R32 Gtr Build In Usa

[frostyboy]

killa build mate

[HarrisRacing]

Sorry for the slow updates. Not much has happened. My job is very "oil price dependent" and I've been scrambling to keep things going at work. I have done a few things on the GT-R, but haven't really made much progress. There are some issues with the Hypertune manifold which is making it a pretty slow installation and setup. I have been working on that for some time now, and still don't have it 100% finished. One thing is the manifold actually TOUCHES the water inlet (neck where the thermostat is). I had to file the neck down, figure out the plumbing, and am currently designing the swirl pot / outlet manifold.

Just wanted to update that I'm still alive. Sorry some of my "GTR money" is tied up at the moment.

[HarrisRacing]

Modified and fitted Murrayis's Bosch GT101 crank and cam sensors. I had to modify the crank location due to two things: 1) the Tomei oil pump has an external pump pressure adjustment point that interferes with his location and 2) The Fluidampr crank dampener is a smaller diameter than the factory unit. So I cut his up, added a spacer, and made it work.

Also ran the intercooler hoses from the turbo to the intercooler (just flipped the factory steel tube around - still need to grind factory brackets off and weld on new brackets), and then added some on the other side for the Hypertune manifold.

While I was at it I removed ALL of the factory BOV recirculated mess!!! I must say the simplicity of the BW EFR with it's built-in recirculating BOV is a significant weight and plumbing savings over factory.

It made room for the oil cooler location and I started fitting that as well (no pics of that yet).

Showed how I ground / filed the coolant inlet neck where it was hitting the Hypertune manifold. The "arrow" ridge used to go all the way to the coolant hose.

Oh and one more thing I finally took a picture of the amount that the TRUST sump extension is below the cross member.

[Piggaz]

While I was at it I removed ALL of the factory BOV recirculated mess!!! I must say the simplicity of the BW EFR with it's built-in recirculating BOV is a significant weight and plumbing savings over factory.

All that junk weighs a fair bit. Have you had it all on the scales? It definately feels good to rip it all off and throw it out!

How long till it's on the dyno?

[HarrisRacing]

All that junk weighs a fair bit. Have you had it all on the scales? It definately feels good to rip it all off and throw it out!

How long till it's on the dyno?

I didn't weigh it yet, but I would imagine after dumping the twins, going to the hypertune, removing BOV stuff,I'm still going to be 100 lbs less than factory and that's with the heavier BC stroker crank.

Yes I was looking at the plumbing thinking "if you recirculate, why would you EVER upgrade the BOV's on this car?".

I'm trying to target about 1 month to dyno. That's hopeful because it's mardi gras here, but I have a punch list and I'm trying to knock something out everyday (no matter how small).

AS soon as my brother gets the welding machine back to the shop (he's almost done with his 1969 Ford mustang Mach 1), I'll be fabricating the downpipe and getting that side buttoned up.

[HarrisRacing]

Back to going strong.

Installed oil cooler, re-did my intercooler plumbing, re-routed head "drain" line and made a little bracket.

Massive changes to cooling system design (schematic coming soon).

Patrick

[Hadouken]

Whatever is rubbing on that oil cooler is not going to last long

[HarrisRacing]

Whatever is rubbing on that oil cooler is not going to last long

Piece of rubber intercooler hose that I wrapped with some older cut intercooler hose and I agree. I'm going to space it out there when I head back to the shop. Noticed it after taking pictures (after fitting manifold and tightening clamps actually).

Thank you for pointing out in case.

[HarrisRacing]

My buddy chucked up my fluidampr in the CNC mill today and got this done for me. 12 slots, .115" deep, .250" wide, .300" plunged toward center from outside. This will be my trigger on the Honeywell GT101 sensor on the crankshaft with the haltech platinum pro ecu set to 24+1. The 24 is usually the designation for the AEM cam wheel that can be inserted into the factory CAS, when used on the crank there need to only be 12 slots due to 4 stroke (2 rotations of crank for one of cam).

The other trigger is a GT101 for the HOME (1 in the 24+1) signal. I'll get the timing right in the haltech on initial setup.

Kind of a bummer that the platinum pro can only handle these 12 notches though. Not killer resolution, but heck it's better than using that small resolution in the CAS with all it's jumpiness.

[HarrisRacing]

Weather was horrible here this weekend, but hopefully I'll have more time this week to work on this car!

