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R34 Vs R35 - Not School Holidays Yet, This Is Not What You Think.


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I thought I might weigh in on this on

I have

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Which is now a 3.0 with a responsive 458kw at all 4

So I thinking is this, the 35 is bullshit fast

The 34 is every kids wet dream :thumbsup:

Growing old is manditory, growing up is optional

Enough said :D

I think I will be asking for a passenger session at the track day in your car lol.

The Skyline GT-R is legend. The history of it is what creates much of its mystique. Nothing can really match that.

Admittedly, they do need to be heavily modified to live up to their reputation.

The R35 by comparison....well, I just don't think it'd provide 'that feeling'. Its lacking the nostalgia of the earlier Skylines.

I'm currently working two jobs now, in an effort to save up for a BCNR33 V-Spec 97/98 in Black. Finding this car in Grade 4.5 condition is very rare....so may take a while to find and it looks like I'd have to pay around $35,000 to net one.

Very hard to resist spending on the S15 though lol.

Would ideally buy the R33 as an already fully built monster. 550-700ps spec would be the sweet spot.

To maintain the upkeep of a R34 with 400kw at the wheels would cost more than servicing an R35. The R35 makes 400kw with a flash tune and is reliable on the race track. Cant say I have seen to many RB's with that power be reliable at the track....

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The Skyline GT-R is legend. The history of it is what creates much of its mystique. Nothing can really match that.

Admittedly, they do need to be heavily modified to live up to their reputation.

I don't think so, my 32 is a good example, nothing heavily modified about it, just simple boltons

To maintain the upkeep of a R34 with 400kw at the wheels would cost more than servicing an R35. The R35 makes 400kw with a flash tune and is reliable on the race track. Cant say I have seen to many RB's with that power be reliable at the track....

I don't do anything more for the 34 then the 32, except the bigger sump takes more oil, it really comes down to how you use the car

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To maintain the upkeep of a R34 with 400kw at the wheels would cost more than servicing an R35. The R35 makes 400kw with a flash tune and is reliable on the race track. Cant say I have seen to many RB's with that power be reliable at the track....

I would have to disagree, 400kw on a built 34 is quite easy now with e85. All it reuqires is an oil and filter change. So just the cost of the oil really nothing more.

Power level, in my experience, has minimal impact on actual maintenance costs Ash has done some god work with oil for a street car.

You control the quality of the components you use and in all honesty any reputable brand oil and oil filter combo will be fine. You might spend a bit more on spark plugs but they will tend to last longer as a result. Air filters for most of us are washable/cheaply replaced.

Ash (on here) has done some good work with oil testing and found, if I recall, that most of us are jumping the gun with 5k oil changes anyway. The oil is still viable and doing its job.

Has a R34 for last 3 and bit years and thinking a bit about R35s, but still a bit pricey for a weekend toy (purchase and to maintaince) in my opinion.

since i have not driven a R35, i dont know how a good dual cluth will feel vs a manual (emotinal aspect of it) when driven on the weekends for mostly fun / theater of it.

as a daily or occational daily surely the R35 wins hands down everytime.

I would have to disagree, 400kw on a built 34 is quite easy now with e85. All it reuqires is an oil and filter change. So just the cost of the oil really nothing more.

Your point is correct easy to get 400kw on e85 with a rb26. Now take it to the track drive it on its limits on formula R tyres. Unless you spend 30k to build a rb26 correctly with a dry sump you will have an issue over time. Buy the time you buy a nice R34 and build a good set up to be reliable cost the same as a r35....

I think most people have a different understanding of reliable track car to me... Anyone can slap together a 400kw road car that can make dyno number that's not hard.

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I know but as soon you drive a R35 on the track you will want to all the time. When I got my R35 I said will leave it near stock and do one or two track days a year for some fun. That soon changed when a few little mods get added and makes your full race car look slow.

My full trim street R35 on DOT tyres is faster than my Corvette Z06 race car on full slicks :)

You can tell yourself all you want it's for street use only but it wont stay that way....

I've been enjoying this thread alot

I ultimately had the same sort of debate when I bought my 33, admittedly that was between a 32 and a 33 so alot closer.


just another thing to consider perhaps..... build numbers???

I recently went to Sydney (from country NT) and in 4 days I seen no fewer than 11 35 GTR's

Is exclusivity a factor?

I wouldn't say 'exclusivity' as such. But Price yes.

There is a huge difference between 45K to 95K. To be purchasing a 35 at approx 95k, you would have to be earning around 6 figures a year. Or, you have some capital behind you (property etc)

Market Value and Trend Line are more relevant criteria pertaining to the last two posts but of course contingent upon build numbers, auction figures in Japan, model type and condition.

R35 GTR:- Market Value between $90-165K

Trend Line is one of varying degrees of depreciation - steeper comparatively against BNR34s

R34 GTR:- Market Value of non-V-Spec $35-40K with Trend Line of mild depreciation.

Market Value of V-Spec $40-50K with Trend Line of mild depreciation.

