Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr Build In Usa

HarrisRacing
 Share

Recommended Posts

HarrisRacing Proficient

HarrisRacing

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Yikes! 
Makes me think of my drive shaft.
3blah_019.jpg

But man, the rest of the damage is nuts. How hard was the launch? 


Full tilt launch on street. Broke immediately.

I'm on front nismo LSD so it goes pretty good but the only thing i can figure is the mounts sheared then the motor jumped and then the axle went. Yours looks insane!

Wow how did you do that?!
  • Replies 361
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

HarrisRacing
HarrisRacing

Been awhile... But I'm coming back to life slowly. 2 cracked vertebrae are definitely in there. Back brace and very light duty for 2-3 months, but no surgery needed. I was extremely fortunate (thank G

HarrisRacing
HarrisRacing

Things are finally going together. They will be done with my cylinder head and it will be shipped out in 3 days! This is good news. I also received the manifold from RAW BROKERAGE. It's their intern

HarrisRacing
HarrisRacing

Everyone loves pictures of progress! Decided on Hypertune V2 6 injector intake manifold with 90mm TB....ordered. 3 or so weeks out. Turbo is fit up (did not use gasket for now just in case there wer

Posted Images

PranK Grand Master

PranK

Posted
Posted
5 minutes ago, HarrisRacing said:

Full tilt launch on street. Broke immediately.

I'm on front nismo LSD so it goes pretty good but the only thing i can figure is the mounts sheared then the motor jumped and then the axle went. Yours looks insane!

Wow how did you do that?!

 

4

Very similar circumstances, but mine lasted 5 mins of normal driving after before the clunking started. :D 

SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted

Fairly standard for OEM mounts to be shagged, break like that and cause similar damage... It sucks, I've been lucky enough to do it but my turbo hit the strut bar, ripped off the cooler piping and lost power almost instantly causing no real damage.

Nismo are much better but tend to cause issues with the fan hitting the shroud

HarrisRacing Proficient

HarrisRacing

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Older ones but they looked and felt good. Strane to me where they both sheared where they are bonded to metal.

Don't have a video of this launch but do of others. I was just doing the burnout this time doing some testing.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
HarrisRacing Proficient

HarrisRacing

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Installed all of it yesterday. Getting those motor mounts in was a total PITA. The fan shroud, however, was easy (didn't even need to remove fan or belt).

Nismo Engine mounts

Nismo Transmission mounts

New Nissan fan shroud

Used axle (New CV boots)

New fan shroud

Cranked the car just to get it running. Ran no problem but I need to fill the front diff fluid level today and then I can drive it.

 

Needed to lower the subframe on each side while jacking engine up to get mounts in - managed to do this with axles in and most components still hooked up but was PITA running pry bar and all by myself while wedging the mounts into place.

 

My advice now is if you are EVER getting at your mounts or removing/installing the engine do the nismo mounts right then!

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

sounds like fun! just make sure its got the early transfer case with no preload on it. (ie with car up on a hoist you should be able to turn the front prop shaft with no resistance turning the rear shaft.

or you will kill it in rwd.

doo doo Proficient

doo doo

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, T04GTR said:

sounds like fun! just make sure its got the early transfer case with no preload on it. (ie with car up on a hoist you should be able to turn the front prop shaft with no resistance turning the rear shaft.

or you will kill it in rwd.

the preload in the 33 and 34 gtr is from the attest computer, it's not mechanically different to the 32. But I reckon the 32 still wears its plates a little even without the preload factor when running without the fuse, especially when dyno tuning. As long as the front prop shaft is out you'll have no dramas with the transfer case running the car in rwd.

doo doo Proficient

doo doo

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, T04GTR said:

sounds like fun! just make sure its got the early transfer case with no preload on it. (ie with car up on a hoist you should be able to turn the front prop shaft with no resistance turning the rear shaft.

or you will kill it in rwd.

the preload in the 33 and 34 gtr is from the attesa computer, it's not mechanically different to the 32. But I reckon the 32 still wears its plates a little even without the preload factor when running without the fuse, especially when dyno tuning. As long as the front prop shaft is out you'll have no dramas with the transfer case running the car in rwd.

Edited by doo doo
T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted
On 12/31/2016 at 6:45 PM, doo doo said:

the preload in the 33 and 34 gtr is from the attest computer, it's not mechanically different to the 32. But I reckon the 32 still wears its plates a little even without the preload factor when running without the fuse, especially when dyno tuning. As long as the front prop shaft is out you'll have no dramas with the transfer case running the car in rwd.

i beg to differ... i have been around the block a few times with these things., but i agree, pulling the shaft is the best choice. fuse out and crack off the bleeder and if it still drags you need to pull the shaft.

doo doo Proficient

doo doo

Posted
Posted
6 minutes ago, T04GTR said:

i beg to differ... i have been around the block a few times with these things., but i agree, pulling the shaft is the best choice. fuse out and crack off the bleeder and if it still drags you need to pull the shaft.

Yeah I know you know your stuff, I recall this being discussed on here a few years ago too, and as far as I'm aware you can disable the preload in the 33 via the computer. Happy to be proven wrong, I rebuild the transfer cases with increased preload now anyway which means pulling the shaft on the dyno. 

