Wheel Alignment Question, Car Feeling More Skittish

[GTSBoy]

A little toe in on the rear will feel a lot better. If you don't like the way it tramlines and moves around now, you won't like it with zero toe on the rear.

Remember, zero toe static becomes toe out when moving.

You do not want zero camber at either end. -1 at the front, -0.75 at the rear are good numbers to give you SOME cornering grip and not wear out the tyres and not tramline too much. Zeroish camber will suck bogs balls.

Your caster number at the rear is not a useful value. Just throw it away - it's not something that is measured/talked about at the rear in the same way that it is at the front.

[Nismo 3.2ish]

A little toe in on the rear will feel a lot better. If you don't like the way it tramlines and moves around now, you won't like it with zero toe on the rear.

Remember, zero toe static becomes toe out when moving.

You do not want zero camber at either end. -1 at the front, -0.75 at the rear are good numbers to give you SOME cornering grip and not wear out the tyres and not tramline too much. Zeroish camber will suck bogs balls.

Your caster number at the rear is not a useful value. Just throw it away - it's not something that is measured/talked about at the rear in the same way that it is at the front.

Understand, was not quite sure about the camber and those numbers sound good and I will ask for those,I was going to ask for a little bit, well -0.5 or -1.

Could not find too much about the rear Castor settings and tossed in the front number, well it seems 5 to 7 for the front is a safe setting, so + 6 , is there a number to consider for the rear or zero.

As the first one will be free I feel I can play a little, sort of trial and error but with some homework tossed in to get something that could work

[GTSBoy]

1mm toe-in at the rear is a safe place to start.

[Nismo 3.2ish]

1mm toe-in at the rear is a safe place to start.

will do, thanks

[GH05T]

i had a shop set up my c34 stag with positive rear tow while it had natural un-addressed rear camber from lowering. that was one of the weirdest unstable feelings ever on highways and overtaking.
they got yelled at.

[Nismo 3.2ish]

i had a shop set up my c34 stag with positive rear tow while it had natural un-addressed rear camber from lowering. that was one of the weirdest unstable feelings ever on highways and overtaking.

they got yelled at.

what did you end up having things set at ?

[Nismo 3.2ish]

He was suggesting that you run some toe-in in order to minimise tramlining behaviour, while saying that he runs zero toe (because he doesn't care about/suffer from tramlining).

I missed what he meant , I took it he had +8 degrees of castor on the front , Zero toe on the front and 1mm on the rear.

Is 8 degrees a lot of castor ?

From some of the info I have read, the right castor makes it track much better, less tramlining maybe?

I am going to try and get my last alignment specs, I tossed it because I could not understand it, maybe now I can ?

[GTSBoy]

No, he said he had zero toe at the front (whilst recommending you run some toe-in). IIRC he said he had small toe-in at the rear, as anyone would.

8 degrees of caster is actually quite a lot for Skyline front ends. It puts a lot of load into the bushes. It is doable. It could well be quite liveable/survivable on the newer cars (33s & 34s) but I would not attempt it on an R32 without some other supporting mods. I think I only have about 5 degrees caster in my R32. It is definitely better (to drive) when there is more, but I could feel how stiff and loaded the front suspension was, so I don't wind it up so much any more.

[Nismo 3.2ish]

No, he said he had zero toe at the front (whilst recommending you run some toe-in). IIRC he said he had small toe-in at the rear, as anyone would.

8 degrees of caster is actually quite a lot for Skyline front ends. It puts a lot of load into the bushes. It is doable. It could well be quite liveable/survivable on the newer cars (33s & 34s) but I would not attempt it on an R32 without some other supporting mods. I think I only have about 5 degrees caster in my R32. It is definitely better (to drive) when there is more, but I could feel how stiff and loaded the front suspension was, so I don't wind it up so much any more.

Oh ok, + 8 Degrees of castor seemed a lot from what I have found out so far ,it seemed 5-6 Ds was closer, but only just started looking 2 days ago.

Spoke to the mob that did my alignment and their computer deletes work sheets after 3 months so I could not find out what the setting were.

I think from what has been said so far is close to my idea of what to ask for, well except , is there any Castor preference on the rear wheels, if any ?

Sorry but when you know SFA about something it takes a little while to get your melon around it

[GTSBoy]

, is there any Castor preference on the rear wheels, if any ?

See post #41, last paragraph.

[Nismo 3.2ish]

See post #41, last paragraph.

Mate you have been very helpful in my effort to build my car and I may be dense and alignment is something I am trying to understand, but what does this mean ?

"Your caster number at the rear is not a useful value. Just throw it away - it's not something that is measured/talked about at the rear in the same way that it is at the front."

What is the answer, what value do you suggest for the rear end or what is suggested by the experts ?

[Duncan]

castor is neither adjustable nor relevant for the rear, castor is only useful on the front wheels as it adds camber to the outside wheel when you steer.

[Nismo 3.2ish]

castor is neither adjustable nor relevant for the rear, castor is only useful on the front wheels as it adds camber to the outside wheel when you steer.

Thanks, as I know SFA about this subject + many others and I could not find anything with castor figure specs for the rear wheels, probably because from what you have said there is nothing to find.

But my old mate always said , there are no stupid questions, just stupid answers

[Duncan]

you calling me stupid motherf**ker?

[Duncan]

[KiwiRS4T]

Thanks, as I know SFA about this subject + many others and I could not find anything with castor figure specs for the rear wheels, probably because from what you have said there is nothing to find.

But my old mate always said , there are no stupid questions, just stupid answers

Castor as in the front wheel of your bicycle keeps you going in a straight line - 5 - 7deg is good on a Skyline and as with a bike not necessary on the rear

[Nismo 3.2ish]

you calling me stupid motherf**ker?

I was saying, I ask some dumb arse questions

Have no idea if your answers are stupid as I know shit all about this. I always get good feedback from you.Like your answer to castor, easy to understand and helped me get my head around it. I said thanks in my post!

So you understand, if I was going to call you stupid, I would just say, you are stupid or don't be stupid or you stupid motherf**ker, you know , straight to the point!

I have been on the site for a while now and without blokes like you I would know SFA, I learn from your experiences and it has saved me a lot of time and $s.

[Nismo 3.2ish]

you calling me stupid motherf**ker?

As an Admin bloke ,can you talk like this ?

See that is a stupid question, because you did talk like that

I should have said, As an Admin bloke , SHOULD you talk like this

[Sinista32]

Minimal toe in (1 to 1.5) front and rear. It will straighten up as you drive. Although some prefer 0 at the rear

Caster at the front only. As much as you can get which is up to around 6 (R32) and without scrub occurring. Also slightly more on the left if you can manage it so you drift away from the gutter. (after your heart failure )

Camber for road use between -1.5 to -2 to assist cornering and minimise tyre wear.

That is what I was learned Peter when I first started out in the world of skyliners

[Nismo 3.2ish]

Thanks, all going into the hat

haha, I have a kill switch on the ignition and as I slump over it turns the car off and applies the brakes