Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

So I fitted a pair of new Garrett -9 turbos to my R34 GT-R (new genuine gaskets/washers etc) and once I put it all back together & fluids back in I noticed I had coolant leaking from my rear turbo Eye bolt water line. Here a pic of what I mean:

IMG_20140830_00179.jpg

Then I remembered that I had forgotten the special note on the R32 GT-R workshop manual (couldnt find R34 GT-R's but should be the same?) that stated:

Turbo_removal_03.jpg

I only now realised this is to make it easier to fit the eye bolt without damaging the copper crush washers etc. Naturally I'm like FFS! >,<

Anyhoo long story short I got new/genuine copper crush washers and followed the above instruction and re-fitted eye bolt & both washers (easier now that it was loose). Confident that it should be right now I added coolant and bam - its still leaking!! :(

So my question to you guys now is have I f#cked up the threaded connection of the eye bolt to turbo?? Ie - the Eye bolt thread looked fine but Im thinking the mating side?
Confused as to what it could be now :(

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Edited by xanavinismo

If you have both copper washers fitted and have done it up tight enough, and its still leaking, then i would be checking for a crack in the pipe somewhere. copper washers aren't that fragile. are both mating surfaces for the copper washers clean?

Thanks for replies guys, i'll give both mating surfaces a look.

So if it is in fact that one (or both) mating surfaces are damaged, what is the best way of going about 'cleaning' them?

Cheers,

Edited by xanavinismo

if you have a buff gun that is the easiest way to do it. You basically want a nice smooth surface with no gouges/scratches etc

check the steel line doesnt have any cracks as well if I havent already said that

Haha yeah unfortunately I dont have one :( So i'll more then likely have to go the file & honing stone method. Though where can I get these honing stones? Never heard of it =P

And yes i'll also look for any physical cracks on the pipe too when I pull it apart...

Haha yeah unfortunately I dont have one :( So i'll more then likely have to go the file & honing stone method. Though where can I get these honing stones? Never heard of it =P

And yes i'll also look for any physical cracks on the pipe too when I pull it apart...

Any tool shop or probably bunnings. Get a "pocket stone" they are about 60x20x12mmm and are very handy for tidying up faces. Also use full for sharpening knives etc.

Okay kool, will give it a look.

Also is it safe to say that it doesnt take much to damage both mating surfaces? Ie - from trying to force the water line onto the turbo mounting point, & also rubbing against copper washer?

Yeah fair enough man

Okay so heres pics of the water line...
IMG_20140905_00192.jpg IMG_20140905_00194.jpg IMG_20140905_00195.jpg IMG_20140905_00196.jpg

So as you can see rough as hell!

Now heres pics of the mounting point (on turbo side)

IMG_20140905_00184.jpg IMG_20140905_00185.jpg IMG_20140905_00187.jpg IMG_20140905_00191.jpg

Now from what I could see, it doesnt look anywhere near like the water line and could in fact be okay :)

Please let me know what you guys think?

Cheers,

It is very likely that the turbo side is ok. The lines are quite soft.

You can easily file then stone that damage out, or just replace it.

Edited by Ben C34

Depends what file and how good you are with a file doesn't it!

But fair call, a beginner with a bastard file could make a real mess of it.

Edited by Ben C34

The fine side of the sharpening stone will do, just make sure you do it square taking an even amount off all round, to much one side or the other or it will leak

You are doing it up tight enough yeah ?

I'm with Callan on this one, its worth it to get a new one for piece of mind

I am happy to report that its all bolted up now and there are no more leaks! (so far :) )

So yes the filing & pocket stone method has worked!

Thanks so much for the info & help guys!

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Actually,  just remembered there should be info in the threads (somewhere) about swapping to a manual steering rack and deleting power steering all together. 
    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
    • Nah, the car seems to run exactly as it did prior, in saying this it does "seem" to be better down low, like more eager to rev, but that may be 100% placebo effect from intake noise But, I'm not worried about it at all, in the end it is a fairly low compression NA engine that has a well shrouded intake,  if it is getting hotter IAT I cannot notice anything negative performance wise from the seat of my pants thrashing it about on the street or sitting in traffic, so meh, car now now makes induction noise so I'm happy
×
×
  • Create New...