Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The collar was warmed and pressed on. I believe this is the best way to do it

instructions from Kiwi:

1. Our collars have precision ground internal bores which make it easy to gain the required .002 interference fit to shaft.

Crankshaft must be machined by an engine shop/ crankshaft grinder. Must be ground with a finish similar to a crank journal.

Most crankshaft grinder operators are familiar with the precise measuring to gain the .002” interference.

The collar should never be fitted relying on the grub screws to hold it, with the correct .002 thou press on/ interference fit the collar will have sufficient hold to the crank. The grub screws are only to assure it not turning in event of pump lockup etc.

2. Gently warm collar to a light straw color and with a suitable mandrel knock the collar on very smartly.

NOTE, the heat soak from the collar will grab it very quickly so it must be a very fast knock on technique to assure it fitting home easily.

3. Fit grub screws at journal end of collars at 180 deg away from each other, to ensure screws do not hit the crank bolt when doing up bolt.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

I picked up the block today. The machinist said it definitely needed a skim, a stone didn't do the job properly. So thank you for making me do that. It came out mint!

now it's cleaning time before I can check the ring gaps then install the crank, rods and pistons and measure deck height.

One quick question: What are those dowel things that sit in the deck? are they necessary and what are they for?

post-113447-0-68405900-1411701990_thumb.jpg

post-113447-0-11724100-1411701996_thumb.jpg

post-113447-0-19777100-1411702003_thumb.jpg

Oh yeah I just realised the dowels sit around the threads where the head bolts down. Because I'm using studs I won't need any help to align the head surely

You definitely still need to use the dowels. The clearance on the hole in the head to the studs is heaps compared to the dowels

USE THE DOWELS!

  • Like 1

I'm going to add to this thread and probably get flamed for this but meh fark it

The engine in my 32 is a bits from two engines :)

Engine 1 spun big end, engine 2 blown ringlands, I took the crank and main bearings out of engine two with one rod and piston with the same piston number as the spun bearing piston in engine 1, I replaced only big ends with ACLs and rings with genuine Nissan and a 1.1mm Cosworth HG

I honed block with the stone type and wiped it down with wet toilet paper :yes: measured and adjusted rings, razored the block and head and reassembled

That engine has been in car since 2007 making 293rwkw and has run 11.1, was only suppose to be in there till I built a proper forged motor for it then bought the 34 and has never been changed and I cain the absolute shit out of that motor and it just won't break :(

Moral of this story I'm trying to get across is everything doesn't have to be 100000% perfect for an engine to work or last you just have to make sure you do all the bolts and nuts up properly and clean surfaces enough so they are smooth without anything left from old gaskets or seals :thumbsup:

Oh and a good tuner doesn't hurt :D

  • Like 2

Thanks for the advice mate, good to hear your backyard engine is still alive after 7 years of abuse! It's easy to be pedantic but I'm just making sure I haven't missed anything major.

After cleaning the crank with kerosene and compressed air I plastigauged the main bearings and they all came up fine. Then installed the crank for hopefully the final time.

I just borrowed a ring compressor so I can throw the pistons in this afternoon

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • With stone chips, you really can't just try to fill them. You really have to sand that spot to lower the edges of the chip, so that the filler will end up covering a wider patch than just the chip. Otherwise, you're trying to have a sharp edged paint surface match up to some filler, and they just do not sand the same and you always end up with a noticable transition. A bunch of adjacent chips should be well sanded back, to round off all those edges, and use a lot (in a relative sense) of filler to raise the whole area back.
    • To expand on this to help understanding... The bigger/longer the block is, the more it's going to work to sit on your far away high areas, and not touch the low stuff in the middle. When you throw the guide coat, and give it a quick go with a big block, guide coat will disappear in the high spots. If those high spots are in the correct position where the panel should be, stop sanding, and fill the low spots. However, using a small block, you "fall off" one of the high spots, and now your sanding the "side of the hill". Your little block would have been great for the stone chips, where you only use a very small amount of filler, so you're sanding and area let's say the size of a 5/10cent piece, with something that is 75*150. For the big panel, go bigger!   And now I'll go back to my "body work sucks, it takes too much patience, and I don't have it" PS, I thought your picture with coloured circles was an ultra sound... That's after my brain thought you were trying to make a dick and balls drawing...
    • Oh I probably didn't speak enough about the small sanding block for blocking large areas.  In the video about 3 minutes in, he talks about creating valleys in the panel. This is the issue with using a small sanding block for a large area, it's way too easy to create the valleys he is talking about. With a large block its much easier to create a nice flat surface.  Hard to explain but in practice you'll notice the difference straight away using the large block. 
    • Yep I guessed as much. You'll find life much easier with a large block something like this -  https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/dura-block-long-hook-loop-sanding-block-100-eva-rubber-af4437 This is a good demo video of something like this in use -    You have turned your small rock chip holes into large low spots. You'll need to fill and block these low spots.  It's always a little hard not seeing it in person, but yes I would go ahead and lay filler over the whole area. Have a good look at the video I linked, it's a very good example of all the things you're doing. They went to bare metal, they are using guide coat, they are doing a skim coat with the filler and blocking it back. If what you're doing doesn't look like what they are doing, that's a big hint for you  
×
×
  • Create New...