Market Value of V-Spec II $55-67K with Trend Line static.

Market Value of V-Spec II Nur $80-105K with Trend Line of mild appreciation.

Market Value of M-Spec Nur $87-110K with Trend Line static or mildly appreciating.

Market Value of V-Spec N1 $110-130K with Trend Line of mild appreciation.

Market Value of V-Spec II N1 $120-155K with Trend Line static or appreciating mildly.

Sums Insured are even a fraction higher which is quite typical.

I've been enjoying this thread alot

I ultimately had the same sort of debate when I bought my 33, admittedly that was between a 32 and a 33 so alot closer.

just another thing to consider perhaps..... build numbers???

I recently went to Sydney (from country NT) and in 4 days I seen no fewer than 11 35 GTR's

Is exclusivity a factor?

I think either will be "exclusive" enough where I'm from though that's less of a factor for me as is making the right choice and being happy with it.

I wouldn't say 'exclusivity' as such. But Price yes.

There is a huge difference between 45K to 95K. To be purchasing a 35 at approx 95k, you would have to be earning around 6 figures a year. Or, you have some capital behind you (property etc)

I'd be looking at a VS2 so the price gap would be a bit closer. I wouldn't be considering either if I couldn't afford them but I'm in my 30s and have worked hard to be where I am, I'm not rich by any stretch, just sensible with my cash.

As I'm not rich, R35 maintenance costs scare me a little when compared to the 34, plus I'm far more familair with the RB26 and associated platform.

Market Value and Trend Line are more relevant criteria pertaining to the last two posts but of course contingent upon build numbers, auction figures in Japan, model type and condition.

R35 GTR:- Market Value between $90-165K

Trend Line is one of varying degrees of depreciation - steeper comparatively against BNR34s

R34 GTR:- Market Value of non-V-Spec $35-40K with Trend Line of mild depreciation.

Market Value of V-Spec $40-50K with Trend Line of mild depreciation.

Market Value of V-Spec II $55-67K with Trend Line static.

Market Value of V-Spec II Nur $80-105K with Trend Line of mild appreciation.

Market Value of M-Spec Nur $87-110K with Trend Line static or mildly appreciating.

Market Value of V-Spec N1 $110-130K with Trend Line of mild appreciation.

Market Value of V-Spec II N1 $120-155K with Trend Line static or appreciating mildly.

Sums Insured are even a fraction higher which is quite typical.

Throw in a forthcoming R36 and I'd expect to see R35 prices drop further, which I'm mindful of. I realise you don't "lose" anything in terms of car value unless you actually sell, but I still wouldn't want to drop 90-100k on a car and see it's value drop 10-20k purely because the R36 get's released (2015/16 I think was rumoured).

I realise this isn't a very good comparrison here but reading over this thread has been really informative about what I am tossing up over in terms of which car to buy. I currently own a 2014 Ralliart which is a twin clutch paddle shift just like the GTR only far less advanced and no where near as strong but from a daily driver perspective the twin clutch auto is responsive and the car basically drives itself and does all the thinking/calculating and adapts to your driving style. It was really cool to begin with but I have found that I am bored as I can't manipulate it or bond with it quite like how you could with a manual car. Im impressed with how advanced the car is but like i was saying, the car basically drives itself. I realise an RA is by no means a good comparrison compared to a new GTR but they are kind of similar (moreso with the gearbox design).

I loved the look / sounds and overall performance of the R34 Gtr's and that is what I am looking to buy. I do miss driving a manual and being able to be able to fully control the car and being able to have some kind of input in the driving style (without having thousands of sensors and computing power to do everything for me like how the new GTR's do as well as the Evo's WRX ect ect). The price tag between a new GTR and an R34 gtr is quite big and as some of you have said, unless you earn well into the 6 digit figures or have some investments to back you up, it's not viable spending that kind of money on a car when you can spend allot less and get a nice looking R34 and drop some money into it to bring it up to a new GTR standard. I'm no expert with either car however I would think that the price difference between a 34 and 35 you could spend doing up a R34 and still be very happy with the results.

one thing that hasn't really been touched which i am curious about is if you had the choice between a stock 34 gtr, Vspec 1, Vspec 2 or N spec, and you were going to spend a decent amount of money upgrading them to say 600-700Whp which would you choose and why. I'm not sure if this has been covered in other threads so I appologies in advance if that is the case, but given the wide range of input I am curious to see what people think.

BNR34s:- A Nur or N1 with the stamped 24U block is the one to get.

Huge difference with specific N1 water pump, water channels, balanced crank, rings, seals etc.

N1 oil pump and turbos may need to be replaced but the N1 block is a great base to work with.

I bought the VSII because I wanted the black interior, I didn't realise they came with the CF bonnet till I went and test drove my one

If your going for 6-700whp then a rebuild is best and at which point you look and all the bolt on stuff any way, I didn't worry about the N1 block because I was always going to go the 3.0 as it will and does make that kind power more drivable then the 2.6 can

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