I did, however, mock up the crank dampener. This week will be trying to figure out how to plumb the coolant out of the intake manifold (there are 7 coolant OUTLETS on the manifold!).

I have to get them to a swirl pot and back to the radiator. Also I need to make sure the manifold is still "installable"...Not going to be an easy task.

Patrick

[HarrisRacing]

Still going strong!

Removed the hicas rack from the rear. Read a great piece of advice to use those lines as fuel lines and left the main lines in to do that later on.

Plumbing of the coolant piping on the intake manifold is done, fabricated the manifold for that, waiting on it to come back from the powder coating shop (today hopefully).

Also I installed a temp sensor in the oil filter housing...it's a GM unit and was M12x1.5 threads...it was super cheap too. This will go to the Haltech as one of my aux temp inputs. This can be used for engine protection if the temp gets too high.

Also added a TEE in the line for the oil pressure and will purchase the haltech oil pressure sending unit and remote mount it. This way the factory gauge should still work (I used a new sensor there) and then I can run the haltech oil pressure to the ECU for engine protection with oil pressure.

I'm also having to rework some wiring for new sensor locations.

The coolant piping is getting pretty complex - more so than I wanted to be honest...but it is what it is, and should still be relatively serviceable.

Also will order Haltech fast action air temp sensor and Wideband today. I think I may be able to start the car next weekend (April 16th weekend).

I have all of the exhaust bends and will begin fabricating that this week. All turbo oil feed/drain lines are sorted, waiting on ONE fitting to show up to finish the drain.

It's getting there!

BTW - I went to the TX2K16 event here in the states and saw that GT-R run that quick pass!

[SCR48]

Awesome build Patrick. Ive also gone a crank & cam trigger setup on mine. I mob locally in Queensland do up a tidy kit. Here is some pics of it getting put in.

This is the Cam Trigger Unit

[HarrisRacing]

Extremely classy looking install there! I want your cam setup! I had my factory cover powdercoated the same as my top covers and would really like to install it. The clear cover is because I couldn't fit the sensor arrangement I have now in there and needed to cut the cover.

[HarrisRacing]

More work tonight. Oil drain flange modified (-10 AN steel fitting welded on) and downpipe tacked up. Downpipe fits perfectly. I'm going to put the flex and vband in it tomorrow and weld it out.

[HarrisRacing]

Initial fitment done. Had to make it to a crawfish boil at a friend's so I couldn't weld it out. Tomorrow is shooting Guns all day with friends.

[HarrisRacing]

GETTING CLOSER EVERY DAY!

Lots of little things this weekend.

Finished the heater / coolant returns from the back of the block, heater, and swirl pot. The swirl pot is an ebay unit and is mounted where the factory boost solenoid / injector resisters would be. I removed the factory injector resistor pack and wired it together (since the Haltech can run either high or low resistance injectors by simply selecting in the software. I cut the center nipple off of the rear block coolant port and flipped it over and welded it back so that I could rotate this fitting 180 degrees to fit my plumbing better. This will give me more room under the Hypertune manifold. So my routing to the water pump recirculating hose (fitting on block behind water pump housing that ALWAYS circulates back into the water pump regardless of thermostat position) is such that this will always be 1) drawing coolant from back of block (just like factory), and 2) will be drawing from the bottom of my swirl pot (which will be drawing on my head coolant vents and top of my radiator to remove any air in the system).

Mounted PS reservoir! Removed factory EVAP cannister, but used it's bottom mount (modified) to fit the power steering reservoir! Pretty happy this worked, UGLIEST MOUNT EVER though. I plan to remake this later, was just tacking metal to it to get fitment and decided to slap paint on it for now. Since I have removed ALL of the engine bay Hicas plumbing so I only have one return from the steering rack that will go to one of the entry ports on the canister and will use hicas side of the PS pump to circulate fluid through a cooler and then back into the PS reservoir. Yes I can still remove and install the air filter without removing it. The feed hose is actually a coolant hose (one that comes off back of waterpump bypass from the factory - I'm not using it) that came in my Autobahn 88 kit that I didn't end up using! I trimmed about 1/2" off of this hose and voila - perfect feed hose!

welded out exhaust, also welded another -10 AN fitting where the factory front oil drain flange was for future use in the even that I need even more block drain / venting. I just stock a -10 cap on there for now.

More wiring routing, also changed the IAT to the quick responding ones and installed this in the bottom of the intake manifold. I ran a wire in the sub-harness for this.

