Replacing R34 Diff Bushes What's Involved

[89CAL]

super pro ones look good if you are willing to press/knock the bush back in (as it looks press fit)

the others are easier. I'd go whiteline personally. I rate their stuff very highly. Not to say the Nolethane stuff isnt any good though. After all I do run those bushes in my rear diff mounts. I have some diff noise at 60km/h and for some reason when it rains it gets a bit clicky/clunky (noise goes away once it drys out)

[V28VX37]

super pro ones look good if you are willing to press/knock the bush back in (as it looks press fit)

...

The SPF one doesn't look too bad based on the instructions, looks it can be pulled in with a booker rod:

[89CAL]

If you can be bothered I would get them. If you want an easier install then the others still work fine. But I feel like pressed in bushes will always be better then bushes that are compressed to get a tight fit

[V28VX37]

Had a field day shopping online and ordered the following, I'll keep you posted how it goes...

SuperPro SPF2637K

SuperPro SPF3775K

Total HICAS Eliminator Kit

AmPro Pitman Arm Puller

[V28VX37]

Quick question, with the diff out can the subframe be dropped a little bit without removing all the stuff hanging off it (arms, hub etc.)? I've got this cool C clamp tool with drifts but it won't quite fit in the rear as the subframe sits so close to the floor.

Made a start today, took the exhaust, HICAS arms and centre off. The HICAS ball joints are completely stuffed. Next up will try to get the ball joints out as per these instructions, fingers crossed...

[GTSBoy]

The subframe can be dropped a bit. Be aware of the earth straps and the brake lines and cables.

[89CAL]

Are you talking about the subframe collars with the slots cut in them? I installed mine without removing anything from what I can remember. Just Jacked the car up, supported it somewhere suitable (obviously nothing on the subframe, Then put a jack under the diff, undid the bolts and slowly lowered it just enough to get the collars in.

Think one of these days I will pull my subframe out and do all the bushes properly. The collars don't seem to have done alot for me

[V28VX37]

Are you talking about the subframe collars with the slots cut in them? I installed mine without removing anything from what I can remember. Just Jacked the car up, supported it somewhere suitable (obviously nothing on the subframe, Then put a jack under the diff, undid the bolts and slowly lowered it just enough to get the collars in.

Think one of these days I will pull my subframe out and do all the bushes properly. The collars don't seem to have done alot for me

I was referring to the four corners of the subframe i.e. dropping it just a little bit for better access to the upper (rear side) diff bushes. I've got a big C clamp and some big drifts so I'm hoping to push them out on the car rather than cutting them.

Tonight's update, the HICAS ball joints are out and the new Eliminator bushes are in. I'll leave the arms out until I've had a go at the diff.

Btw see below for the 21pc Universal Ball Joint Separator kit I got from Radum in Tullamarine, it's not bad value at $150. The ball joints came out very easily with this, the Pitman Arm Puller, a butane torch and a few random bits and bobs I had lying around the garage.

[89CAL]

oh i see what you mean, you want to push the bushes out. I saw C clamp and assumed you were doing subframe collars.

Be real interested to know if you can remove the bushes without taking the subframe all the way out. I'd like to do this

[GTSBoy]

Took a bit of force on a 10t press to get mine out. I'm not confident it will be fun under the car.

[hardsteppa]

^^^that's what i'm thinking. Wish you all the best with it but could really be a subframe out job. Let us know how you go with it and the diff rear bushes

[V28VX37]

Diff is out, prick of a job. I've dropped the rear of the subframe a bit but unfortunately it looks like there's not quite enough clearance still, might have to think of a plan B. And if that doesn't work I'll just have to cut the old diff rear bushes out..

Edited September 30, 2014 by V28VX37

[V28VX37]

Took a bit of force on a 10t press to get mine out. I'm not confident it will be fun under the car.

^^^that's what i'm thinking. Wish you all the best with it but could really be a subframe out job. Let us know how you go with it and the diff rear bushes

I'm happy to report that the old bushes are successfully out, very very tedious but it can be done and without cutting The Radum kit worked a treat, it's got perfect size drifts for this job. I had get a separate steel plate to press against and to grind a bit off the C clamp as it would get close enough otherwise. I might post a proper write-up once the car is back together.

