Jump to content
SAU Community

2000 R34 Gtr V-Spec Parts Interior Exterior Sydney


Recommended Posts

R34 gtr windscreens front and rear $400 each, genuine.

rear quarter windows $300 each

will fit gtt 2door also

doors with window and window reg $350 each

mirrors $200 each

door handles $50 each

door cards front and rear good condition $700 the lot

aircon condenser no leaks $100

thermal fan $70

xenon headlights $1000

front quarters $600

ganador titanium exhaust has a big dent but could be cut and repaired $300

fiberglass bonnet with pins, damaged secondary lock but not needed with the pins $400

genuine c-west body kit rear bar and side skirts $1500

centre console with carbon material lid $200

glove box $100

gearstick surround and radio surround $400

guage cluster with 70xxx odd kms $600

full interior carpet in good nick just needs a clean $400

Floor mats $300

fuse box with all fuses $70

dash with side vents $200

radiator support ready for some repairs, pretty sure its the same as gtt $200

have pretty much all the seals, pm what you're after $50 each

genuine carbon rear diffuser, not sure what to price this at, throw me some offers, considering keeping it unless its worth something stupid.

all prices reasonably negotiable

pickup western Sydney 2146

post-69199-0-18101000-1410858258_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-47966900-1410858293_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-76167600-1410858330_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-51794000-1410858364_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-94714300-1410858400_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-31000600-1410858434_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-20334200-1410858468_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-33330200-1410858502_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-28559100-1410858537_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-56467000-1410858576_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-31766900-1410858592_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-72623700-1410858610_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-40751200-1410858630_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-20931300-1410858691_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-10326600-1410858834_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-07518900-1410858843_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Unless there's something particular about the Greddy manifold's injector holes that I'm not aware of, those injetcors look to be totally wrong. They would absolutely want to be spaced up to get those long snouts out of the runner. Which, I think, is not usually the way that that problem is solved. I think the problem is solved by using the correct injectors, which would be much more like what Andrew posted.
    • Thanks for the reply, So i've continued playing around, and fitted the injector adaptors onto the injector, the fuel rail is not able to be mounted now as the injectors sit a bit further out. I suppose the point of the adaptors is so that the injector nozzle isn't so deep into the intake? I suppose 1mm extra on the o-ring would do it but still can't mount the rail onto the intake haha. Waiting on a reply from Aeroflow I'm sure there's something stupid that I'm missing...
    • EMJ33 or EJM33 - west end
    • I have a radium fuel rail on my Greddy manifold and used the supplied radium fuel injector to manifold adapters (The round green things pictured). I did always wonder if you could just go ahead and use the second lower hole like you're doing... Wouldn't thicker o-rings solve your issue?    
    • From what I've seen and experienced first hand with those powder extinguishers, they're good to use to break a window and escape the car, and half the time then do f**k all to stop a fire. You just need much more than 1KG worth of powder. Not to mention, half the time it's an engine bay fire, and you can't easily, and do not want to completely open the bonnet, so you're left pretending to be an American Infantry... Spray and Pray baby!   And then 100% that shit is really destructive afterwards!   Realistically, those little ones at a race track might help you keep the fire from growing and give the fire marshal / truck a chance to actually get to you with their multiple large bottles.   For a road car, these days, prepare to deboard as quickly as humanly possible, and move to safety. Allow insurance to fix replace it (unless it's like a rare classic etc, then do nearly everything possible to save it!) Keep the little extinguisher with you to help protect other things around you from burning while you stand there singing "How can we sleep while our beds are burning?"   Secondly, powder extinguishers I freaking hate for indoor use, (this isn't really relevant to a car) as you will get a powder fog around you, and it can be disorientating.   When I did fire training when at BlueScope Steel, they have (had?) their own fire brigade on site. We did all the training, and at the end we were told, "If it's an indoor fire, and you need to use a powder extinguisher, we as the fire brigade would rather you just exit the building, you're more likely to get lost in the smoke and powder fog than do much help, so just GTFO" And pretty much that was what they said for most other fires too, grab extinguisher, if it's much more than paper in a bin fire, use extinguisher to get you and others out of the building to safety...   Part of me wishes when my Skyline caught alight many moons ago, I let insurance sort it out, instead of putting the fire out... part of me now says "But I've saved a classic before it was a classic!"
×
×
  • Create New...