R32 Gtr Build In Usa

[HarrisRacing]

Thanks for that.

I was seeing voltage issue in logs and high rpms were netting only 12.5V and low only 12.9-13V

Changed alternator

Now with headlights, AC on at idle this thing runs only 11.8V at idle still only 12.5V running. I may have some wiring issue somewhere. Need to check that out.

[k_d]

Is that reading from the battery or off the stud on the alternator? I ended up running another wire (4gauge i think?) from the alternator to the battery as i was down about 2v between the alternator and battery. Check your earths too, including the one on the back of the alternator. Mine was covered in filth and was causing issues. Gotta love 80s/90s electrics

[HarrisRacing]

We'll all hell if it ain't my luck. Found a big puddle of fluid on the ground under the car after driving it to work this morning. Turned out to be differential fluid from the front diff. After a quick check looks like either sheared off the CV shaft in the differential or it popped out somehow or perhaps the differential broke. I was feeling a shimmy when making pulls the last couple of times I drove it but couldn't tell if it was just a center diff coming on or not. I haven't launched the car in a while so I'm not sure what did it but the last time I push the gas the car almost went sideways from so much torque from the front left wheel. It's the right front CV shaft.

[HarrisRacing]

Turns out the nismo diff came with a c clip in it already...hadn't noticed. So when I rebuilt my front CV boots I installed a new one on the axle. I guess neither did the job because both were filling the gaps. Pulled one off the shaft and installed and it's good as gold and clipped in tight.

Whew! Was worried for a bit!

Will work on new alternator wiring tomorrow.

[HarrisRacing]

Just putting some more links and information.

Perhaps an all-in (max wheel speed) 8374 EFR Match-bot prediction for the future?

http://www.turbos.bwauto.com///////aftermarket/matchbot/index.html#version=1.3&displacement=2.75&CID=167.805&altitude=0&baro=14.706&aat=75&turboconfig=1&compressor=83s75&pt1_rpm=6000&pt1_ve=120&pt1_boost=31&pt1_ie=90&pt1_filres=0.5&pt1_ipd=1&pt1_mbp=1.7&pt1_ce=64&pt1_te=70&pt1_egt=1650&pt1_ter=3.34&pt1_pw=30.09&pt1_bsfc=0.55&pt1_afr=11.5&pt1_wts=300&pt1_wd=83&pt1_wd2=74&pt1_wrsin=69033&pt2_rpm=6500&pt2_ve=121&pt2_boost=27&pt2_ie=90&pt2_filres=0.5&pt2_ipd=1&pt2_mbp=1.9&pt2_ce=62&pt2_te=70&pt2_egt=1650&pt2_ter=3.21&pt2_pw=32.07&pt2_bsfc=0.57&pt2_afr=11.5&pt2_wts=320&pt2_wd=83&pt2_wd2=74&pt2_wrsin=73635&pt3_rpm=7000&pt3_ve=121&pt3_boost=24&pt3_ie=90&pt3_filres=0.5&pt3_ipd=1.1&pt3_mbp=2&pt3_ce=62&pt3_te=70&pt3_egt=1650&pt3_ter=3.07&pt3_pw=35.07&pt3_bsfc=0.58&pt3_afr=11.5&pt3_wts=340&pt3_wd=83&pt3_wd2=74&pt3_wrsin=78238&pt4_rpm=7500&pt4_ve=118&pt4_boost=22.5&pt4_ie=90&pt4_filres=0.5&pt4_ipd=1.2&pt4_mbp=2.1&pt4_ce=60&pt4_te=70&pt4_egt=1650&pt4_ter=3.05&pt4_pw=35.26&pt4_bsfc=0.59&pt4_afr=11.5&pt4_wts=368&pt4_wd=83&pt4_wd2=74&pt4_wrsin=84681&pt5_rpm=8000&pt5_ve=115&pt5_boost=21&pt5_ie=90&pt5_filres=0.5&pt5_ipd=1.3&pt5_mbp=2.1&pt5_ce=60&pt5_te=70&pt5_egt=1650&pt5_ter=2.98&pt5_pw=36.87&pt5_bsfc=0.65&pt5_afr=11.5&pt5_wts=400&pt5_wd=83&pt5_wd2=74&pt5_wrsin=92044&pt6_rpm=8500&pt6_ve=105&pt6_boost=21&pt6_ie=90&pt6_filres=0.5&pt6_ipd=1.5&pt6_mbp=2.2&pt6_ce=59&pt6_te=70&pt6_egt=1650&pt6_ter=2.98&pt6_pw=35.39&pt6_bsfc=0.7&pt6_afr=11.5&pt6_wts=400&pt6_wd=83&pt6_wd2=74&pt6_wrsin=92044&

And a dyno comparison of my 10 psi and 17 psi runs that I put together in excel.

 

[k_d]

Did you get that electrical problem sorted?

