Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys


i am looking for a engine rebuild soon for my rb26 in my r34 gtr vspec


i want to know where did you go for your rebuild and what was your experiences, and how much did it cost ? in sydney ***


looking at a workshop that can do drive in and drive out service


might even do a rb26/30 conversion ?


its a street driven car, chasing 400kw+


atm im running a stock motor with tomei poncams, arp head studs and single gt3582r turbo



cheers guys


I have not had a build done as yet but there are plenty of shops in Sydney plenty capable of building strong RB's!

JEM in Ingleburn do good work and have some big powered RBs running around!

400kw+ isn't unheard of on the stock RB26 with E85. You're not exactly on the bleeding edge either; odds are it would last reliably for years at that power level. Especially with ARP studs you can wind some serious boost in.

I'm no chemist or engineer but from what I'm told E85 burns in a way that is less harsh on the internals. So if you're worried about having stock pistons and rods E85 might give you a bit of a safety net there! Also if for some reason something goes wrong and you are given a lean condition under load (eg your FPR hose pops off or wastegate line splits), your tune is much further from detonation than a tune on 98 would be.

just something to think about. Good luck with it

I used Alex at Birrong automotive. His prices are high but probably lower than CRD Gas motorsport etc. My results are untested, as my car is "panel beater stuck". Alex struck me as meticulous passionate, with good knowledge, like many "his way or the high way". He drags an RB R33. The posts above show sound reasoning, technology supports a Nissan built motor. Best Wishes.

Edited by DR 32R

Drive in drive out at a shop - prepare to get $$ raped.

If price is a question it's best to learn to do this yourself, rather than pay anyone. As already noted the factory makeup is already well equipped enough to hold what you want so a little over engineering on pistons, rods and studs should be more than adequate, and is something any reasonable mechanic can achieve with a little brain power.

You will spend 5 grand doing this yourself and knowing you did everything 100% or 15 grand at a shop which would more than likely have their local reconditioner assemble the motor for them. I have a few friends in the industry and this is the general norm, these big name shops seldom actually assemble the motors post machining. Those motors have a tendancy to come back with clearance/tolerance issues and/or issues with cleanliness leading to bad contamination damage. I am rebuilding 2 motors right now previously built by pros with these exact flaws (I am not a mechanic).

Do it once, do it right, do it yourself.

My 2c.

Well said. The fact is, if you want it done right do it yourself. There might even be a couple of guys on here that might want to help. Of course time is our enemy. Not all of us have it. The good builders charge high prices but there is still no guarantee they won't make a mistake. Having one shop build it, install it and tune it is the only way I'd pay a work shop. Get all your parts off E-Bay 1st and save a fortune. Don't expect too many people to name names as we don't want o cause legal issues. However, you may receive a few PM's.

  • Like 1

Hi all,

Been down this path many times before. I have built over 10 motors in my lifetime, from when I was a struggling uni student to now (a struggling man with mortgages). Building to a budget and trying to save $$$ is hit and miss. There are way to many variables to go wrong. And instantly a blame game starts.

I am fortunate enough to now get work done at Powertune Aust. It is about this time last year I approached them having lost all faith and passion in owning a GTR and racing it.

All work done in house. All responsibility taken with a fall warranty on all work. Just remember the saying "poor man pays twice"

no doubt there are some very clued up peeps on this forums who are skilled enough to screw a engine together but that in my opinion is only a quarter of the exercise.

Happy to answer any questions over PM

:cheers:

  • Like 1

Tool skill being a quarter of it, sure. The other 3 quarters lie in first hand experience, most of which can be read on forums like this and are authored by people like those in this thread.

Just need to be bothered enough to read, and read for long enough, so that you can save that 10k for something more important.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...