S1 Stagea Emanage Blue

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Ive nearly decided on one of these things. Doesn't look like a type 6 nistune board is likely to be found any time soon.

I have attached a pin diagram which I found on the forum, the installation seems fairly straightforward.

Anyhow I still have a few questions about how it operates:

In terms of controlling ignition, does it intercept the triggering of the ignition from the stock ECU, then delay or advance the signal, or does it have its own ignition maps (it seems possible since it has AFM and RPM signals from the harness).

This seems relevant to maintaining ignition retarding on gear changes, even though the timing might be slightly advanced (ie gear changes are normally 0 degrees, which may be advanced to 5-10 degrees on heavy throttle - still better than no ignition retarding at all)

Are diodes still required? Stories of the emanage burning out coils are old, but still concerning.

Are the injectors handled in a similar way? From reading the literature, my understanding is that it reads the rising edge of a signal from the stock ECU (ie when the injector turns on) then the emanage determines the pulse width. I have read the phrase "adds pulse width", though if my understanding is correct, it could also remove fuel to correct for richness.

Otherwise does it simply bend the AFM signal being sent to the ECU? This seems the least controllable way since the ECU will also vary the timing with the amount of fuel injected.

WGC34_Series_1___STAGEA_RB25DET_Auto_ECU_Pinout_translated.xls

[scotty nm35]

If you are heading down the Emanage route, I suggest you look at the Emanage Ultimate over the Blue, as the Blue only adds. The latest revisions will be fine, don't buy second hand.

[Race__24]

You can subtract fuel with the emanage blue. It supports larger injectors so it must reduce the duration for it to do that. Worst case would be to set the injectors larger than they are to make the duration shorter, then bring the duration back up via the injection map. The maps all add and subtract from the CPU output. If the CPU is outputting a duty cycle of 10% and you add 10%, the new duty cycle will be 11%.

[zoomzoom]

If you are heading down the Emanage route, I suggest you look at the Emanage Ultimate over the Blue, as the Blue only adds. The latest revisions will be fine, don't buy second hand.

Do you mean the latest revisions will solve the ignition problem?

This seems like quite a major issue, and I can't really find a definite answer to ensure the safety of the coils.

[scotty nm35]

Can you subtract timing though? I am only going by what my tuner told me.

Yes, the earlier emanage ignition output transistors had issues from my research. I would go for a current board revision if possible.

[Race__24]

Yes, I'm pretty sure you can subtract timing too, it's been a while since I've played with mine. A lot of the time tuners don't understand how they work, I had a tune once and the guy didn't even adjust the injection map, just played with the AFM output, won't be going back there.

[Trex]

Last time i read about it, it was that the blue was 'like' having a safc and sitc. It can retard advance timing and alter the afm.

Ultimate can do injector and ignition?

[scotty nm35]

Yes, but it only adds or subtracts from the factory map, which means the tuner needs to leave 4 odd degrees of safety, just incase the stock ecu adds timing. It works well to a point, but you can't really lean on the tune without a standalone.

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God this stuff is doing my head in. I might just have to fork out for an adaptronic in the end.

Basically I have a hypergear highflow (with the 21u? exhaust housing), MV shift kit and full 3 inch exhaust sorted. I don't feel like I am getting my money's worth out of the turbo or exhaust, since it feels very sluggish under boost in the mid range.

My main concern about the full standalone (apart from the price, but it costs what it costs) is that there is no timing retard on gear changes, and it will inject and ignite cylinders in pairs rather than individually. That may or may not be a big deal, but I am worried about sacrificing economy or low rpm smoothness. Also when I purchased the shift kit, the guy at MV said that the ignition retarding issue would no longer be a concern. Im sure the shift kit decreases the wear on clutches when shifting, but shifting under full load still seems like a bad thing.

[scotty nm35]

Shifting under full load is the best.

You are correct, the larger turbo will make it drive like crap. Any tuning solution will reel back the lag and increase power, but there are drawbacks with any solution. The EMU will allow the stock ecu to control everything as it does now, this is great for sub 250kw power figures, any more and you will need the standalone imo.

Pairing the injectors isn't a big deal, as long as they are the correct two. Get the order wrong and you will be spraying the fuel onto the back of a closed valve.