Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtt Brake Improvement Without Breaking The Bank


Recommended Posts

4 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I highly doubt the A1RM are rated up to 780 deg. C.. if so why the heck do they crumble like a cookie on the track and the likes of Intima SR and Project MU HC+ / HC800 pull up fine - and both are rated much lower.

The 780C came from this QFM page: http://qfm.com.au/page/6/Performance_Range

3 hours ago, admS15 said:

I just finished off my first set of a1rm at Winton yesterday. Copped solid abuse for six sessions from start to finish, no cool down laps, last session was 10 laps and best lap of the day was on that lap. Pads where 50% at start of the day, didn't crumble but wore them right down. The rears where qfm hpx and they didn't like that treatment, they ended on just about metal on metal. In saying all that, at more demanding tracks like sandown, I don't think they will go too well. They are ok for the not so serious track car but it's the old saying, you get what you pay for and since I got another set for $60 for the front, I have put another set on the front. I measured the disc and compared to the measurement I took when they originally went on and the wear was 0.6mm. I thought that was ok. 4 track days, 1 set of pads, 1 set of tyres and 0.6mm of disc. Budget racing brahemoji3.png

Thanks, good to know!

I need something that can take the Sandown 200->90km/h punishment down the front straight repeatedly, and I'm tossing between Intima SR or Forza FP3 as a step up from Remsa.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I got some R33 GT-R OEM brake ducts off a forum member (thanks!).

I went to measure them tonight and they're pretty hefty, the height is 50mm. I'm already height challenged in the front so mounting these beneath the undertray/liner is most likely not an option..

Does anyone run similar brake ducts in their R34 (GTT or GTR)? Is there any chance to squeeze these above the liner somehow?
Otherwise I might have to set up vents and soft ducting from the fog light openings. It's a series 1 front bar.

29285537045_e8a63b0523.jpg

29206908951_9a68e0596d.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I just finished fabricating some front brake air guides over the weekend, made out of 0.9mm galvanised steel. The design is largely inspired by the UAS ones (thanks dan.1337 for the photo and link!) but also looking at the OEM GT-R V-Spec ones. The most time consuming part was testing a number of prototypes at varying levels of lock and suspension compression to ensure that everything clears at all times.

What do you guys reckon, should I make some for the rears too? I cooked my 650C pads in all corners last track day (granted not enough cool down laps). I have since had the rear heat shields removed too, which hopefully cools rotors more evenly but will probably heat up drive shafts/boots/suspension components more now...

Also the R33 front brake ducts won't clear at my ride height so I'm thinking of adding just some rubber 'fins' on the undertray to channel more air towards the air guides. Might be an overkill.

...

Here's some photos of the front brake air guides (car jacked up, suspension fully expanded), yet to be painted:

Front left with steering straight

29181240114_57fd470ef8_n.jpg

29181239684_9ed91b06b0_n.jpg

Front left with full lock in

29181239294_675032e74a_n.jpg

Front left with full lock out

29181238494_d62ed8873f_n.jpg

29696117682_7f6cbd79d1_n.jpg

...

Rear right with no heat shield

The prospective air guide would follow the curve of the lower control arm edge I imagine and feed into the small gap between inner edge of the rotor and the handbrake assembly?

29181237934_8209379537_n.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, admS15 said:

Nice diy there. They turned out quite well. Good workemoji106.png

Thanks man! A lot of the ones you see around tend to cool the disc face, I like the UAS style as it feeds inside the disc to allow the vanes to vent more effectively.

Also quick tip for anyone wanting to give this a go: the jigsaw with a metal cutting blade was a revelation after initial struggles with tin snips...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

that's really cool!

did you just use those U bracket things (those brackets to hold up conduit) to attach it?


Lol :)

Yes three mounting points: 8mm bolt at the hot end, widened 25mm conduit bracket in the middle, wide cable tie in front. I'll try to get a photo from the back later.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, V28VX37 said:

Yes three mounting points: 8mm bolt at the hot end, widened 25mm conduit bracket in the middle, wide cable tie in front. I'll try to get a photo from the back later.

Here's how the front right looks from the inside, you can see the three mounting points:

29214831274_a331be8b78_n.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Or maybe someone can scan them and produce them on a 3D printer.

Could work but probably over-engineered :) It's just a flat sheet cut up to right dimensions and bent. I might look at doing a template if these work at Sandown next week ;)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Both front and rear air guides went well at Sandown today, with no ill effects. No brake fade but I didn't get any good runs in either as I had to nurse the car, pretty sure the head gasket is gone :/

Here's the rear left mounted:

29745318780_6c8ac931b1.jpg

29745318980_49cd30dc88.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Much less twat-tastic. CF wheels are too garish for civilised use.
    • From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
×
×
  • Create New...