Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Big fan of the site, first time posting on the forum, hope I'm in the right spot.

I recently purchased an R33 GTR S1 (from an SAU member) and last week had the steering wheel replaced with another stock wheel, as the old one was very worn.

I am now experiencing the dreaded flashing air bag light...

I have spent many afternoons researching the door switch re-set tricks, and have tried each instruction I could find a dozen times, but the light just keeps flashing. (Consistent short flashes)

I even got so desperate that I called Nissan willing to hand over some money to check/clear the fault, but was promptly told that, being an import, they won't even touch it.(?)

Has anyone experienced this with an R33 GTR and, if so, what worked to fix it?

From what I have read, the door switch re-set has worked for many others but I couldn't find any that specifically referenced R33 GTR - most of the positive results I could find online were for R33 Gtst or R34 Gtt.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Or, if anyone is in the Brisbane/Ipswich area (I am in Springfield Lakes) and wants to have a crack at it, I would be more than happy to pay you the $75 I would have paid Nissan if you can clear it. (Without removing the bulb :)

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448512-r33-gtr-flashing-airbag-light-help/
Share on other sites

I haven't read the door switch reset, but knowing alot about airbag systems & how they work, it looks like you have a clockspring coil issue or an airbag issue.

Q1: Did YOU replace the steering wheel or pay a shop to? If you did it, did you disconnect BOTH battery terminals & wait 5 minutes for the system to dicharge voltage BEFORE disconnecting any airbag plugs?

Q2: Did you use the same airbag, or fit one that came with the replacement wheel?

Q3: Was care taken with the clockspring coil, e.g. not turned?

Airbag systems are critical systems that operate on resistance. Usually anything above 4 ohms is considered too high & the component should be replaced.

Hi 533 RYC,

Thanks for your reply.

In answer to your questions:

I paid a shop to do it, so unfortunately am not sure how it was done.

The same airbag that was on the original wheel (no light before) was put back on. The airbag on the replacement wheel had the module removed so couldn't be used.

As I didn't do the work, I'm not sure if care was taken with the clock spring coil. Is there any way of checking if it had been turned without taking the wheel off again?

From what I have read, it is VERY common on skylines for the airbag light to flash after the battery is disconnected and/or the steering wheel removed. Apparently mostly fixable by doing that door switch re-set, however it would seem either not in my case, or I'm doing the reset incorrectly.

I have also read that, if there is an actual issue, the light will flash in different patterns in order to enable you to "read" the problem code, or just stay on. I cant find anywhere that details what the patterns are or mean, but mine is just consistent shortish flashes, no change.

Is there a way to check if it is a resistance issue?

  • 3 weeks later...

Still unable to fix the flashing airbag light problem, any chance anyone has a scan tool or knows a work shop that can plug in to read/clear the fault? Any where in the Gold Coast, Brisbane, Ipswich or Sunshine Coast areas. If you have a scan tool and was willing to check it obviously I would come to you and pay you for your time.

Damn if you were In Sydney I could have helped.

It's most likely the guy you paid removed the airbag then turn the keys to ignition. Now the airbag module expects an airbag, because there isn't one it has now recorded a fault on the SRS airbag module.

Two ways to fix this, replace the module OR delete the fault/crash history on the module.

Clearly the guy changing it had no idea on what he/she was doing.

Thanks for the replies guys.

For replacement of the module, as far as I know the module in the S1 R33s are in the wheel itself, which is the reason for it being so large (changed in the S2s onwards). Not ruling out changing it if it is the problem, but would love to get a scan on it first to confirm if that was the issue.

To be honest I wouldn't rule out a drive to Sydney to scan/fix it as it is incredibly annoying!! The worst part is that apparently it is very common for the light to flash after the battery is disconnected or flat. From what I have read this is normally fixed with by doing the door switch reset procedure but I can't even get it to go into diagnostic mode by following the steps...

Hoping that someone local might be able to help. (Thanks for the offer johnnilicte, like I said wouldn't rule out the drive at the moment ha ha).

If I was to get an aftermarket ecu (looking at doing some mods done the track anyway) does anyone know if it could be scanned using the scan tool for the aftermarket ecu? I have however read the the aibags operate independently of the ecu, which is why an ecu reset wouldn't fix it...

SRS Airbag module is separate to the engine ECU, so that's out of the question unfortunately.

If you search online, I'm sure there are mobile airbag specialists that will come out to you :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Damn it, I was at work last night, and stayed in a room there during the storm with the car outside, but undercover, I just went downstairs and well....there was a large steel locker that has come from some place last night, it wasn't anywhere I could see yesterday, and yeap, it landed on the fraking car....of course it did..... LOL So, I'll need to take it back for paint and panel, luckily it was only the boot that took the hit, so it could have been worse Serves me right for staying at work and getting on the cans with some of the boys
    • Yeah, really happy with how it all turned out As for aftermarket lip, nah, I'm not really a fan for practically reasons on a street car that gets driven everywhere  I did have the full lower kit on my 2015 STI, but found the front lip scrapped alot, even at stock 4x4ish ride height As the NC sits now, with the lowest point of the car at 110mm, so just legal, some steep driveways and steep speed humps will still "just" scrap those little plastic OEM air dam thingies on the undertray just before the front wheels
    • Here's one I help build and tuned a decade ago, Garrett  GTX3071R Gen 1, T3 twin scroll 0.83 rear housing. Went from larger 272 cams down to smaller Tomei Poncams to help with the low end. S13 non VCT motor. Car was purpose built for the track, hence low down was the focus. Note the actual dyno chart shows lower boost, however the EBC and boost gauge showed 1.9Bar (Ignore the torque, I was young and didn't know how to set derived torque)  
    • I’m doing some side developments on SR20det S13 engines, its one my hobby cars used it to compare flow capacity of some smaller size wheels. SR20det is one of another JDM legendary engines I'm sure there are plenty of SR enthusiasts on this forum, I will share results some common turbo configurations here. a quick run down of what the car is: Wide body 180sx Type X with black top engine (blue). It has: Stock bottom end Haltech 1500 ECU 5-0 motorsports trigger kit Kelford SR20DET Beehive Spring with Titanium Retainers Kelford Cams SR20DET S13 188-B 268/272 Cams G25-660 Turbocharger in T2 .64 rear housing internally gated ARP Head studs MLS head gasket 1000CC ID injectors Walbro 450L Fuel pump Front mount cooler kit JJR’s 3 inches turbo back exhaust (its too short for the 180sx it had to be extended) Pump 98 fuel Hub Dyno tune So far made 270rwkws at 22psi full boost by 4500RPM. Engine is very knock limited hence a pretty bad looking top end. From previous experiences it seems like SR20dets are happier with bigger size turbine, some thing like a GT30 would make way better top end, but on same time response is lost. It won't be a problem with S15 VCT engines. I'll be testing alternative turbine housing, turbine wheel and possibly dump pipe options for extra flow to resolve the problem and of course E85 would resolve all the issues.            
    • Awesome writeup and details. Thanks for sharing the story so far. I can relate to parts of it with my previous car and some of the issues I had to deal with.
×
×
  • Create New...