R34 Gtt Brake Improvement Without Breaking The Bank

[GTSBoy]

There will be a certain amount of wobble in the rotor itself and a certain amount in the hub etc. The idea is to put them together so that they cancel each other out rather than re-inforce each other, is all. If there's not a lot of run out in either, then you won't see much in any orientation. If there's a lot of runout in one but none in the other, then again, it won't matter which way you put them together. If they each have some runout, then minimising is better than maximising.

[warps]

You need to use a dial indicator for this. I think that the standard allowance is 0.1mm (0.004" for us old blokes). You won't pick that up by eye.

It's a good practice, as it will tell you whether there's any crap / high spots under your rotor. I've found that what looked like a clean mounting surface had small metal filings on it, giving runout. After a bit of cleaning I got it to within the spec pretty easily

I know that a lot of people don't bother with this, but like anything, done properly it is just another way to eliminate possible problems down the track.

[V28VX37]

Rotors and pads are in, so far so good. I'll get the lines and fluid done at a shop next week so they can double check the torque of the bolts etc.

I put all the shims back in exactly as they were after a good clean, they were filthy. I had baked my previous pads (Intima SS) pretty well and the inner shims were stuck on... They're still not pretty even after the clean - see below - do you reckon I should get a new set? If so, where?

[GTSBoy]

A good spray with anti-squeal goo and they'll probably be fine.

[V28VX37]

A good spray with anti-squeal goo and they'll probably be fine.

Thanks. I put them in as is, so far there's no squeal in the first 30 kms or so, during or after the bedding procedure.

The main thing I was wondering is if the corroded surface will cause slightly uneven pressure on the pad but it's probably fine.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

A1RM and track don't mix, I had massive brake fade by the 3rd lap at Wakefield Park and subsequently came off the track.

A daily and very light track work mad I suggest is Intima SR. Quiet, and outperformed the QFM pads for thr same price.

For a car that never hits the track I don't see any need for slotted rotors, master cylinder stoppers or braided brake lines.

Good stock rotors, fresh fluid and decent pads are all you need.

I find people go a little all out for just a street car, understand some like it but sometimes I see a thread like this pop up and people bag out the stock brakes and go full retard not half retard on correcting a problem which wasn't a problem to begin with.

Just my input

[Ben C34]

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

I recently went for a drive in the high country and it appears that the stock brakes on my GTT can't quite match 275rwkw, surprise.

Not sure if that statement is valid... I have a R33 with smaller brake rotors @ 296mm vs. yours which are 310mm.. Caliper wise we are the same and power wise I'm about 340kW.

My brakes are stock, my rotors are stock, my brake lines are stock, don't have any master cylinder stropper and they seem fine on all road conditions, even on the track they're fine up to about lap 6/7 that's when they fade.

In my opinion, poor braking is due to these things (at a high level):

• Poor pad choice
• Old fluid
• Crappy tyres
• Poor suspension setup, i.e. no weight transfer from stupidly stiff springs and/or poor damper choice/settings

[V28VX37]

Not sure if that statement is valid... I have a R33 with smaller brake rotors @ 296mm vs. yours which are 310mm.. Caliper wise we are the same and power wise I'm about 340kW.

My brakes are stock, my rotors are stock, my brake lines are stock, don't have any master cylinder stropper and they seem fine on all road conditions, even on the track they're fine up to about lap 6/7 that's when they fade.

In my opinion, poor braking is due to these things (at a high level):

• Poor pad choice
• Old fluid
• Crappy tyres
• Poor suspension setup, i.e. no weight transfer from stupidly stiff springs and/or poor damper choice/settings

I had original rotors with heaps of meat, relatively fresh fluid, good new tyres and good suspension setup. The pads however were completely baked after that drive (Intima SS). The brakes faded severely during the run and I also got quite a bit of vibration that I'm guessing was from the pads having caked onto the rotors. The vibration went away later in normal driving.

I'm getting the lines done today and the new setup will be complete, will report back on how it goes.

[Roy]

Try removing the backing plates. 90% of people find a far nicer pedal as the old backing plates take up that little bit of early pedal travel compressing them more than you actually get in pad travel to stop the car. So result in often a spongy pedal

[GTSBoy]

What do you mean "backing plates"? Do you mean the anti-squeal shims?

[MrStabby]

A1RM and track don't mix, I had massive brake fade by the 3rd lap at Wakefield Park and subsequently came off the track.

Over-generalised statement is over-generalised. A1RMs were fine for me doing 1:11s at wakie. How much pad you need depends on many things. eg: power, weight, brake size, brake cooling, cornering ability, driving style etc etc. Sure, A1RMs are a crossover pad (that is, between a street and a track pad), but if that's all you need they will work well.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Over-generalised statement is over-generalised. A1RMs were fine for me doing 1:11s at wakie. How much pad you need depends on many things. eg: power, weight, brake size, brake cooling, cornering ability, driving style etc etc. Sure, A1RMs are a crossover pad (that is, between a street and a track pad), but if that's all you need they will work well.

You sound offended, I apologise if I've offended you - however my intent was not to.

I am speaking from experience, also my close mates all have had the same experience as I have.

[MrStabby]

You sound offended, I apologise if I've offended you - however my intent was not to.

I am speaking from experience, also my close mates all have had the same experience as I have.

Nah, not offended just offering my experience. I see you have 340kw + 296mm rotors so you're pushing your brakes hard. Makes sense you'll need a full track pad with that combo. I'm 305kw + the 330mm chinese kit + UAS air deflectors, so dont need as much pad.

[XKLABA]

I have the A1RMs alround on my 34 and did 8 laps of EC South before the fuel got hot and had to come off, but brakes where still going fine, but that's with 6 piston APs on a 355mm disc up front and 4 piston APs on a 343mm disc out back

[PN-Mad]

I've used A1RMs on the track with good results too. I've never had them fade while on the track, and that was down to a 1:07 at wakie. Eastern Creek was much harder on brakes, but they still did fine. Would I smash out 8 laps on them? No.

I pulled them out and didn't like the look of them. Coming away from the backing, and big chunks coming out/away. Went to the Winmax W5 which I haven't had the chance to try out yet.

I think it very much depends on the longitudinal grip you can generate from your tyres. More grip they generate, the harder the brakes can work.

[owen1r]

Had the following setup for a local track day -

- T3 Slotted Rotors F+R

- Braided Lines

- Nulon Dot 4 Fluid

- A1RM Pads

Couldn't be happier, no brake fade whatsoever but it wasn't a very fast circuit. Would recommend!

[V28VX37]

Just in case anyone else is looking to do this, here's the cost breakdown including delivery (late 2014):

• $662 - DBA T3 4000 Club Spec slotted rotors (Vic Performance Parts on eBay)
• $164 - Remsa pads (GSL RallySport)
• $178.45 - HEL braided lines (HEL on eBay)
• $70 - Brake master cylinder stopper (Gumtree)
• $17.96 - 2 x Nulon Xtreme Performance Super Dot 4 fluid (SuperCheap Auto)

Total $1,092.41 plus labour to fit braided lines and change fluid (I wanted to leave that to the experts). Not too bad for brake improvement on a budget.

[Chris32]

How you finding your setup after a month mate?

[MrStabby]

Re the anti-squeal shims, the ones on my GTR have two thin plates which sort of clip together, whereas i notice in your pix there's only one. So, GTT owners, should he have one or two plates per pad?