods

ARP main studs

ARP head studs

ARP flywheel bolts

Ported the head

BC +0.5mm OS SS valves for intake and exhaust (do not need to bore seats for these)

BC single valve spring and titanium retainers and new BC locks

BC phosphor-bronze valve guides

Tomei oil pump

Fluidampr harmonic balancer

Tomei Poncams A

Haltech Platinum PnP

Deatschwerks 800cc injectors

Deatschwerks Fuel Pump DW300

Mine's valve cover breathers.

Cylinder head is at RAWBrokerage getting final port/polish and assembly now.

BC completee gasket kit

N1 water pump

HKS timing belt

Z1 motorsports new silicone coolant lines (to/from Radiator)

New pilot bushing

New Throwout bearing

Tomei block oil restricter

Greddy Oil pan extension

OEM thermostat

Hicas Lockout (Whiteline racing)

Exedy Hyper Single VF clutch kit (likely won't work for my new power level)

Nismo clutch line

New NISMO floor mats (lol whatever I wanted them!)

Splitfire coils

New CV boots

Megan Racing Subframe bushings

Nismo clutch fork pivot

Nismo shifter bushing

Autobahn 88 silicone hose set

I measured and assembled the entire shortblock last weekend.

BC stroker crank, Sportsman Rods (good for a mere 1,200 HP), and CP pistons.

The CP pistons gave issue with clearance at the oil squirters. Seems they move the wrist pin in the piston design and don't increase the relief at the oil squirter. I took some measurements and started the grind / clearance of the pistons. Don't worry about the comparison picture, I disassembled all the rod/pistons and cleaned everything after clearance. Actually I pulled all the remaining ones apart once I had the measurements down.

ARP main studs. ACL "Race" bearings.

Installed Tomei oil restricter

Also getting all the valve covers powdercoated "2009 Ford F-150 Amber Gold Metallic". Should look pretty wild.

Then I am pretty much decided on single. PT 6262 or another shop's own 6262 build using the new Garrett GTX3582R 11 blade 62mm compressor on the same 62mm turbine rear as the Precision uses. Not sure about manifolds yet. Looking at .84 divided. They say these turbos have incredible response. Doubt I'l spend the money on the BB option.

As SimonR32 has done, I will be adding the breathing holes to my oilpan when I get the Greddy sump welded on. This forum is a WEALTH of information!

I will be running track days on the car and driving around for spirited fun on the weekends. I won a championship in the GT2 class in 2010 in my Toyota MR2 Turbo (which I recently sold, as well as my MKIV Supra TT 6 speed Hardtop).

Looking good so far!!

post-136202-0-45995900-1426858769_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-54333100-1426858790_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-40203600-1426858810_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-82211200-1426858823_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-73450100-1426858839_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-71739100-1426858851_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-06041000-1426858860_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-41277000-1426858868_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-86782300-1426859118_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-63688800-1426860383_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-18375000-1426860397_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-56018100-1426860410_thumb.jpg

Edited by HarrisRacing

Oh...I also got approved for my personal plate. It's the first one I have had. I tried every spelling of GODZILLA or GOJIRA possible. They were ALL taken except for what I got "GODZYLA".

I felt it appropriate.

  • Like 1

Installed all new nissan cv boot kits on front axles last night while I had them out on the bench then moved to the greddy oil pan extension mods.

I saw another thread where a guy did something similar to this but after looking at it I may add some more holes (pictured) since the reinforcing ribs might hurt draining where the factory 3 sump extensions are.

What do you guys think?

post-136202-0-19224400-1426963504_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-94820900-1426963549_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-00240000-1426963579_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-31596700-1426963784_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-39671700-1426963846_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-59120400-1426963858_thumb.jpg

Edited by HarrisRacing

Also, is it necessary to remove the differential prior to welding the pan? Are there any seals to hurt or replace in the process?

I would figure if the seals can handle the heat, leaving the diff IN would reduce warpage. I also have the old block to bolt the pan to when we weld it.

Changed the cut a bit. After looking inside the pan some more I didn't like the horizontal dividers. I made a decision to add some drilled holes at the bottom of the slopes on one side and to completely cut the other side off. I also added a small hole in front in the incident that air gets trapped up there.

I also am not going to remove the diff for welding and will instruct the welder to take his time around the diff and seals.