[HarrisRacing]

1 hour ago, k_d said:

Did you get that electrical problem sorted?

not 100%, but close. It's the A/C compressor clutch - must be something went bad in it because when I turn A/C on at idle, voltage drops like a rock only for that accessory which indicates a huge issue with current drain on that accessory. I installed 3 diodes in the sensing line of the alternator which bumped my voltage to around 14.2-14.3 V while running now - but fuel pressure still dwindles on top which just means I'm out of fuel pump. Turns out I don't think the AEM 380 is up to the task so what I'm going to do it go to twin Walbro 460's in tank very shortly since I already installed -8AN line splitting to dual -6AN to feed my Hypertune rail (preparation for E85 jump).

Thank you for asking. Voltage definitely affected my dead times on these injectors which didn't come with a card, so I had taken educated guesses at them (going to go to new injectors anyway so whatever).

 

 

[HarrisRacing]

Still pretty dang hot and extremely humid here (rains every afternoon), but I wanted to take the car out get some logs and make sure my new dead times were working out (wow that was stupid...no clue how I had them so off!). I must have accidentally loaded the old injector dead times and this voltage issue was showing that like crazy. Seems to be pulling pretty well for a street car on pumpgas (93 octane). These are 18 psi runs with some 20 psi spikes on shifting. That 8374 EFR is very well sized to the motor and makes for a very fun car to drive.

 

 

[HarrisRacing]

The slightly extended higher definition version (should be anyway)

[HarrisRacing]

Ran at the track last weekend. Still pumpgas and 18-19 psi boost on the 255 Hankook RS3 street tires. Only got two runs in:

Run 1 (straight off the highway still hot):
1.781 60'
[email protected] 1/8 mile
[email protected] 1/4 mile

Run 2 (only got two runs temp was 70 deg F)
1.695 60'
[email protected] 1/8 mile
11.19@ 121.7 1/4 mile

 

[HarrisRacing]

Finally solved my power steering belt issue.

I ordered the Fluidampr harmonic balancer for a R33/R34 since I have the later long-snout crankshaft in my car. This is not correct. The front bolt-on pulley of the R33/R34 Fluidampr balancer is 1/8" shorter than the earlier model to match up the power steering pulley location on the later model single-vane R33/R34 power steering pumps. The front pulley is exchangeable and the correct one FOR YOUR POWER STEERING PUMP should be ordered if you decide to go this route. Now the PS belt stays on just fine at high RPMS.

[HarrisRacing]

*****EDIT*********************************

This dyno was found to read 4.5% high after numerous stock cars were dyno'd on it and other dynos. The overall baseline was adjusted down and these dynos should have yielded only 601 whp. The later dyno where I played with cams has the 4.5% removed already.

********************************************

 

So my buddy bought a dyno from a shop that I previously dyno'd my old Supra on (video HERE). It did 366 rwhp at the time (downpipe and boost controller only). This was owned by a company called LETHAL RACING and if you look the dyno does read about what you'd expect to see by normal standards since their stock C7 Z06 did 571 whp and 576 tq which is right there at 650/650 factory rating after a 14% drivetrain figure (see stock C7 Z06 dyno HERE).

So my buddy now owns this in his shop MAD HATTER GARAGE and asked me to come shake down the dyno with him. Well I finally got a chance to do a little more tuning and here are the numbers from last night. It was a nice cool 68 deg F and I ran the car the whole time it was on the dyno so it never really got a cool down time. BUT I was able to get 2 more deg of timing in it and get a more consistent boost curve which resulted in about 50 more RWHP than before on pumpgas!! I'm going to convert the dyno pulls to excel so I can have my boost and AFR from my Haltech logs, but so far it looks like it's capable of 629 rwhp and 481 tq on pump at 19-20 psi. This turbo REALLY makes big changes on boost because the dip on the low end was where it was only 17.8 psi and I got it to sustain around 19.5 (which isn't even 2 psi) and the car (with no timing changes) made 40 more rwhp there. If the turbo keeps acting like this it will be insane at 27-30 psi!!! I did try 20.5 psi, but it would produce a touch of knock in places so I decided to leave it at 19.5 command.

Video of pull here

 

 

 

[HarrisRacing]

Gross. Broke a motor mount on launch...not good result. Broke the driver axle, pushed the whole motor down and towards the passenger side which destroyed my fan shroud and pushed my turbo into my hood damaging the under support (flattened it) and slightly bulged the hood. Yeah...don't trust factory mounts. I'll be welding these solid now.

[BakemonoRicer]

Would avoid solid mounts, I had solid poly mounts and the NVH was literally unbearable.

Changed to nismo and they are very nice, people complain about Nismo NVH but its nothing compared to solid man

[HarrisRacing]

Roger that. Ordered them

[HarrisRacing]

Since everyone likes pictures of broke junk! Also very thankful the turbo hit the strut brace and kept the motor from coming out of the hood!

[D-750]

Ouch!

[sneakey pete]

Holy sheet.

[reaper]

Solid effort

[PranK]

Yikes! 

Makes me think of my drive shaft.

But man, the rest of the damage is nuts. How hard was the launch?