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
41 minutes ago, doo doo said:

Yeah I know you know your stuff, I recall this being discussed on here a few years ago too, and as far as I'm aware you can disable the preload in the 33 via the computer. Happy to be proven wrong, I rebuild the transfer cases with increased preload now anyway which means pulling the shaft on the dyno. 

How to put your R33 in to 2wd (from the manual):

Locate the "air bleed" wire behind the drivers kick panel, it's a plug with a single wire either side (usually green socket, white plug).

Disconnect it.

Start car. As key comes back to the ON position, within 10 seconds, depress brake pedal 5 times, 4WD light will start flashing to indicate you are in 2WD mode.

To go back to 4WD mode, turn car off, reconnect plug and off you go.

 

I have hooked mine to a switch in the centre console.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
HarrisRacing Proficient

HarrisRacing

Posted
  • Author
Posted

More dyno fun.

Finally moved my cam gears on the dyno. Spent 4 hours there yesterday (on a dynocomm inertial - which will soon be eddy brake). I now see what a V-cam would do for you. Moving my Poncam A's closer together (ie-more overlap) yielded undeniable tq gains with no appreciable drop in top end power (my 3" exhaust could be holding me back). I think it liked 8 total degrees of CRANK overlap (2 notches off from '0' on each cam) the best (Advanced intake 4, Retarded exhaust 4), but we did run add another 2 deg (crank) to the intake to bring it to 6 deg intake advance and 4 deg exhaust advance and this is where it stayed (for now). Super choppy idle now, but damn this car pulls like CRAZY now. makes 3 more psi boost at 4k rpms. When I compared 20 psi runs with cams set at 0 the tq goes to the stratosphere. Look at the differences from 4500 rpms to 7k! At 22 psi high number is now 653 whp and 515 wtq but boost control was shakey on these runs (oscillating from 22 down to 18).

It is making 300 WHP at 4k rpms on 20 psi...on 93 octane pumpgas! This is my 8374 EFR .92 IWG on a stock-bore 79mm BC stroker FYI.


58ab246eadbcb_DynoCamchangesconverted.thumb.JPG.403334239ea14914086aebe9dfb556eb.JPG58ab244687e7b_Lastdyno20psicamsset.thumb.jpg.a1565b209b5cae19e58f187a236c178f.jpg58aaff4ca6635_Justhighnumbers.thumb.jpg.e300231a1d0c3e828ae0fabf7265f6ae.jpg

  • Like 2
HarrisRacing Proficient

HarrisRacing

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, SimonR32 said:

Those cam gear changes certainly woke it up!

 

 

I'm really thinking the stroker geometry and slow top end piston speed must REALLY like more overlap than I was giving it with these small Poncam A's and straight up cam timing. I just drove it again...damn car is an ANIMAL! I can not wait to try another 1/4 mile run in it! I can only imagine what a 3.2 with V-cam would be like!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I wouldn't look too hard at what they did with the R32 GTR in endurance racing in Australia... Lots of things weren't actually available from the factory in the way those cars ran them... Japan also followed what Fred Gibson was doing here with some of there endurance cars in Japan... Australia is also the reason for things like the Brembo brakes, and the change in the gearbox... And quite a few other tricks they used to pull. There's a few other SAU peeps still on these forums that will have heard the stories direct from Alan Heaphy, Fred Gibson, and Jim Richards when we were lucky enough to have a great dinner with them
    • joshuaho96
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      For all the talk of "these parts are junk" I generally recommend OEM because it's really not as bad as claimed. I have never seen or heard of a case like the N63 where the oil returns completely clog with coked oil for example in ~10 years or less. Would it be nice if it were a straighter path? I guess, but most modern cars use a scavenge pump instead of a pure gravity return. Also the factory lines that would be relatively simple to convert to braided are generally speaking hardlines from the factory. I would consider braided line to be a regression, not an improvement. It's also been engineered such that all the hardlines have appropriate strain relief where needed. There's absolutely room for improvement, for example the HKS advantage heritage intake piping shows just how much can be done to make the turbos fight each other less in OEM twin turbo configuration and reduce compressor surge but it's rarely a simple/straightforward process. I recommend looking at what the group A/N1 cars did, generally speaking the changes they made were necessary and proven in endurance racing.
    • GTSBoy
      Turn signal wiring question

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, multi relays needed, and possibly a diode. I'm not actually going to think about it though.
    • VicFlo
      Speedo and odometer reading super slow r34gtt a/t

      By VicFlo · Posted

    • VicFlo
      Speedo and odometer reading super slow r34gtt a/t

      By VicFlo · Posted

      So I'm confident in saying its TCS thing. My new cluster I never realized didn't even have bulbs in the TCS or Slip slots. Shining a light through the backside that black plate has nothing for it, unlike my original cluster. Looking at the service manual the only thing that stands out is TCS in relation to the vehicle speed, it has nothing to do with turbos. It sadly looks like I may just need to get the appropriate cluster.
×
×
  • Create New...