Also finished all turbo outlet / intercooler piping on the turbo side. I cut the factory pipe and added a mount to it for that "factory" look. At this point I see no reason to change the piping to hard piping as my bends and such seem to flow well so far (and that piping is 3"!).

Installed GREX / GREDDY oil filter relocation as well. I did NOT use their hoses NOR their mounting position as the Hypertune V2 would surely make changing oil difficult. So I modified the mount, welded it to the subframe and put it down next to the oil drain plug! Should make for EASY oil changes.

May be able to hear this baby run this weekend!

[HarrisRacing]

Finished PS plumbing.

Completed all turbo oil lines and AC lines install. All left on that side is to install downpipe.

Driveshaft, speedo, center diff lines all attached and done.

Worked on wiring on the front which lead to removing CAS guts and installing my Hall trigger (GT101) sensor in there. It should look like stock, but won't be. I used a M7x1.0x30mm bolt with 2 extra washers under it for the spacing. This was found to be good by unscrewing the bolt and rotating the cam to check where it touched, then seeing how many turns to turn the bolt back in. I DID cut some of the bolt off so you can't just use a M7x1.0x30mm bolt without cutting it, but I wouldn't use a factory bolt there. I did hook a 9v to the sensor and ran a voltmeter from the sensor line to see if it was going to pick up the other bolts but it doesn't. Notice also I ground the heads of the bolts all flat (didn't want raised numbers giving false triggers just in case).

Torqued crank pulley (couldn't do this without driveshaft installed), and bought new belts.

So here's my final punch list:

1) Relocate battery

2) Finish relooming wiring for the new sensors and those locations on the intake side. Plus install Haltech CANBUS wideband.

3) Install intake manifold for final time (been looking at how to get to all of the studs / nuts for this for awhile and I think in this final arrangement it's doable).

4) install alternator

5A) Install front acc belts

5B) install radiator + fan

6) Finish all fuel plumbing (easy)

7) Make mount bracket for coolant tube. (weld onto strut brace).

8) Finish swirl pot plumbing (all there, just not plumbed up yet).

9) Fill with fluids

10) install haltech and program it

11) Prime engine with oils, recheck fluids

12) Install spark plugs and splitfire coils.

13) Hear this sucker RUN!!!!

[HarrisRacing]

Oh wow. Working nearly every night of the week despite having social engagements nearly every weekend and I'm still knocking out my list.

Finished my GT101 sensor install in my CAS. I ended up cutting a window so I can set the gap by shimming the bolt and it looks great. Also finished crank bolt installation and set the gap on my crank sensor.

Extended the TPS wiring, finished everything under the intake manifold (extended IAC wiring), wrapped down pipe and installed final.

FINAL INSTALLATION OF HYPERTUNE MANIFOLD!!!! Had a few "out of body" experiences putting all of the lock washers and nuts on...serious pain. As if I dug into a nest of porcupines surrounded by cacti while resembling a circus contortionist...BUT IT IS DONE (by the grace of God).

This should all go very quickly now!!

[HarrisRacing]

Installed KOYO radiator

Installed belts - Part numbers for the Fluidampr are:

Alternator - GATES K040340

A/C - GATES K040365

Power Steering - GATES K040372

Started Tidying more wiring and made a bracket for the coolant manifold to bolt to (Simple bracket welded to strut brace for now - I'll get it powdercoated this week).

Checked my injector card and arranged injectors from lowest to highest flows in the 70-80% range from cylinder 1 to 6.

GETTING CLOSER!!!!

[flowgoode]

Installed belts - Part numbers for the Fluidampr are:

Alternator - GATES K040340

A/C - GATES K040365

Power Steering - GATES K040372

Hey there, build looks like its coming along great! I have a quick question. Stock belt for the alternator is Gates K040347, which is about 1/2" or 16mm longer than the K040340 belt that you used. Is that because the Fluidampr has a smaller size? I have a fluidampr that I'm going to be installing soon, so looking to see if ordering the stock belt size would not be right. I'm looking at the Gates blue racing belts too:

Gates K040347RB Blue Racing Micro-V Belt - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TTKPF2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=19NGU4K5QEJSZ&coliid=I3BFQIAYWSJ065 Gates K040340RB Blue Racing Micro-V Belt - http://www.amazon.com/Gates-K040340RB-Blue-Racing-Micro-V/dp/B000TTKPDY/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1462200886&sr=1-1&keywords=K040340RB