Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As title says, what is the absolute most responsive aftermarket turbo available for an RB25?

The factory turbo on R33's delivers great response and driveability and can deliver around 10psi of boost safely without spinning the ceramic turbine wheel off.

If not for the ceramic turbine wheel, would I be correct in assuming that the factory turbo would be able to deliver roughly 14psi without losing efficiency, and make around 230rwkw?

Is there a turbo with similar A/R's, trims etc to the factory Garrett but with steel/inconel/alloy wheels?

If so name it please!

We can high flow your standard turbo that has similar response to factory, while making a lot more power.

That is 20psi by 3400RPM maxing 320rwkws on E85. We usually seeing around the 260rwkws on P98 fuel.

Every thing looks stock standard, and bolt back on the way it was. No fabrications required.

I just sold my #hypergear highflow because it was too uneconomical for me to run. The power was great, but I don't need or want "20psi by 3400rpm". I can't afford the fuel costs or supporting mods to run 320rwkws.

I literally want the little factory Garrett but with a metal turbine wheel, so I can run a measly 12-14psi and make a little over 220rwkws on PULP with a PowerFC. I want full boost at ~2500rpm like the stock turbo!

:)

I've got one on an RB25det as a street car. With boost leaks it will make 20psi by about 3300RPM uphill in 4th.

you never have to change down gear above 50km/h in 4th.

but it doesn't respond as well as the stock turbo. The factory turbo makes the car feel like a small block chevy compared to the highflow. But it has major drawbacks.

If rebuilt to standard specs with a better bearing cartridge and steel wheels I'm sure you won't lose much response and on e85 you could push probably up towards 16-18psi. Remember ceramic/nylon wheels are lighter (I assume) which helps transient response

  • Like 1

The factory turbo makes the car feel like a small block chevy compared to the highflow...

Yes!! And that's what I want!

I've had a 270rwkw Skyline, and as fun as it was, it was more fun around town (where I drive most) with the stock turbo. Next to no lag, and enough power to have fun.

Edited by colourclassic

Just send it to Hypergear and ask for it to be rebuilt to standard Nissan specs but with steel wheels and not high flowed.

Can hypergear do this?

Edited by colourclassic

Stock turbocharger was making 10psi by 2800RPM. Any thing that build boost faster results in compressor surges on partial load.

Most of the high flows I've done were built to generate about 260rwkws on P98 fuel. I can build some thing smaller to match factory boost curve, that works with standard ECU also.

By the way, The original turbocharger that I've high flowed for you was a Neo turbo. R33 turbine housings are smaller, in comparison is 500RPM more responsive.

A good used HKS 2535 may be what you need.

Crazy response, but will choke at top end. 230rwkw type of power.

I think they can handle high teens worth of boost.

or for a little bigger look at the HKS GT-RS

Stock turbocharger was making 10psi by 2800RPM. Any thing that build boost faster results in compressor surges on partial load.

Most of the high flows I've done were built to generate about 260rwkws on P98 fuel. I can build some thing smaller to match factory boost curve, that works with standard ECU also.

By the way, The original turbocharger that I've high flowed for you was a Neo turbo. R33 turbine housings are smaller, in comparison is 500RPM more responsive.

This^^

Stock turbocharger was making 10psi by 2800RPM. Any thing that build boost faster results in compressor surges on partial load.

Most of the high flows I've done were built to generate about 260rwkws on P98 fuel. I can build some thing smaller to match factory boost curve, that works with standard ECU also.

By the way, The original turbocharger that I've high flowed for you was a Neo turbo. R33 turbine housings are smaller, in comparison is 500RPM more responsive.

If you can build something which will match the factory boost curve/response, please PM the info Stao! I'd prefer a roller bearing CHRA too if possible!

You know the bigger the turbo the more economical the car is? :)

You're not always on boost haha.

In saying that, if you're after response check out Borg Warner turbos. They're truly amazing however will burn a hole through your pocket

Sounds like you're after my setup...

MX Performance exhaust manifold (with 1" runners), External wastegate with HKS GT-RS turbo with internal wastegate removed and welded closed.

With this setup the turbo is just as responsive as stock ~ 5 psi at 2000 rpm, however it has around 280 rwkw. Economy wise, I average around 10litres/100km.

My car is a daily drive, so I wanted no compromises on driveability... Check out my build thread for more info...

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409509-rynos-r32-over-a-decade-and-counting/

  • Like 1

There's also some companies offering bolt ons (exhaust side at least) for the GTX2860/63/67. Probably better off getting Hypergear to refurb a stock turbo, but throwing it out there for interest.

SonicPerformance is doing turbo with housing:

http://www.sonicperformance.com.au/Turbocharger-Upgrades/Nissan/Skyline-_dash_-Single-Turbo/pl.php

Kudos has a kit on GTX2867 only:

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/garrett-turbocharger-kit-garrett-gtx2867r-nissan-skyline-r33-gts25t-r34-25gtt-rb25det-special-introductory-price-p-1459.html

Currently running a td05-18g, previously a hypergear hiflow, on r33/rb25. Both good for comparable to stock response, for the OP i would prob go with Stao's offer to build u one for your needs. I like the td05 but not really worth the dicking around to get to fit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That ring thing is interesting how it's holding everything together 
    • Hey guys. I have a 400R on its way to Australia from Japan currently and have a few questions I’m hoping others may be able to help with.   Wondering if anyone here has had any luck getting the Sat nav unit to work in Australia!? Assuming the Stereo is as simple as a band expanded and tv won’t work?  Seeing as they’re based off a Q50 which is Aus delivered is there any way to link that system to the nav? Nav modules and head unit are different part numbers and appear slightly different at the rear with plug ins etc. can I put my xtrail sd card into the rv37 and will that convert the maps or update to Australian? Has anyone got any advice here?     also has anyone fitted the factory remote start and Security system once it’s landed in Australia? I put an enquirey to Nissan Japan in via a third party, and they suggested it needs a Nissan Japan dealers device to setup and couldn’t guarantee if one here could do it or not. They can supply and I can physically fit it but to setup I would need a dealers device. Any information here would be appreciated also. I’ve seen one here with it fitted already prior to leaving Japan at a dealer/inporter, so clearly passes compliance and works when fitted Japan and doesn’t need changing here.      also, does the tyre inflation sensors work here? Does anything change with them when the vehicle arrives? Where are they actually situated? I’ve read they have batteries and they need to changing at times and seems like resetting involves the nav system?    any help here would be appreciated and any other aust specific information to help would be great. Looking forward to see what the current generation skyline is like and eager to see how many of the gadgets can be utilised here.  Thanks in advance 
    • Do need to take it with a pinch of salt. One of the adapter failures, they clearly had setup issues with the flywheel.  One of the slipping ones I spoke to and it was pretty clear the throwout was riding, rather than fix, just swapped to a new clutch.    These clutches are being put in anything from 5k offroad 4x4 beaters, GR yaris, 500hp commodores to 1200hp barra monsters. Bound to be some issues in some of them when they are not a simple bolt in affair due to the changes in height.    There is a lot going on in this picture and unless I did the job myself no way to tell what really happened. 
    • I did this mod in 2019  You just have to modify the top bracket of the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU so it sits more upright and closer to the back seat and run a good quality positive battery lead from the engine bay, the negative lead i just bolted down to the body in the boot.
    • Damn... Not the feedback I want to hear.
×
×
  • Create New...