R32 Gtr Build In Usa

[HarrisRacing]

Yikes! 
Makes me think of my drive shaft.


But man, the rest of the damage is nuts. How hard was the launch? 

Full tilt launch on street. Broke immediately.

I'm on front nismo LSD so it goes pretty good but the only thing i can figure is the mounts sheared then the motor jumped and then the axle went. Yours looks insane!

Wow how did you do that?!

[PranK]

5 minutes ago, HarrisRacing said:

Full tilt launch on street. Broke immediately.

I'm on front nismo LSD so it goes pretty good but the only thing i can figure is the mounts sheared then the motor jumped and then the axle went. Yours looks insane!

Wow how did you do that?!

 

4

Very similar circumstances, but mine lasted 5 mins of normal driving after before the clunking started.  

[PranK]

OH, and mine was about 12hrs after i bought it... Had to get a taxi home and tell my wife what I did to my GTR.

[SimonR32]

Fairly standard for OEM mounts to be shagged, break like that and cause similar damage... It sucks, I've been lucky enough to do it but my turbo hit the strut bar, ripped off the cooler piping and lost power almost instantly causing no real damage.

Nismo are much better but tend to cause issues with the fan hitting the shroud

[sneakey pete]

Old mount of mine was broken there but hadn't moved off of it. Were these brand neweys or older ones?
Also my mate was asking if there was a video of the launch

[HarrisRacing]

Older ones but they looked and felt good. Strane to me where they both sheared where they are bonded to metal.

Don't have a video of this launch but do of others. I was just doing the burnout this time doing some testing.

[HarrisRacing]

Installed New boots and such on a used axle and put that in the car, just waiting on the nismo mounts and fan shroud.

[HarrisRacing]

Installed all of it yesterday. Getting those motor mounts in was a total PITA. The fan shroud, however, was easy (didn't even need to remove fan or belt).

Nismo Engine mounts

Nismo Transmission mounts

New Nissan fan shroud

Used axle (New CV boots)

New fan shroud

Cranked the car just to get it running. Ran no problem but I need to fill the front diff fluid level today and then I can drive it.

 

Needed to lower the subframe on each side while jacking engine up to get mounts in - managed to do this with axles in and most components still hooked up but was PITA running pry bar and all by myself while wedging the mounts into place.

 

My advice now is if you are EVER getting at your mounts or removing/installing the engine do the nismo mounts right then!

[HarrisRacing]

Took my son (15) to a drift event this weeked, pulled the fuse and had some fun! Rear diff is a bit worn...and I need to do all of the bushings anyway.

[T04GTR]

sounds like fun! just make sure its got the early transfer case with no preload on it. (ie with car up on a hoist you should be able to turn the front prop shaft with no resistance turning the rear shaft.

or you will kill it in rwd.

[doo doo]

1 hour ago, T04GTR said:

sounds like fun! just make sure its got the early transfer case with no preload on it. (ie with car up on a hoist you should be able to turn the front prop shaft with no resistance turning the rear shaft.

or you will kill it in rwd.

the preload in the 33 and 34 gtr is from the attest computer, it's not mechanically different to the 32. But I reckon the 32 still wears its plates a little even without the preload factor when running without the fuse, especially when dyno tuning. As long as the front prop shaft is out you'll have no dramas with the transfer case running the car in rwd.

[doo doo]

1 hour ago, T04GTR said:

sounds like fun! just make sure its got the early transfer case with no preload on it. (ie with car up on a hoist you should be able to turn the front prop shaft with no resistance turning the rear shaft.

or you will kill it in rwd.

the preload in the 33 and 34 gtr is from the attesa computer, it's not mechanically different to the 32. But I reckon the 32 still wears its plates a little even without the preload factor when running without the fuse, especially when dyno tuning. As long as the front prop shaft is out you'll have no dramas with the transfer case running the car in rwd.

Edited December 31, 2016 by doo doo

[T04GTR]

On 12/31/2016 at 6:45 PM, doo doo said:

the preload in the 33 and 34 gtr is from the attest computer, it's not mechanically different to the 32. But I reckon the 32 still wears its plates a little even without the preload factor when running without the fuse, especially when dyno tuning. As long as the front prop shaft is out you'll have no dramas with the transfer case running the car in rwd.

i beg to differ... i have been around the block a few times with these things., but i agree, pulling the shaft is the best choice. fuse out and crack off the bleeder and if it still drags you need to pull the shaft.

[doo doo]

6 minutes ago, T04GTR said:

i beg to differ... i have been around the block a few times with these things., but i agree, pulling the shaft is the best choice. fuse out and crack off the bleeder and if it still drags you need to pull the shaft.

Yeah I know you know your stuff, I recall this being discussed on here a few years ago too, and as far as I'm aware you can disable the preload in the 33 via the computer. Happy to be proven wrong, I rebuild the transfer cases with increased preload now anyway which means pulling the shaft on the dyno. 

[KiwiRS4T]

41 minutes ago, doo doo said:

Yeah I know you know your stuff, I recall this being discussed on here a few years ago too, and as far as I'm aware you can disable the preload in the 33 via the computer. Happy to be proven wrong, I rebuild the transfer cases with increased preload now anyway which means pulling the shaft on the dyno. 

How to put your R33 in to 2wd (from the manual):

Locate the "air bleed" wire behind the drivers kick panel, it's a plug with a single wire either side (usually green socket, white plug).

Disconnect it.

Start car. As key comes back to the ON position, within 10 seconds, depress brake pedal 5 times, 4WD light will start flashing to indicate you are in 2WD mode.

To go back to 4WD mode, turn car off, reconnect plug and off you go.

 

I have hooked mine to a switch in the centre console.

[HarrisRacing]

More dyno fun.

Finally moved my cam gears on the dyno. Spent 4 hours there yesterday (on a dynocomm inertial - which will soon be eddy brake). I now see what a V-cam would do for you. Moving my Poncam A's closer together (ie-more overlap) yielded undeniable tq gains with no appreciable drop in top end power (my 3" exhaust could be holding me back). I think it liked 8 total degrees of CRANK overlap (2 notches off from '0' on each cam) the best (Advanced intake 4, Retarded exhaust 4), but we did run add another 2 deg (crank) to the intake to bring it to 6 deg intake advance and 4 deg exhaust advance and this is where it stayed (for now). Super choppy idle now, but damn this car pulls like CRAZY now. makes 3 more psi boost at 4k rpms. When I compared 20 psi runs with cams set at 0 the tq goes to the stratosphere. Look at the differences from 4500 rpms to 7k! At 22 psi high number is now 653 whp and 515 wtq but boost control was shakey on these runs (oscillating from 22 down to 18).

It is making 300 WHP at 4k rpms on 20 psi...on 93 octane pumpgas! This is my 8374 EFR .92 IWG on a stock-bore 79mm BC stroker FYI.

[flowgoode]

That's so awesome man! Good stuff! I wanna hear that idle haha

[HarrisRacing]

1 minute ago, flowgoode said:

That's so awesome man! Good stuff! I wanna hear that idle haha

 

 

[SimonR32]

Those cam gear changes certainly woke it up!

 

 

[HarrisRacing]

1 hour ago, SimonR32 said:

Those cam gear changes certainly woke it up!

 

 

I'm really thinking the stroker geometry and slow top end piston speed must REALLY like more overlap than I was giving it with these small Poncam A's and straight up cam timing. I just drove it again...damn car is an ANIMAL! I can not wait to try another 1/4 mile run in it! I can only imagine what a 3.2 with V-cam would be like!!!