Now, I was going start pushing the SuperPro SPF3775K ones in but I thought I'd measure them first, found some issues:

• The outer diameter is 0.2-0.3 mm more than the OEM ones. Given how hard it was to get the originals out I'm not confident that these will go in - nor do I want to wreck the subframe.
• The diff bolt hole is 17.2mm instead of the OEM's 15.1mm - this is way off!
• Lastly, these are almost 2mm longer than OEM..

I think I'm going to go Whiteline/Nolathane instead just to save some headache.

Does anyone know a stockist in inner Melbourne that's open Saturdays??

[SiR_RB]

Great write up. Let us know how you go

I'm about to attempt to remove and replace my hicas ball joints. Just a question though, the puller you used to pull them out, the arms are not adjustable, are they available in specific sizes ? Where did you get it from?

[89CAL]

Id talk to super pro about it. Im convinced those style bushes would be better. Maybe you were sold the wrong part or there has been a bad batch produced. Either way you should get free replacements

[V28VX37]

Great write up. Let us know how you go

I'm about to attempt to remove and replace my hicas ball joints. Just a question though, the puller you used to pull them out, the arms are not adjustable, are they available in specific sizes ? Where did you get it from?

Thanks mate. You're right, the puller arms are not adjustable, this is the one I bought off eBay: Ampro Pitman Arm Puller. The jaw opening is 1 5/16" or 33.34mm. I also came across a Kincrome one that was a touch smaller, 27mm (1.1/16"), don't get that one. There are also a number of larger three jawed pullers, not sure if they'd work and they won't fit in the space available anyway unless you pull out the drive shafts.

The one trouble you're going to have still is that the ball joint sleeve collar is 35mm (see below for a pic), which means that the puller jaw will not sit properly against the arm. You've got two options:

1. Grind a tiny bit off the collar as per this thread.
2. First use a ball joint set like the Radum one to crack and push the bush out a bit. Once the Pitman Puller jaw fits under the collar, move onto using that.

To complicate this further, the Radum set doesn't have a drift quite the right size to fit around the collar. I ended up using a ring from my auto gearbox leftover parts that fit perfectly around the collar and under a drift that would have been too big otherwise.

If you're planning on installing a new ball joint you won't be able to use the Pitman Arm Puller to push it back in, you'll need a big C clamp (similar to the Radum one) and a right size drift/socket to push plus some kind of a receiver right on the opposite side as the rear of the ball joint protrudes a bit.

It's a messy and time consuming job and you definitely want to have the right tools before you start. Once you start reaching for the sledgehammer and sockets you're doing it wrong

I'm still glad I gave it a go, saved me pulling the hubs off the car, an even bigger job...

[V28VX37]

Id talk to super pro about it. Im convinced those style bushes would be better. Maybe you were sold the wrong part or there has been a bad batch produced. Either way you should get free replacements

Yeah Callan I will, however I don't want to have the car off the road for yet another week whilst sorting this out so I've ordered a set of Nolathane 49162, same ones as you're running.

SuperPro is an OEM style bush, the main thing I like about it is that it supports the diff in every direction. The one issue I can see with the Nolathane/Whiteline design (see below for installation diagram) is that there's no rear side support on the diff on acceleration so all the force will be on the two front bolts and bushes.

However, I thought about this some more and my theory is that on acceleration the diff is 'compressed' between the drive shafts/wheels and the tail shaft, so in effect the drive shafts provide rear side support, does this sound right?

Anyhow, here's some more measurements:

• Subframe hole inner diameter approximately 58.2mm
• OEM steel sleeved bush outer diameter 58.7-58.8mm
• SuperPro steel sleeved bush outer diameter 59.0-59.1mm

I really can't be arsed trying to shoehorn the SuperPros in, especially since I don't like the 2mm slack in the bolt hole either.

^^^ Instructions for Nolathane 49162

Edited October 5, 2014 by V28VX37

[89CAL]

Post up if you find you get some clunks when its wet, make sure you post it here. Im interested to seen if it is a nolethane thing

[V28VX37]

Will do, definitely. Hope not though

[V28VX37]

I only just realised now that Callan had already posted a diff bush replacement mini how-to here - thanks! The photos there are useful in case anyone else is thinking about doing this.