Also installed the tomei oil pump (as delivered with both springs) and N1 water pump. I was surprised that there is no gasket there nor on the rear main seal...interesting.

I'm also adding the 2x -10 fittings as simonr32 has. I marked and cleaned the spots.

Can't wait until the head comes back so I can throw it on the engine!

post-136202-0-49306400-1426990894_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-09876300-1426990930_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-79385800-1426990943_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-88217900-1426990959_thumb.jpg

jeesus i love how this thing went from a tidy up to a rebuild with a N1 block and stroker cranker.............actually that happens alot

all the best with the build but i dare say you need to get rid of those -7s for something a bit more suitable..... dyno sheet with a precision 6466 on a HKS 2.8 below, would be wicked fun on a 2.9

post-85139-0-39242000-1426999167_thumb.jpg

Lol yeah the -7s will be sold off! It will be single turbo now if for nothing else but to clean up the engine bay.

Likely only a 6266 although 6466 and 5862 crossed my mind. I saw simonr32's track videos and realized how lively a 6266 is on his stock bottom end and got a serious chubby for that setup!

Ahh the slippery slope of GTR fixing.

And that Hypertune V2 sure would clean up the engine bay some more! (Assuming someone would trade one of my kids for it!)

  • 5 weeks later...

Updates.

STILL waiting on head. Pressure tested good, guides pressed out, they are blending the ports around the guides that I couldn't port with the guides in. So they should be doing work this week.

Turbo is selected and purchased. Borg Warner 8374 EFR w/ .92 IWG and I got this on a STEAL. Manifold is yet to be decided...may end up being RAW brokerage's new one for the 8374 EFR IWG, since it clears the AC and PS on R32 and they sell a DP for it.

The new clutch arrived. Nismo Twin Disk Coppermix. (sprung hub).

Also the Nismo 1.5 way front LSD arrived. I'll be pulling the stocker out of the oilpan prior to welding. I wish I could have gone with a Quaife, but in the US I would have had to order 10 of them. Didn't know but one guy with a Skyline GTR so that was out. Nismo seems to be the next best thing IMO.

Transmission will just remain stock and be ready to explode. If I sell some of my gun collection I could go OS88 as insane as that sounds, but if I'm planning on that then it doesn't matter whatsoever.

Woot for progress! (slow, but sure and it should be GOOD!).

post-136202-0-88530200-1429584332_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-80789300-1429584343_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Already looked at a few prior to getting the MX5, really nice car, had all the mod cons, but I wasn't really sold on the new "look" I did miss my 2017 Limited, and I personally prefer the "look" of the older car over the new model, but, when pondering I kept going back looking at MX5's But it was same same for the new ND's, I wasn't sold on the new "look", especially the RF with its weird roof, which only half goes down, like a targa top sort of thing As I stated before, I did look at NC's, but the cars I looked at were PRHT's, but I didn't like their roof line "look" of the PRHT, until I saw the soft top version, (someone on SAU posted a for sale ad for one with a soft top that caught my attention, you can blame them for my choice.....🤣) and.... that old style detachable hard tops were available for them, which keeps the old MX5 more smoother flowing roof line, and the more rounded body style, similar to the NA-NB, to me, the arse end of the ND looks to "modern" Much like how I prefer the NC1 front bar, over the later models How long will I keep this car for is unknown, but currently, there's nothing else out there that "floats my boat" for a small, fun, little "sports car", that I can play with and enjoy looking at and driving But, who knows what the future holds, and going off current new car styling, if I replace it, it will be a older model something something       
    • looking forward to your t56 swap man its a game changer if it works! 
    • So, when are you trying the new GR86 or BRZ?
    • Uncle Duncan Yeap, FI Interchiller  Works well, normal IAT's cruising with the WTA only went from 50°c+ to 25-30°c with the interchiller  Before, when on it hard, the IAT would see 80-90°c, now, the highest has been was around 38°c IIRC IAT is measured under the blower hat I recommend it for the street or strip where your only on it hard for 10 or so seconds, but it wouldn't be efficient for sustained track use as it would heat soak from the AC turning off or whatever it does during WOT to protect the compressor It really needs the AC running for it to not heat soak and keep the WTA coolant chilled My WTA coolant temps when just cruising is around 2°c
    • Hey Mark...sorry to interrupt your career change to hair dressing... but...did you ever fit the interchiller to the commodore, and if so how was it? And, who made it?
×
×
  • Create New...